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-   -   B44.1 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/441523-b44-1-thread.html)

Autocratic 05-14-2012 07:37 PM

Oh. Didn't realize those new Inverse wheels where out for the B44 as well. They look nice though. Not sure I like the two-piece design though.

elex300 05-16-2012 03:43 AM

I have a question about how tight the diffs are supposed to be set? I just bought a used kit and rebuilt the diffs. Before I start breaking them in I was wondering how tight you set them? Looking at the manual it says 1/8 back from being fully tight. Is this correct? I just got a little confused looking at there diagram in the manual. It starts at 0 for fully tightened then back off 1/8 but where it would be backed off at the 1/2 turn it says its 1/4:confused::confused. Please clarify that its 1/8 turn from fully tightened.

Eli 05-16-2012 09:15 AM


Originally Posted by Autocratic (Post 10733805)
Oh. Didn't realize those new Inverse wheels where out for the B44 as well. They look nice though. Not sure I like the two-piece design though.

Yup and just got confirmation that i have some yellow ones on the way! So i will share some pictures when they show up.


Originally Posted by elex300 (Post 10739476)
I have a question about how tight the diffs are supposed to be set? I just bought a used kit and rebuilt the diffs. Before I start breaking them in I was wondering how tight you set them? Looking at the manual it says 1/8 back from being fully tight. Is this correct? I just got a little confused looking at there diagram in the manual. It starts at 0 for fully tightened then back off 1/8 but where it would be backed off at the 1/2 turn it says its 1/4:confused::confused. Please clarify that its 1/8 turn from fully tightened.

Well i dont have a manual with the car i have, i just recently changed back to my roots of these AE cars, i would break it in somewhere in between 1/8-1/4 out and take note of how it feels before breaking it in. Also i'm sure you know that you will need to re-tighten after the balls groove/seat into the rings. Sometimes diff. tightness can be preference and you may want to run the front tighter then the rear. I cant remember what my old b44 was set at. Sorry i couldn't be more of a help, just dont let them bark. Im gonna go out on a limp here and say 1/8 out should be a close setting tho, just make sure it doesn't feel overly tight with the wheels on, would hate for it to dig into your rings to quickly and ruin em.

RCHR 05-16-2012 09:22 AM


Originally Posted by elex300 (Post 10739476)
I have a question about how tight the diffs are supposed to be set? I just bought a used kit and rebuilt the diffs. Before I start breaking them in I was wondering how tight you set them? Looking at the manual it says 1/8 back from being fully tight. Is this correct? I just got a little confused looking at there diagram in the manual. It starts at 0 for fully tightened then back off 1/8 but where it would be backed off at the 1/2 turn it says its 1/4:confused::confused. Please clarify that its 1/8 turn from fully tightened.

Popular settings is front diff backed off 1/8 of a turn from bottomed out, the rear diff set at 1/4 of a turn from bottomed out.

RCHR 05-16-2012 09:33 AM


Originally Posted by ray_munday (Post 10733799)
Wondering if anyone has had problems with the B44.1 slipper assembly being very tight when you mounted it in the car? My 44.1 built up OK, but when I tried to put on the vented hubs the unit was very tight to assemble onto the chassis and would not spin freely. I measured up the hubs and they were 5.0mm wide (standard was 4.7mm). This adds 0.6mm to the assembly and caused it to be tight.

I assumed it was just the vented hubs, but the other day a friend built his up (standard hubs) and it was also too tight. They measured up 5.0mm as well.

Anyone else come across this? Not sure if it is a batch out of tolerance or a design change? It is fixable by filing off 0.3mm from the outer end of the hubs (the end that is away from the spur gear.)

Ray

I just swapped mine in without any issues or modifications. I got my vented hubs when they first came out.

I would say something is not assembled correctly, check and make sure your bearings are in good shape, CVA's are in good shape, correct screws holding down the top slipper cover (screws not binding bearings), make sure the slipper spacers are on the correct way in the correct order, a lot of people put them on backwards.<---check that first....

There would need to be some very slight amount of tolerance with the bearings in the holders, or the slipper would not have any range of adjustment, since the slipper spring adjusts the compression on the slipper pads....

