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-   -   B44.1 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/441523-b44-1-thread.html)

20 SMOKE 09-09-2012 05:29 AM


Originally Posted by MOmo (Post 11189465)
So I assembled my Diffs for the 44.1.

I build it using Ceramic balls from Acer in both thrust and Diff. I have built B4 diffs, and it seems much smoother. This one feels gritty. Its not smooth, I used a fair amount of Diff lube, but it still doesn't feel right.

I've used steel balls in the past, this is the first time using ceramic, so I have nothing to compare it to.


Also, where is everyone setting the tightness of the thrust nut in the diff?



MOmo

i have ceramic in mine but i don't have them in the thrust.did you sand all the rings mine are smooth.i set mine about a HR tighter then stock

UN4RACING 09-09-2012 06:32 AM


Originally Posted by MOmo (Post 11189465)
So I assembled my Diffs for the 44.1.

I build it using Ceramic balls from Acer in both thrust and Diff. I have built B4 diffs, and it seems much smoother. This one feels gritty. Its not smooth, I used a fair amount of Diff lube, but it still doesn't feel right.

I've used steel balls in the past, this is the first time using ceramic, so I have nothing to compare it to.


Also, where is everyone setting the tightness of the thrust nut in the diff?



MOmo

I would take it apart and start over. It should be smooth no matter what balls if its new. Clean it real well and flip the ring. Don't sand the ring though.
I pretty much set my front diff close to factory and the rear just slightly looser.
Break the diff rings in real slow.

EricJ 09-09-2012 11:35 AM


Originally Posted by sneekypete72 (Post 11189806)
I am new to r/c and I just bought a 44.1 and the hobby shop I bought the kit off sold me a team Orion 4 pole motor 4100kv it's a neon 14bl motor reading back through your posts I see this motor is not suitable for the car am I understanding this right?

Yes, you're understanding this right. Since you're new, you probably want a 13.5 or 10.5, both of which are probably more speed/power than you can handle with this vehicle...

rigor 09-09-2012 11:51 AM


Originally Posted by sneekypete72 (Post 11189806)
I am new to r/c and I just bought a 44.1 and the hobby shop I bought the kit off sold me a team Orion 4 pole motor 4100kv it's a neon 14bl motor reading back through your posts I see this motor is not suitable for the car am I understanding this right?

You'll learn soon that in this hobby, particularly some hobby shops that don't run a track on site, folks just aren't properly informed. That is not a suitable motor for this car. Also, I hate to pile it on you, but a 4WD buggy is going to be tougher to setup, more moving parts and maintenance to worry about, and more fragile as well, compared to a 2WD buggy. If you're new to the hobby and are going to be running on actual tracks setup for racing, I'd get a 13.5 brushless motor, and dial it's max power back to like 80% to start off with. Great car though, and great fun. Best of luck! Take your time, and have patience :)

singlemike 09-10-2012 10:46 AM

I have just built my B44.1 as my first kit.
The car is a blast to work on and drive. I would highly recommend the tbone bumpers while you are learning to drive-they have saved my arms, shocks and axles.

t-bone-racing.net/Brand-A-M/Associated/B44-c34/

Not the sleekest look but they do a great job.
Also- be sure to read through most of this thread. It will take a while but there is a lot of good advice for build, setup, and compatible electronics.

Thanks to all who contribute

singlemike 09-10-2012 10:48 AM

I am curious what the advantages are to big bore shocks. They look kick ass, but is there a large performance upgrade?

RED-LINE M03 09-11-2012 11:42 AM

Just a crazy stupid question but It's on my mind so I'll ask...LOL

Around are are 4wd is pretty slow.

Has anyone ever removed the front axles on a B44.1 and mounted some 2wd buggy fronts and raced it in the 2wd buggy class? The B44.1 still probaly weighs less the the Losi 22 ;)

Yep crazy question....:D

Ivegotklas 09-11-2012 11:55 AM


Originally Posted by RED-LINE M03 (Post 11198832)
Just a crazy stupid question but It's on my mind so I'll ask...LOL

Around are are 4wd is pretty slow.

Has anyone ever removed the front axles on a B44.1 and mounted some 2wd buggy fronts and raced it in the 2wd buggy class? The B44.1 still probaly weighs less the the Losi 22 ;)

Yep crazy question....:D

I have seen a Kyosho 4wd buggy turned into a 2wd buggy. It was on some European site maybe area 52 news.

EricJ 09-11-2012 06:37 PM


Originally Posted by sneekypete72 (Post 11189806)
I am new to r/c and I just bought a 44.1 and the hobby shop I bought the kit off sold me a team Orion 4 pole motor 4100kv it's a neon 14bl motor reading back through your posts I see this motor is not suitable for the car am I understanding this right?

