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-   -   B44.1 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/441523-b44-1-thread.html)

CT RACER 05-02-2012 05:42 PM


Originally Posted by elex300 (Post 10683404)
Well I decided to go with the 44 platform over the Rango. Mainly because I alreadyhave a SC10 and a B4.1 so it makes things easier. So what are the upgrades the 44.1 has over the 44. I can get a 44 lightly used quite a bit cheaper. It has the V2 parts and lipo cradle already. Just curious as to why I should go the 44.1 route over the 44.

Well the .1 chassie is narrower but if you can get your hands on a 44 for a good price with the v2 upgrades i would take it.

Bike racer 05-02-2012 06:37 PM


Originally Posted by elex300 (Post 10683404)
Well I decided to go with the 44 platform over the Rango. Mainly because I alreadyhave a SC10 and a B4.1 so it makes things easier. So what are the upgrades the 44.1 has over the 44. I can get a 44 lightly used quite a bit cheaper. It has the V2 parts and lipo cradle already. Just curious as to why I should go the 44.1 route over the 44.

In my opinion the shocks are about the only thing that makes much difference, and that is really just ease of maintenance.

I actually think the 44 chassis with the nimh cell cutouts is better if you run the AE chassis tape to keep the cutouts from digging into the dirt.

You can easily trim the 44 chassis to match the 44.1 chassis.

elex300 05-02-2012 06:37 PM


Originally Posted by CT RACER (Post 10683722)
Well the .1 chassie is narrower but if you can get your hands on a 44 for a good price with the v2 upgrades i would take it.

Thanks James, That's what I think too. I found a sweet deal on one with motor,esc,and saddles. I can always buy a chassis if I stick to the class.

P.S. What happened to the mini king? No more onroad? Jeff's wont be the same.

TeamOSG 05-02-2012 07:16 PM


Originally Posted by fastchvy (Post 10680259)
I started with white also but went to yellow in the rear, white made it donkey kick a little, yellow is much better. If you try yellow let me know what you think. Im running the carbon c hub also, gave it a ton more rear grip.

I'll give it a try. Are you racing Friday night?


- Terry

zipperfoot 05-02-2012 07:18 PM


Originally Posted by TeamOSG (Post 10680231)
Avid purple fronts and white rears are working well at WCRC. I have only one practice day on them but they are good all around the track. Holds well on the sweeper and gives better "pop" on the triple. Stock pistons with 35/30 Losi oil.

When you say stock pistons are you talking about 2-2 or 3-2. I have seen several set ups using 2-2,. I too use Losi 35 and 30. Like the way it feels.

fastchvy 05-02-2012 09:04 PM


Originally Posted by TeamOSG (Post 10684172)
I'll give it a try. Are you racing Friday night?


- Terry

No, but i will be there all day saturday

bergie33 05-02-2012 10:19 PM

My new B44.1
 
I think I have a crush on my new B44.1. Raced it today for the first time. I am definitely in love.

fastchvy 05-02-2012 10:21 PM


Originally Posted by bergie33 (Post 10684904)
I think I have a crush on my new B44.1. Raced it today for the first time. I am definitely in love.

You run a 13.5 in the b44.1?

TeamOSG 05-03-2012 12:42 AM


Originally Posted by zipperfoot (Post 10684187)
When you say stock pistons are you talking about 2-2 or 3-2. I have seen several set ups using 2-2, but the worlds kit calls for 3-2. I too use Losi 35 and 30. Like the way it feels.

2-2

I also tried the MIP Bypass 1 valves. I ran them in compression, rebound, and mixed. I had to go up in oil wt when using them. For now, I went back to the stock pistons because want to see how much the springs help before I start changing more things.

john watkins 05-03-2012 05:21 AM

Hey guys,

Quick questions for you spring rate experts.

I just made the switch to avid big bore springs... Anyway... The standard b44.1 silver spring is 2.85 lb but the heaviest front buggy spring avid has is 2.61. Will this be sufficient ? Is this an oversight? Or perhaps spring rates don't transfer across from standards springs to big bore springs and if that is the case which front avid spring should I use?