Mark W
(hobbyshop owner that works on lots of customers cars)

ray_munday 05-16-2012 04:07 PM

Slippers definitely assembled correctly. Measuring the hubs with verniers, there was a definite difference in sizes between parts. With the thicker parts, the slipper was a super tight fit between the bearing holders.

Filing down the hibs back to 4.7mm has fixed it, I was just wondering if anyone else had come across this.

Ray


Originally Posted by RCHR (Post 10740649)
I just swapped mine in without any issues or modifications. I got my vented hubs when they first came out.

I would say something is not assembled correctly, check and make sure your bearings are in good shape, CVA's are in good shape, correct screws holding down the top slipper cover (screws not binding bearings), make sure the slipper spacers are on the correct way in the correct order, a lot of people put them on backwards.<---check that first....

There would need to be some very slight amount of tolerance with the bearings in the holders, or the slipper would not have any range of adjustment, since the slipper spring adjusts the compression on the slipper pads....

Mark W
(hobbyshop owner that works on lots of customers cars)


elex300 05-18-2012 04:45 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Got my electronics all hooked up and bench tested. Can't wait to get it on the track tomorrow.:D Should I go around all the cf shock towers with some clear nail polish? I do it on my onroad chassis to help from splintering.

T3tsaya 05-18-2012 05:06 PM


Originally Posted by elex300 (Post 10750590)
Got my electronics all hooked up and bench tested. Can't wait to get it on the track tomorrow.:D Should I go around all the cf shock towers with some clear nail polish? I do it on my onroad chassis to help from splintering.

Clear Superglue is very good for that

big_knight15 05-19-2012 11:03 AM

Man its been a long time since I've been "in the know" with the B44.1 now I have questions :lol:
1. I heard people are putting Kyosho big bore shocks on their B44s. What size shocks are they using? Just the standard RB5 shocks? Are they really that much better than the new AE shocks? Do the rears only fit if you use the outer hole on the shock tower? I ask cause I bought my B44 used and the chassis was a bit messed up (screw holes twice the size than org.) so I converted it to a B44.1 just kept the old shocks and now I wanna upgrade.

2. I seen the new Jconcept wheels and they look amazing but my concern lies in the weight of them. I may be way off here but with the 2 pieces and it bolts together it just looks like it may weigh more than the AE wheels or the Jconcepts rulux wheel. If someone gets a set of the new Jconcepts wheel and can weigh it I'd be interested in knowing how much it weighs.

zipperfoot 05-19-2012 11:40 AM

I just converted my B44.1 to big bore springs. I used the Traxxas collars, Losi 22 bottom cups, eyelets, and springs.

Questions.

1: The front B44.1 cups are shorter than the rear. Will using the 22 bottom cups on the front of the 44.1 affect handling at all?

2: The 22 parts come with the bottom shock eyelets (The part that screws onto the shaft) and they fit perfectly onto the 44.1 shaft. For those of you using the Losi 22 bottom cups are you using the eyelets as well?

3: Has anyone tried Losi 22 white springs in the rear and orange in the front? (If not I'll let you know how it goes)

4: Are most people using the ballast weight or not?

nhraman 05-19-2012 01:33 PM


Originally Posted by zipperfoot (Post 10753090)
I just converted my B44.1 to big bore springs. I used the Traxxas collars, Losi 22 bottom cups, eyelets, and springs.

Questions.

1: The front B44.1 cups are shorter than the rear. Will using the 22 bottom cups on the front of the 44.1 affect handling at all?

2: The 22 parts come with the bottom shock eyelets (The part that screws onto the shaft) and they fit perfectly onto the 44.1 shaft. For those of you using the Losi 22 bottom cups are you using the eyelets as well?

3: Has anyone tried Losi 22 white springs in the rear and orange in the front? (If not I'll let you know how it goes)

4: Are most people using the ballast weight or not?