Things I highly recommend:
- Follow directions in this thread for proper diff building and shimming, since the documentation is not correct and outdrives/cases vary.
- Shim to remove slop around bearings.
- If you're using a decent servo (which you really should be - metal gears, fast, high torque, etc), tighten the servo saver more (between .5mm and locked) to get better steering.
- If you run on a high-bite track, try the reversed steering rack mentioned in some setup sheets.
- PTFE tape on the portion of the screws going through steering bushings, and around the bushings themselves (6, total). Removes slop and slows wear.
- Aim for 10-15 degrees inboard on the servo horn, rather than 5-10. This keeps it from hitting your body.
- Rear chassis weight.
- Buy a set of front shocks. Build them and fill one with your usual shock oil. Keep them in your kit in case you break or bend a shock shaft.
- The usual spares: Front Arms, front shock shafts, shock ends, and shock caps.

You might also want to try my "bulletproofing" modifications...
- If you can get a B44 front tower, put it behind the B44.1 tower. You will need longer screws to do this. The bottom screws should be button head, the rest socket head. This should make it essentially impossible to break your front shock tower or end up with a screw you cannot remove. You'll need to trim some of the middle reinforcement from the bumper for this to fit.
- Replace the plastic front shock tower mount with the aluminum version. Transfers more energy from a crash into the front top plate, rather than the weaker plastic front bulkhead.
- Double the rear shock towers. You will need longer screws. Same reason as the front tower doubling, only this one is actually more fragile than the front.
- Use Long RPM ball cups. You'll need to tighten them past where you expect to set them, then back out to the right length. If you don't, they'll pop when you try to adjust them. Yes, this sucks, but they keep your turnbuckles from bending at their weakest point.
- Put button-head screws through all four empty holes on the shock towers (thread into small 4-40 nuts). This will keep the tips of the towers from splintering as quickly/easily.


Originally Posted by singlemike (Post 11194376)
I have just built my B44.1 as my first kit.
The car is a blast to work on and drive. I would highly recommend the tbone bumpers while you are learning to drive-they have saved my arms, shocks and axles.

t-bone-racing.net/Brand-A-M/Associated/B44-c34/

Not the sleekest look but they do a great job.
Also- be sure to read through most of this thread. It will take a while but there is a lot of good advice for build, setup, and compatible electronics.

Thanks to all who contribute

I didn't like the way the rear mounted, but the front is pretty cool looking. Sadly, it didn't protect the arms or shock shafts and seemed to cause the front diff case to strip and break (the bumper transfers more energy from the impact into the weak diff case standoffs). The bumpers are exceptionally tough, though, no denying that.


Originally Posted by RED-LINE M03 (Post 11198832)
Just a crazy stupid question but It's on my mind so I'll ask...LOL

Around are are 4wd is pretty slow.

Has anyone ever removed the front axles on a B44.1 and mounted some 2wd buggy fronts and raced it in the 2wd buggy class? The B44.1 still probaly weighs less the the Losi 22 ;)

Yep crazy question....:D

I've never seen it and couldn't see it working very well. It'd push like crazy no matter what you did to lighten the front. I suspect the front caster block wouldn't be a simple direct-bolt-on to the arms, nor would it have enough angle...

johnbugman 09-16-2012 04:56 PM

slipper mod
 
1 Attachment(s)
so I put in the garolite pads from an old sc10 4x4 spur and man what a difference!!! I barely had the thing tight and i got great slipp in the first 25% of full power then baaam it stuck like a bullet down the straight! It produced good front to rear power transfer as needed. I highly recommend the marcus rc shox garolite pads in exchange for ae pads. plus these thing things dont have any heat fade and last a lifetime!!

UN4RACING 09-16-2012 06:00 PM


Originally Posted by johnbugman (Post 11217599)
so I put in the garolite pads from an old sc10 4x4 spur and man what a difference!!! I barely had the thing tight and i got great slipp in the first 25% of full power then baaam it stuck like a bullet down the straight! It produced good front to rear power transfer as needed. I highly recommend the marcus rc shox garolite pads in exchange for ae pads. plus these thing things dont have any heat fade and last a lifetime!!

