Ok i see what your saying, well im off to the track, hopefully to give a couple durangos the red ass lol

Well, I've decided to go with tekin rs 7.5.
thanks guys~!!!

Guess who got a whoopin tonight??? Thats right allllllll the durango drivers lol

And i did with my slow little viper moter lol i had such a hard time keepin up with those big, bad, tekins and lrps hahhaahahahaaa

i have a 5700 kv in my b44.1 can i go up to a bigger kv motor and not have it get hot?

Hell yea, im running 6.5 viper, i believe its 6800 kv, its stupid fast, came off the track last night at 142 after 10 minutes

losi front 22 rims fit on the 44.1 i did try it out they fit ok

Quick-release battery mod?
 

Right. There's almost nothing not to love about the B44.1. Almost.

I'm getting quite sick of the battery thumb screws though. I'm wishing for a quick-release solution. So far, I've looked for ways to use clips, and that means either going for the old B4 soution with the AE #6929 4-40 socket head screws with a hole in them, or finding some other production battery post or body post with multiple holes in them that will fit in height.

Before I order 7 different parts for test, has anyone seen any smart solutions for this?

Use some 4-40 flat head screws and bling bling washers. You have to unscrew them but it looks cool. I dont take mine out except to balance them after a race.

I love the thumb screws.. :D Not for the ease of use, but you can screw down on your pack and know that its not going to move. Unlike some other retension devices..

Diff Tuning / Breaking in.
 

Is there a thread or page thats already discuss's how to setup a diff. I've seen the building ball diffs for 2 wheel but not for 4 wheel. I know its pretty much the same building wise, but what about setup?

Tune the rear diff first or front? Vice Verse? Slipper clutch keep at 10mm stock length as per setup when tuning or tighten down? I'm new to 4 wheel diff setup. Any input would help.

I havent decided on a ESC motor but its going to be a 6.5t setup, either Orion r10 w/ vortex, LRP v2 TC Spec w/ x12 6.5, Viper VTX10r w/ VTS motor or Tekin RS pro w/ redline. I am doing a little more research and review search on each.

I'm pretty bad when it comes to my diff(s). I set them up as per the instructions then back them off just a touch (the instruction set up seemed a little tight to me) with the front being slightly looser. Then I ignore them until they either feel gritty, or start to slip. Slipper is set to slip for about 2 feet from dead-stop. I don't mess with it too much. Set it and forget it.

Instead of the stock setup (loc-tite the threaded shafts into the posts), only loc-tite the screws through the chassis into the posts. Now loc-tite the thumb nuts on longer 4-40 cap screws. Now use your gold driver to tighten/loosen them into the posts... Worst-case, if you don't have a driver handy, you can still tighten/loosen them with your fingers.

If I had mine handy, I'd take a picture. Basically everyone around here has them set up like this...

whats a good motor to run in the car. i had a 5700 kv it was a tad slow.

About what turn is a 5700kv? I'm running a 8.5 X12 geared 20/81 and it screams. I have a 7.5 VST on order and with similar gearing it should be stupid fast. How do you have your 5700kv geared?