I run the same cups and collars you're running without any problems. I also run the associated bottom eyelets on all four shocks. I've been running Losi white or yellows in the rear and blue or greens in the front with great results. I also run the ballast weight. I hope this helps

mrplease 05-19-2012 02:36 PM

just ordered some yokomo big bores for my 44. been searching through this thread and couldn't find what i needed to know. does anyone know what i'll need to fit these? i've seen them on some b44's before so i know they'll fit but just curious if anyone knows exactly what i'll need to fit them...

zipperfoot 05-19-2012 10:35 PM


Originally Posted by nhraman (Post 10753276)
I run the same cups and collars you're running without any problems. I also run the associated bottom eyelets on all four shocks. I've been running Losi white or yellows in the rear and blue or greens in the front with great results. I also run the ballast weight. I hope this helps

Helps a lot. Thanks. Was not sure about the front springs. Some were telling me to run a similar set up to the b4.1 but I was not sure and a little skeptical.

Just took the car out for a test run up and down the street. So far so good. Car is planted, turning is precise, and when you drop it from about a foot off the ground, it just thumps and soaks it all up. Very happy so far. Will try it on the track tomorrow.

zipperfoot 05-19-2012 10:43 PM

Really surprised and disappointed with the Savox servo (1257). Noisy, Noisy, and did I say Noisy? I had to trim the front steering servo connector on the car to clear the servo (part 9743), , and now I find when I turn the servo to the left, the horn hits the body even with the radio trim down to 73 percent. I compared it to my Futaba BLS 451, and the Savox spline connector sticks out way further from the body of the servo. About 4mm more than the Futaba. Buyers beware.

T3tsaya 05-20-2012 11:25 AM

Can anyone tell me what springs i should get for the kyosho big bores like which set is usually dialed with the b44.1 on indoor and outdoor a good happy medium i guess you could say and which kyosho big bores do i need to order that bolt right up

john watkins 05-20-2012 04:27 PM

Quick one for you gurus out there....

I have made the switch to Avid Big bore springs on my 44.1

Questions 1: I cant get my ride ht any higher than 20 - 20.5 mm as the avid springs seem a little short, I have also tried Traxxas and Losi lower spring retainers BTW i am using Ghea Upper Collars.?

Question 2: has anyone found a need for a stiffer spring than the Purple Avid (which are .2lb) softer than the standard AE silver?

Cheers

rigor 05-20-2012 05:05 PM

I'm looking for some help from regulars at either OCRC or WCRC in Orange County / SoCal.

I recently picked up a very lightly used B44.1 . Got some help from a team driver at OCRC on the diffs and slipper settings. I dropped a brand new Novak GTB2 ESC and a Reedy Sonic 6.5T into it. The problem is, the car doesn't really feel any (or much) faster than my B4.1 with a Tekin RS and Tekin 13.5T in it. I had another guy at OCRC that used to run 4WD buggy class drive the car, and he also expressed it seemed 'slow' for that much motor.

I left the timing on the Reedy 6.5 alone from out of box, and I'm running a 81 spur with a 21 pinion. I checked temps on the ESC and motor with a temp gun after starting with a 17 pinion, then a 19, and now on the 21. Everything is free spinning, no binding, no bad noises from the gears. I've reset and double checked radio and ESC settings to make sure I'm getting full throttle, etc.

I'm starting to wonder if the issue is my batteries. I picked up a couple Turnigy Nano-Tech 5100mAh 65-130C 2S Lipos. I also have similar (same brand) batteries in my 2WD B4.1, and I thought they seemed really good, especially for the price.

Other then the car isn't as fast as it should be with this electronics setup, I'm having fun with it and it handles pretty well with the stock settings. I'm really hoping some local folks that read here can offer me to meet up with them to help further figure my issue out. I'd love to try another battery someone can offer to see if there is any major difference there before I plunk down a large chunk of cash on one for no good reason. Another thing is maybe swap my motor into your B44.1 to check it out. I have a good soldering iron and lots of soldering experience, so the swap would be very easy.

Please respond here and/or PM me. I'd greatly appreciate it, and am willing to buy your practice or race time that day for your assistance.

Thanks,
Jesse

vr6cj 05-20-2012 08:09 PM

B44.1 action shot.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...n/DSC_1933.jpg

BigJohnRacing 05-20-2012 09:13 PM

Pic
 
Great shot!

FACTORYBUTNOT 05-20-2012 11:36 PM

John Watkins-I just installed the Avid big bore springs on my 44.1 but I'm not having the ride height issue u are. I'm trying purple front/yellow rear springs with Traxxas 3768 collars top AND bottom. The Traxxas collars slip right over the stock AE spring retainers. I'm using stock pistons with AE 35 oil ft/30 oil rear. I have plenty of room for ride height adjustment.