Thanks in advance

Cheers

John

fastchvy 05-03-2012 08:17 AM


Originally Posted by john watkins (Post 10685582)
Hey guys,

Quick questions for you spring rate experts.

I just made the switch to avid big bore springs... Anyway... The standard b44.1 silver spring is 2.85 lb but the heaviest front buggy spring avid has is 2.61. Will this be sufficient ? Is this an oversight? Or perhaps spring rates don't transfer across from standards springs to big bore springs and if that is the case which front avid spring should I use?

Thanks in advance

Cheers

John

Run purple in the front with #2 piston 35wt ae oil, yellow on the rear #1 piston ae 30wt oil

SFtifosi 05-03-2012 08:36 AM


Originally Posted by Bike racer (Post 10683970)
You can easily trim the 44 chassis to match the 44.1 chassis.

Would you be able to elaborate on this? I'm a nitro guy, but I took a short break from R/C and I'm back and trying my hand at electric. I would love to stick with NiMH for a bit as it's what I know (from waaay back) and I won't be on a steep learning curve going with LiPo.

Does anyone even make loose, NiMH cells anymore? I kinda miss building battery packs.

20 SMOKE 05-03-2012 08:58 AM


Originally Posted by SFtifosi (Post 10686405)
Would you be able to elaborate on this? I'm a nitro guy, but I took a short break from R/C and I'm back and trying my hand at electric. I would love to stick with NiMH for a bit as it's what I know (from waaay back) and I won't be on a steep learning curve going with LiPo.

Does anyone even make loose, NiMH cells anymore? I kinda miss building battery packs.

just leave the chassis stock its just fine,there are a few cells out there but for the money you can get better runtime with lipo so i would just run lipo

SFtifosi 05-03-2012 10:15 AM


Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE (Post 10686503)
just leave the chassis stock its just fine,there are a few cells out there but for the money you can get better runtime with lipo so i would just run lipo

Are all the horror stories about people burning their houses down that common? I never feared for my life while charging NiMH.... Just seems like a hassle for a couple more minutes runtime. Do they weight that much less? Is that a big advantage of LiPo? Remember, nitro guy here...

mulepic 05-03-2012 10:51 AM


Originally Posted by SFtifosi (Post 10686890)
Are all the horror stories about people burning their houses down that common? I never feared for my life while charging NiMH.... Just seems like a hassle for a couple more minutes runtime. Do they weight that much less? Is that a big advantage of LiPo? Remember, nitro guy here...

Lithium based batteries have 3x the energy density when compared to Nickel based battery. So the same capacity battery will weigh 1/3 the weight in lithium vs. Nickel.

Jack Smash 05-03-2012 10:57 AM


Originally Posted by SFtifosi (Post 10686890)
Are all the horror stories about people burning their houses down that common? I never feared for my life while charging NiMH.... Just seems like a hassle for a couple more minutes runtime. Do they weight that much less? Is that a big advantage of LiPo? Remember, nitro guy here...

I have seen way more problems with Nimh cells than Lipo. The only way I've seen a lipo blow is it being charged on Nimh instead of Lipo settings.

The last few months I ran Onroad back in about 2008, we had atleast one cell explosion per night with the Nimh packs, and they blow violently without warning.

elex300 05-03-2012 11:00 AM


Originally Posted by SFtifosi (Post 10686890)
Are all the horror stories about people burning their houses down that common? I never feared for my life while charging NiMH.... Just seems like a hassle for a couple more minutes runtime. Do they weight that much less? Is that a big advantage of LiPo? Remember, nitro guy here...

Back when lipo first came out and nobody knew what they were doing maybe it was more dangerous. But the cells are better now and with most of the smart chargers you really have to try to blow up a lipo. Not saying accidents don't happen but they are far and few between.