How about a link. I will give them a try. I will have to throw the 5.5 back in.

johnbugman 09-16-2012 06:33 PM


Originally Posted by UN4RACING (Post 11217858)
How about a link. I will give them a try. I will have to throw the 5.5 back in.

ok here is a link..... http://www.rcshox.com/ae-b4-44-t4-garodisc/

johnbugman 09-16-2012 06:35 PM

I have also been rockin these dual stage pistons in all my ae rides..... from same manufacturer...... http://www.rcshox.com/ae-b4-44-ft-v2-2-stage/


But the jury is still out on whether these dual stage pistons work on a large 1/8 scale track or not

UN4RACING 09-16-2012 06:43 PM

Thanx. :cool:

johnbugman 09-16-2012 06:48 PM

Like I said big bore shocks where due to come out any day now.....


http://www.teamassociated.com/news/l..._and_SC10GT%21


now we need to boycott super high price.

UN4RACING 09-16-2012 06:51 PM


Originally Posted by johnbugman (Post 11218118)
Like I said big bore shocks where due to come out any day now.....


http://www.teamassociated.com/news/l..._and_SC10GT%21


now we need to boycott super high price.

I'm okay with the price....:nod: I will be getting some once I know what the spring kits will have in them. Sell my V2's and they are even cheaper...:D

20 SMOKE 09-16-2012 06:56 PM


Originally Posted by UN4RACING (Post 11218132)
I'm okay with the price....:nod: I will be getting some once I know what the spring kits will have in them. Sell my V2's and they are even cheaper...:D

i need some v2 for b4/44 so good price hit me up.i'm not doing the BB just yet only springs

UN4RACING 09-16-2012 07:04 PM


Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE (Post 11218153)
i need some v2 for b4/44 so good price hit me up.i'm not doing the BB just yet only springs

Sure thing. I still have not built them. I have been running the B4.1 till the season kicks off. So they will be new if I do it. I will price them right though.

davidfast 09-16-2012 07:15 PM


Originally Posted by johnbugman (Post 11218118)
Like I said big bore shocks where due to come out any day now.....


http://www.teamassociated.com/news/l..._and_SC10GT%21


now we need to boycott super high price.

They are $10 more than the V2 kits which didn't start coming with kits till the .1 versions of all cars. What did you want...free? http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/7480/

johnbugman 09-17-2012 06:15 AM


Originally Posted by davidfast (Post 11218232)
They are $10 more than the V2 kits which didn't start coming with kits till the .1 versions of all cars. What did you want...free? http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/7480/


Nope just don't want to get raped like SC 4x4

Brit_racer 09-17-2012 07:43 AM

With the associated big bore shocks coming out i am hoping someone can sell a big bore spring conversion for the B44.1 or T4.1

I think its going to be a little while before i can convert mine over.

Please message me please if you have some for sale.
__________________

CTRJ 09-17-2012 08:15 AM

You can always use Losi big bore springs with Traxxas retainers. Cheap and works great!



Originally Posted by Brit_racer (Post 11219843)
With the associated big bore shocks coming out i am hoping someone can sell a big bore spring conversion for the B44.1 or T4.1

I think its going to be a little while before i can convert mine over.

Please message me please if you have some for sale.
__________________


Brit_racer 09-17-2012 09:44 AM

thanks CTRJ thats probably what i will do. I just wanted to buy them here first if someone had them doing nothing.

TJMac 09-18-2012 09:14 AM

FYI
 
Tower Hobbies has (for whatever reason) the large partion of the cam motor mount (ASC9801) for $7.16 . It's normally a $29 part. I'm going to pick up two for spares.

EricJ 09-18-2012 11:16 AM


Originally Posted by TJMac (Post 11224534)
Tower Hobbies has (for whatever reason) the large partion of the cam motor mount (ASC9801) for $7.16 . It's normally a $29 part. I'm going to pick up two for spares.

That's really weird, considering the clamp portion is more expensive...

Mind you, if you own a B44 and haven't upgraded it, you probably never will. If you have a B44.1, you have one and will probably never need another.

rigor 09-18-2012 11:22 AM


Originally Posted by TJMac (Post 11224534)
Tower Hobbies has (for whatever reason) the large partion of the cam motor mount (ASC9801) for $7.16 . It's normally a $29 part. I'm going to pick up two for spares.

You got big problems if you somehow manage to damage or bend any portion of the motor mounts; it's likely practically impossible with the chassis design.

TJMac 09-18-2012 06:45 PM


Originally Posted by rigor (Post 11225033)
You got big problems if you somehow manage to damage or bend any portion of the motor mounts; it's likely practically impossible with the chassis design.

Not worried about bending, stripping the threads is another story and for $7, why not just in case.

rigor 09-18-2012 06:56 PM


Originally Posted by TJMac (Post 11226870)
Not worried about bending, stripping the threads is another story and for $7, why not just in case.