I just put on the new springs last week and will try the car next Sunday here in socal at wcrc.

Jg

ron63 05-21-2012 02:39 AM

What's the reason everybody seems to go harder on the rear and softer on the front with the Big Bores?
I always thought that the best Start- Setup was the stock one, which is rear 1.9lbs/30w/No.1 piston and front 3.85lbs/35w/No.2 piston?

For me, the best "replacement" would then be rear AVID white(1.89) and front LOSI blue(3.8).

My technical knowledge tells me that it's possible to choose slightly softer BB springs, because the small springs got "softer" during driving, because they got more "stress" and had more work to do!?

Am i totally wrong?

Ron

mjk1210 05-21-2012 03:05 AM


Originally Posted by elex300 (Post 10739476)
I have a question about how tight the diffs are supposed to be set? I just bought a used kit and rebuilt the diffs. Before I start breaking them in I was wondering how tight you set them? Looking at the manual it says 1/8 back from being fully tight. Is this correct? I just got a little confused looking at there diagram in the manual. It starts at 0 for fully tightened then back off 1/8 but where it would be backed off at the 1/2 turn it says its 1/4:confused::confused. Please clarify that its 1/8 turn from fully tightened.

usually anywhere from 1/8 to 1/4 out in front and 1/4 to 1/2 out in rear feels the best. BUT the term "fully tightened" is misleading. This does not mean cranked down until the screw doesn't turn anymore. It means tightened until the spring is no longer able to hold the T-nut from moving. BIG difference. As you tighten the screw, watch the t-nut compress the spring. When it stops moving, that is fully tightened. Of course, after breaking in the diff to fully seat the balls and rings, you may need to re-adjust a little.

Eli 05-21-2012 03:20 AM


Originally Posted by mrplease (Post 10753391)
just ordered some yokomo big bores for my 44. been searching through this thread and couldn't find what i needed to know. does anyone know what i'll need to fit these? i've seen them on some b44's before so i know they'll fit but just curious if anyone knows exactly what i'll need to fit them...

Where did you order these? ive seen them but up in the air if i want to drop the coin on them.

john watkins 05-21-2012 04:06 PM


Originally Posted by FACTORYBUTNOT (Post 10758370)
John Watkins-I just installed the Avid big bore springs on my 44.1 but I'm not having the ride height issue u are. I'm trying purple front/yellow rear springs with Traxxas 3768 collars top AND bottom. The Traxxas collars slip right over the stock AE spring retainers. I'm using stock pistons with AE 35 oil ft/30 oil rear. I have plenty of room for ride height adjustment.

I just put on the new springs last week and will try the car next Sunday here in socal at wcrc.

Jg

Thanks Jg,

How much adjustment would you say you have available to you (IE threads available on shock body +5mm?)

I know the traxxas top collors slip over the originals which would give another 1-2mm of play, that may help, but if you are saying you have a bit of adjustment left again, I'm thinking i may have a bininding issue witch is limiting/affecting my rebound.

Let me now how you go with them, Alot of the Team guys havent gone with Avid's on their b44.1 they are still runing LOSI springs and Avid's on their other cars, not sure why?

Cheers

I will keep you guys posted on what i find out.

Yeti AS3 05-21-2012 05:19 PM


Originally Posted by rigor (Post 10756933)
I'm looking for some help from regulars at either OCRC or WCRC in Orange County / SoCal.

I recently picked up a very lightly used B44.1 . Got some help from a team driver at

I'm starting to wonder if the issue is my batteries. I picked up a couple Turnigy Nano-Tech 5100mAh 65-130C 2S Lipos. I also have similar (same brand) batteries in my 2WD B4.1, and I thought they seemed really good, especially for the price.

Please respond here and/or PM me. I'd greatly appreciate it, and am willing to buy your practice or race time that day for your assistance.

Thanks,
Jesse

Unless you got a bum pair of saddles, those batts are great. I run them in my 44.1 and Desc410.

CT RACER 05-21-2012 07:11 PM

Double post sorry.