SFtifosi 05-03-2012 11:23 AM

Thanks for the info everyone. I guess I shouldn't bother with NiMH. There isn't a top tier company I can find that even sells loose NiMH cells. I guess that should tell me everything I need to know.

ALIEN3T 05-03-2012 11:37 AM

plus with same motor. you can see a speed diffrence and runtime diffrence side be side. li-po winds. (plus you want to race 7.2 volts against 7.4 volts0

Price of li-pos have come down so so much, and chargers are same price. good choice to go li-po. plus longer run time, in a smaller package. that and you dont have the matched battery war anymore.

elex300 05-03-2012 11:42 AM

Been reading alot on this thread. Can't wait to add one of these to my line up. Gonna be a challenge to run 4 classes:lol:

CT RACER 05-03-2012 12:02 PM


Originally Posted by elex300 (Post 10683972)
Thanks James, That's what I think too. I found a sweet deal on one with motor,esc,and saddles. I can always buy a chassis if I stick to the class.

P.S. What happened to the mini king? No more onroad? Jeff's wont be the same.

I was there easter i dident see you had no luck this time but there will be more chances ill be there late july.;) See you than and enjoy the 44.

bergie33 05-03-2012 01:36 PM


Originally Posted by fastchvy (Post 10684909)
You run a 13.5 in the b44.1?

Yep, Tekin 13.5. It was great off the triple. :D

elex300 05-03-2012 01:48 PM


Originally Posted by bergie33 (Post 10687658)
Yep, Tekin 13.5. It was great off the triple. :D

Your the second person i've seen running a 13.5 in a 4wd buggy. Its got to be slow,right?

bergie33 05-03-2012 01:57 PM


Originally Posted by elex300 (Post 10687693)
Your the second person i've seen running a 13.5 in a 4wd buggy. Its got to be slow,right?

Not with timing and boost. Besides, that is what we run at our track. There are no other 4wd buggy classes.

fastchvy 05-03-2012 02:39 PM


Originally Posted by bergie33 (Post 10687729)
Not with timing and boost. Besides, that is what we run at our track. There are no other 4wd buggy classes.

If your boosting everything then why dont you guys just get an 8.5 and leave it stock with no boost so it runs alot cooler..

carver gt 05-03-2012 09:09 PM

Whats a good setup for a wet indoor clay track that is on the larger side? Also what is a good gearing setup with a 6.5? Thanks

fastchvy 05-03-2012 09:23 PM


Originally Posted by carver gt (Post 10689501)
Whats a good setup for a wet indoor clay track that is on the larger side? Also what is a good gearing setup with a 6.5? Thanks

Are you talking about westcoast rc? 18/81

carver gt 05-03-2012 09:25 PM

Well.. I was actually talking Bout SDrC but I may go up there at some point

T3tsaya 05-03-2012 09:25 PM

Just got the car its SOOOO sick. i looked for a bit through some of the pages but what mods should be a nessesity?!

fastchvy 05-03-2012 09:51 PM

To be honest, the 2 biggest changes that made a big difference for me was the rear carbon c brace and the new AVID BB springs. Get the diffs set and slipper set right and you will have a load of fun..

fastchvy 05-03-2012 10:26 PM


Originally Posted by carver gt (Post 10689554)
Well.. I was actually talking Bout SDrC but I may go up there at some point

Pm me if you want a good set up for wcrc....

carver gt 05-03-2012 11:02 PM

PM'ed

TJMac 05-04-2012 09:03 AM


Originally Posted by SFtifosi (Post 10687134)
Thanks for the info everyone. I guess I shouldn't bother with NiMH. There isn't a top tier company I can find that even sells loose NiMH cells. I guess that should tell me everything I need to know.

If you really want NiMH I'd contact Pro-Match, they still sell them (matched even).....or at least they did.

TJMac 05-04-2012 09:06 AM

Just checked, they still sell them....
 
Pro-Match NiMH cells

rigor 05-04-2012 09:36 AM

Need some help!
 
