Not a good first outing, rear left hand side drive shaft keeps popping out, I ended up changing position bottom shock, now added another limiter see what happens, and top it off blew up the rear diff gears, I had shimmed them as per manual, my slipper was set a little on the tight side, going to rebuild, shim again with some pointers that I got from a Team Driver, and loosen up the slipper a tad...

Well, my comment is not just about the rear driveshafts popping out, but the width of the car, too... To make the car legal width at the worlds 2011, people put all the shims in rear wheel axles on the inside. Also, some people changed the blue spacers between the pin and outer bearing to for example Durango ones which are narrower than Associated ones. As a side effect these changes will move the drive shaft inwards and solve the popping issue without having to limit travel...

ultimate set up
 

what do you reccomend to a newbie looking to race clay track mod class esc and motor? Tires? any tuning tips?


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here is a picture of my 44.1, painted by myself... anyone interested in getting a body painted lmk

As far are set up goes, it depends on bite of track and how you drive. I know I hate sway bars, but they work for other people. stock set up is good, pretty sure I run that, but a little heavier weight in oil and I adjust the collars to where I want them depending on what tires I am running.

Good set ups on the AE website. Bar codes V1 always work great on hard packed high bite clay indoor. 8.5 motor seems to be common. I run LRP and Tekin RS ESC and really like my set up.

Good luck. Enjoy the car, they are a blast to drive.

Do you reccomend an LRP motor or an Orion motor? im going to be using the LRP speed control from the set up on the AE website Ryan Cavallieri..

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LRP or ORion
 

6.5 turn motor orion or LRP?

ESC orion r10 or LRP?

either will be fine. you gonna spend 108 for a new motor from orion? probably not, you can get a great motor from lrp, but I think the best motors out now are the d3 monsters. by far the fastest stock 17.5 out. mod shouldnt matter because of the power. go with a brand/look you like.

Personally I have never run Orion. I have had Novak, Tekin, Epic and now LRP and between those the LRP is the best. I also have only ran Tekin ESC's. Having said that the next time my Tekin dies, I'm done with them. I also am going to try LRP ESC.

Build is done . Pretty much any saddle pack I found fits in the B44.1 . I was able to run a few packs at my local track with it yesterday . Very fun buggy . The 8.5 turn motor in plenty of power for my track . I still have not added any timing advance and have room to gear a bit higher as well . Running 20/81 currently , but plan on going to 20/84 soon . The hole shot tires that come with the kit are ok , but barcodes are going to be better at the indoor clay track by my house . OCRC . The box set up is pretty good as far as shock and camber link positions . Time will tell .

Running a 35 C 5100 mAh Reedy pack , but have a couple Pro Match 50 C 5200 mAh packs coming in the mail . Should give me a bit more punch . Not that it is really needed . The dudes running 6.5 turn motors are nuts !!!


Going to mess around with the timing a bit next time .

Super stoked on this buggy !!

if you go from 20/81 to 20/84 it will slow the cars top speed down, might pick up accel, but will lose top end.

On the esc and speedo, I would personally go with orion just because I have never tried one. I like my tc spec in my 44.1, crazy acceleration and delivers great power. Boosted tekin can give more top speed, and with adjustments I can get it to accel close to what the tc does. I still like tekin due to their great customer service... I dont like their 17.5 or 13.5 motor though. I got way more punch and speed out of the 17.5 duo d3 than I did out of the 13.5 redline.

since we are talking about gearing does any know a good place to start with a tekin 8.5 in the B44. Also where can a guy can find another gear chart the one i used to use has been changed and I dont feel as confident in it as i once did.

Hey guys

I ran my 44.1 for the first time as part of the first race of our indoor local series. Last time I ran 4wd electric was last millenium :tire::tire::tire:

The stock spur has an obvious high spot, but I can uld live with that. Typical AE spur junk :ha:

The rear gearbox started developing a "tight" spot at the end of the 5mns of practice i ran the car for. I didn't have time to wrench on that the whole day as I was running both 2wd and 4wd the whole day, so I ran it like that, knowing it was suboptimal but hoping it would hold. It did but I spent most of the day tightening the slipper run after run, as the nut would unscrew all the time. Again, I haven't checked what shape the o-ring is in, but I suspect it's gone. During the last round of the A, which I still managed to grab, the spur ended up letting go at the same time as the slipper which went completely loose (bye bye o-ring).

had one of the local top dogs help me set it up with the diffs early in the day but obviously I did sthing wrong about it. I can set up a diff/slipper combo pretty well in 2wd, but 4wd was a bit of a new thing to me.
HEre's my Q - is there something special to do to this slipper to make it work, or to actually prevent it to work at all like mine did?

Thanks
Paul

Yep . Good point on the gearing . I was thinking backwards . Going to give it some timimg at the track tomorrow . It could handle some more top end . Maybe even go to a bigger pinion .

As far as the speedo goes , I will get a LRP SXX . I have one in my B4.1 . Best I ever had . Super smooth on the brakes and plenty of power on tap . And when it brakes , becuase all ESC's do , I can just drive over to Associated and get a new one . No questions asked .