CT RACER 05-21-2012 07:14 PM


Originally Posted by rigor (Post 10756933)
I'm looking for some help from regulars at either OCRC or WCRC in Orange County / SoCal.

I recently picked up a very lightly used B44.1 . Got some help from a team driver at OCRC on the diffs and slipper settings. I dropped a brand new Novak GTB2 ESC and a Reedy Sonic 6.5T into it. The problem is, the car doesn't really feel any (or much) faster than my B4.1 with a Tekin RS and Tekin 13.5T in it. I had another guy at OCRC that used to run 4WD buggy class drive the car, and he also expressed it seemed 'slow' for that much motor.

I left the timing on the Reedy 6.5 alone from out of box, and I'm running a 81 spur with a 21 pinion. I checked temps on the ESC and motor with a temp gun after starting with a 17 pinion, then a 19, and now on the 21. Everything is free spinning, no binding, no bad noises from the gears. I've reset and double checked radio and ESC settings to make sure I'm getting full throttle, etc.

I'm starting to wonder if the issue is my batteries. I picked up a couple Turnigy Nano-Tech 5100mAh 65-130C 2S Lipos. I also have similar (same brand) batteries in my 2WD B4.1, and I thought they seemed really good, especially for the price.

Other then the car isn't as fast as it should be with this electronics setup, I'm having fun with it and it handles pretty well with the stock settings. I'm really hoping some local folks that read here can offer me to meet up with them to help further figure my issue out. I'd love to try another battery someone can offer to see if there is any major difference there before I plunk down a large chunk of cash on one for no good reason. Another thing is maybe swap my motor into your B44.1 to check it out. I have a good soldering iron and lots of soldering experience, so the swap would be very easy.

Please respond here and/or PM me. I'd greatly appreciate it, and am willing to buy your practice or race time that day for your assistance.

Thanks,
Jesse

I thought about this problem all night. The only thing i can think of is you might have a bad battery or bad motor. The last thing i can think of is maybe your Throttle Epa on your radio is turned down. Good Luck hopefully you get it resolved without having to spend any money.;)

zipperfoot 05-21-2012 09:53 PM

Tried losi bb springs, orange front, #2, 35wt losi oil front, and white rear, #1, with 32.5 losi oil rear. That combo was too soft. Switched to yellow rear and that helped, and just ordered the green springs for the front.

I ran this set up at Glitch, in az, an outdoor, dry dirt track, lightly dusted.

tomdav 05-21-2012 10:52 PM


Originally Posted by rigor (Post 10756933)
I'm looking for some help from regulars at either OCRC or WCRC in Orange County / SoCal.

I recently picked up a very lightly used B44.1 . Got some help from a team driver at OCRC on the diffs and slipper settings. I dropped a brand new Novak GTB2 ESC and a Reedy Sonic 6.5T into it. The problem is, the car doesn't really feel any (or much) faster than my B4.1 with a Tekin RS and Tekin 13.5T in it. I had another guy at OCRC that used to run 4WD buggy class drive the car, and he also expressed it seemed 'slow' for that much motor.

I left the timing on the Reedy 6.5 alone from out of box, and I'm running a 81 spur with a 21 pinion. I checked temps on the ESC and motor with a temp gun after starting with a 17 pinion, then a 19, and now on the 21. Everything is free spinning, no binding, no bad noises from the gears. I've reset and double checked radio and ESC settings to make sure I'm getting full throttle, etc.

I'm starting to wonder if the issue is my batteries. I picked up a couple Turnigy Nano-Tech 5100mAh 65-130C 2S Lipos. I also have similar (same brand) batteries in my 2WD B4.1, and I thought they seemed really good, especially for the price.

Other then the car isn't as fast as it should be with this electronics setup, I'm having fun with it and it handles pretty well with the stock settings. I'm really hoping some local folks that read here can offer me to meet up with them to help further figure my issue out. I'd love to try another battery someone can offer to see if there is any major difference there before I plunk down a large chunk of cash on one for no good reason. Another thing is maybe swap my motor into your B44.1 to check it out. I have a good soldering iron and lots of soldering experience, so the swap would be very easy.

Please respond here and/or PM me. I'd greatly appreciate it, and am willing to buy your practice or race time that day for your assistance.