I recently picked up a lightly used B44.1 . I've been taking my time going over the car to both clean and familiarize myself with it, as it's my first 4WD buggy (always had 2WD RC10's before).

Everything with the car kit itself, the drivetrains, gears, slipper feel, etc, all spin freely and very well. However, once I mount a motor into the car (19T pinion / 81 spur), if I pull the throttle on my Tx the wheels will turn for about 1/4 a second then stop. After that, throttle or braking does no action on the car, but I can see the Tekin ESC controller accepting my Tx actions by the light patterns.

Trying to further determine what was going on, I switched out to a motor I know is good and working fine in my 2WD buddy. Same thing; binds up. I then tried manually turning the spur gear while the motor appears to be mounted properly (good gear mesh) and basically the spur turns well and then becomes VERY tough to turn, feels like it's binding HARD. I can force it past this point by hand, and then the same thing repeats; turns nicely and then BAM... very tough to turn.

I'm not new to RC cars and have checked the B44.1 manual, and it appears I have everything with the motor mounted fine. What else could it be ? What else do I check ? Would really appreciate the help. I'm ready to get this buggy going!

Thanks so much,
Jesse

T3tsaya 05-04-2012 09:53 AM


Originally Posted by fastchvy (Post 10689645)
To be honest, the 2 biggest changes that made a big difference for me was the rear carbon c brace and the new AVID BB springs. Get the diffs set and slipper set right and you will have a load of fun..

Can anyone possibly provide a link to this brace and do the avid springs mount right up to the v2 shocks or does it require more parts

crashnburn 05-04-2012 09:55 AM

Could be the spur gear is out of round. Some of the Robinson Racing spurs are really bad for this. Just a thought....or brain fart.

zipperfoot 05-04-2012 04:34 PM


Originally Posted by rigor (Post 10691319)
I recently picked up a lightly used B44.1 . I've been taking my time going over the car to both clean and familiarize myself with it, as it's my first 4WD buggy (always had 2WD RC10's before).

Everything with the car kit itself, the drivetrains, gears, slipper feel, etc, all spin freely and very well. However, once I mount a motor into the car (19T pinion / 81 spur), if I pull the throttle on my Tx the wheels will turn for about 1/4 a second then stop. After that, throttle or braking does no action on the car, but I can see the Tekin ESC controller accepting my Tx actions by the light patterns.

Trying to further determine what was going on, I switched out to a motor I know is good and working fine in my 2WD buddy. Same thing; binds up. I then tried manually turning the spur gear while the motor appears to be mounted properly (good gear mesh) and basically the spur turns well and then becomes VERY tough to turn, feels like it's binding HARD. I can force it past this point by hand, and then the same thing repeats; turns nicely and then BAM... very tough to turn.

I'm not new to RC cars and have checked the B44.1 manual, and it appears I have everything with the motor mounted fine. What else could it be ? What else do I check ? Would really appreciate the help. I'm ready to get this buggy going!

Thanks so much,
Jesse

Have you cracked open the gearboxes and checked the mesh? Start at each end of the car. Check the CVD's for binding, bearings, spur gear like the other guy said, and even your sensor cable on the ESC. Does it do the same thing on a stand with the wheels off the ground as it does when placed on the ground? Just my two cents.

the big rc 05-04-2012 04:44 PM

I am finishing up my factory team kit and there was no ballast weight in it. I don't see it listed on the newer set up sheets. Are they not using it now on the FT B44.1?

nevermind i just found it

Dias 05-04-2012 04:52 PM

Issues screwing shock shaft into eyelet.
 
Hey all, I searching for a post about this, but not having any luck, so thought I'd quit beating my head on the desk and post.

I broke a shock shaft a couple weeks ago(broke inside the eyelet, had about 3 threads on shaft).

I got a replacement shaft and a package of eyelets. I cannot get the shaft tho thread into the eyelet. Is there a trick to this? Do the numbers on the eyelets make a difference or are they just batch numbers or something?

Thanks in advance for any help on this. Very frustrated at the moment.


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