Good thinking. I should have thought of that :)

nmdesertracer 09-19-2012 09:41 PM

Heres my b44 converting to a 44.1 . Tekin Rs pro,Reedy 6.5 , Savox 1251. :spidey:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ps3273d113.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ps21867db9.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ps2c1d7fbf.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ps40217f10.jpg

07Forester 09-20-2012 09:11 AM

Can anyone recommend gearing with a 9.5 on an 81t spur?

mjk1210 09-20-2012 09:25 AM


Originally Posted by 07Forester (Post 11233192)
Can anyone recommend gearing with a 9.5 on an 81t spur?

22-25. I would change to a 78 though. moves the motor closer to the center of the car.

rigor 09-20-2012 09:46 AM

An 81T spur is fine; all the pros run it if you look at their set-up sheets. On a 9.5T you can safely start at a 21. I run 19/81 on my 6.5T .

07Forester 09-20-2012 10:06 AM


Originally Posted by mjk1210 (Post 11233258)
22-25. I would change to a 78 though. moves the motor closer to the center of the car.

A 78 even at rc raceway?

rigor 09-20-2012 10:19 AM


Originally Posted by 07Forester (Post 11233413)
A 78 even at rc raceway?

I'm telling you, Cav & Maifield both run the 81 spur; check the AE site, it's totally fine. Try starting at 21/81 with your 9.5T.

nmdesertracer 09-20-2012 06:17 PM

nvm

adamym 09-21-2012 02:15 AM

Hey everyone,
I'm pretty set on a b44.1. But I want to know how it drives compared to a kyosho zx-5 sp2. I drove the kyosho today and didn't quite like the steering...just not enough. Is the steering more agressive on a b44.1? A few other questions I have are:

Is the front capable of running 12mm hexes and is it worth it?

What's a good starting point for a motor? It seems like everyone is running a 6.5, but I'm more involved in club racing.

Last Question: What are the typical parts that break?

Thanks for the replies. Hopefully this will help make the decision easier.

UN4RACING 09-21-2012 04:55 AM


Originally Posted by adamym (Post 11236187)
Hey everyone,
I'm pretty set on a b44.1. But I want to know how it drives compared to a kyosho zx-5 sp2. I drove the kyosho today and didn't quite like the steering...just not enough. Is the steering more agressive on a b44.1? A few other questions I have are:

Is the front capable of running 12mm hexes and is it worth it?

What's a good starting point for a motor? It seems like everyone is running a 6.5, but I'm more involved in club racing.

Last Question: What are the typical parts that break?

Thanks for the replies. Hopefully this will help make the decision easier.

One of the best things about the 44 is it is a steering bandit. Plenty of steering...:nod:

Edit this comment was incorrect...The front already has 12mm. They are 9.5/10.0 not sure?

10.5 thru 6.5 is all good the more you dial it in and the faster you get will best confirm the motor you want. I have even ran a 5.5 on mine.

Some will argue the front end is weak but honestly its not the kit. I have raced the 44 platform for years. Its all driver error on the front end.
Stock up on front shock shafts, caps, eyelets, and a-arms. A couple of sets of gear assemblies and you should be good. Clean driving and you wont need even worry about the front end at all. It takes a pretty serious hit to break it or a just right hit.

mjk1210 09-21-2012 06:02 AM


Originally Posted by rigor (Post 11233449)
I'm telling you, Cav & Maifield both run the 81 spur; check the AE site, it's totally fine. Try starting at 21/81 with your 9.5T.

U r right. It will be fine.

especially if on a smaller track like rc raceway. If u go to a large track u will want taller gears. Or put them in now and dont worry about changing them. Ive run 22/78 for 3 years bnow on tiny tracks and large tracks. Thats why I suggested what I did with a 9.5 for where he will be racing.

toronto_rc 09-21-2012 06:31 AM


Originally Posted by UN4RACING (Post 11236338)
One of the best things about the 44 is it is a steering bandit. Plenty of steering...:nod:

The front already has 12mm on front box stock, you will have to invest in 12mm hexes for the rear if you choose.

I thought the B44 used proprietary 9.5mm front hexes...

79kmc 09-21-2012 06:34 AM

I would stick with the 81 tooth spur gear and gear it correctly i tried the 78 and i didn't like it,with spare parts the only parts i have broken are the front arms and bevel gears cause i didn't have the bevel gears shimmed properly.
I have never broken any shock shafts or anything like that touch wood, but now that i have said that i will probably break something on sunday hopefully not though, and the only other thing i would have a couple of spares would be bevel gears, cause if you don't shim them correctly you will strip them


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