Thanks,
Jesse

Delete

mrplease 05-22-2012 12:47 AM

what pinion should i run with a 5.0 turn motor?

i know different tracks require different pinions but whats a good starting point?

spur gear is 84T

mjk1210 05-22-2012 03:30 AM


Originally Posted by mrplease (Post 10763309)
what pinion should i run with a 5.0 turn motor?

i know different tracks require different pinions but whats a good starting point?

spur gear is 84T

18

T-ROY22 05-22-2012 02:26 PM

New to off road and wanted to know what spare parts should i keep on hand for this B44 i just got. Any info is greatly appreciated, Thanks!

t0p_sh0tta 05-22-2012 02:42 PM

Can you drive, and how hot of a motor are you running?

If you can't stay off the pipes, or stop hitting things, then stock up on front arms and shock shafts. You'll want a few rear diff gear sets as well if this is your first 44. Pay special attention to how you shim the diffs, but they will wear over time.

rigor 05-22-2012 03:28 PM


Originally Posted by T-ROY22 (Post 10765811)
New to off road and wanted to know what spare parts should i keep on hand for this B44 i just got. Any info is greatly appreciated, Thanks!

I'm new to the B44.1 as well with about 4 years racing experience, but that racing was nearly 20 years ago.

I've run my B44.1 about 5 long practice days now, and it has had some rougher crashes off jumps and even cartwheeling. The only thing that I have broken is a front arm.

Before running, the first thing you want to do, is check if you have any side to side play with your outdrives from the gearboxes. If you do, break them down and add shims as necessary. Any extra wiggle there will cause the gears in the gearbox to have play and not mesh well, and you will strip the gears.

tomdav 05-22-2012 06:32 PM


Originally Posted by T-ROY22 (Post 10765811)
New to off road and wanted to know what spare parts should i keep on hand for this B44 i just got. Any info is greatly appreciated, Thanks!

Spare front arms and shock shafts, shock ends, shock caps and a spare diff gear set. I've had a b44 from the original release and the only other part I broke was a rear shock tower. Also I don't use any set screws on the cvd's. Just use a dab of CA on the retainer rings.

XDR 05-22-2012 07:37 PM


Originally Posted by johnbugman (Post 10698546)
here's what nano techs perform like. granted these happened in my sc10 4x4 multiple times. in my 44.1 they have came close. im running a ready sonic 6.5 in the 44.1

A solution to that is to replace the banana plugs on the harness with a good bullet like castles. That is cause by insufficient transfer which causes heat, I run a losi harness on all my regular packs and swapped the bullets on my saddles.

mrplease 05-22-2012 09:34 PM

thought i'd share some pics and info about some big bore shocks for the b44.1. anyway i ordered some yokomo b-max 4 big bores. went on perfectly with no mods at all. they're the exact same length as the v2 shocks and don't rub anywhere they're not suppose to. i guess the real test will be this weekend to see how they preform...

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/IMG_3947.jpg

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/IMG_3948.jpg

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/IMG_3953.jpg

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/IMG_3954.jpg

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/IMG_3955.jpg

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/IMG_3958.jpg

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/IMG_3964.jpg

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/IMG_3969.jpg

D3mOnIcRc8e 05-23-2012 02:15 AM


Originally Posted by mrplease (Post 10767457)
thought i'd share some pics and info about some big bore shocks for the b44.1. anyway i ordered some yokomo b-max 4 big bores. went on perfectly with no mods at all. they're the exact same length as the v2 shocks and don't rub anywhere they're not suppose to. i guess the real test will be this weekend to see how they preform...

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/IMG_3947.jpg

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/IMG_3948.jpg

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/IMG_3953.jpg

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/IMG_3954.jpg

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/IMG_3955.jpg

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/IMG_3958.jpg

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/IMG_3964.jpg

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/IMG_3969.jpg

Those shocks look really bad ass, i hope the are good let us know. Also where did you get the aluminum rear wing mount and brakets ??

t0p_sh0tta 05-23-2012 04:21 AM

What springs are those?

20 SMOKE 05-23-2012 04:57 AM

does any one have an extra fr/rr bumpers,mine didn't come with any.lightly used is ok


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