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-   -   B44.1 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/441523-b44-1-thread.html)

idrummerboy13 04-29-2012 10:07 AM


Originally Posted by nhraman (Post 10666803)
You take the associated blue eyelet holders and hardware and throw it into the garbage!! Get some longer bolts, I used blue ball stud washers, space the shocks away from the towers. I also used the small losi lock nuts to retain them. I'm not saying you might not have to relief the shock tower in the inside corner but I still think they should bolt right up with little to no modifications. Did you look at my pics? The only thing associated I re-used was the bottom shock eyelet and bottom mounting bolt.

now what did these shocks do for your car, i have a set sitting at the lhs=]

rickybobbyxxx 04-29-2012 01:48 PM


Originally Posted by idrummerboy13 (Post 10667046)
now what did these shocks do for your car, i have a set sitting at the lhs=]

Ont
Dont even waste your money, the actual kyosho big bores do not fit, not without having a bad angle on them

BigJohnRacing 04-29-2012 02:57 PM

Any Great Wiring Jobs B44/B44.1 Post Them
 
Show us all how you put together your race buggy! Post a pic! New ideas are always in need, please list your components as well, and what surface you race on!

If anyone has any more fields to and to the list post them-

Larren 04-29-2012 04:29 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Hi,

One quick question. Regarding the steering rack setup, is the mark front hole make the B44.1 turn more aggresive or less aggresive? I have the stock setup currently.

Many thanks.

20 SMOKE 04-29-2012 04:32 PM

looking for a motor cam and clamp if anyone has a spare

Mini8 Menace 04-29-2012 05:23 PM

Shocks Keep blowing out
 
hey I just got back from the track i've done what you guys have suggested and my shock piston e-clips not sure why i have ever used different e-clips and they held up great but still one popped off not sure what to do or what to use?? what about other shocks which ones would fit or what parts do i need to fit them
or should i just buy new shafts and associated e-clips and completely rebuild all shocks cause I'm getting sick of this happening this is the 3rd time in a week and any other help would be greatly appreciated

Mini8 Menace 04-29-2012 05:35 PM

oh everything runs great
 
Just to let you all know the LRP X-20 is insane plenty of power tq and great power band fast on the straight and i have is tuned at 80% power after 10 min practice it comes off at 152 was the highest and it was really hot out side too but mainly comes off in the low 140s my gearing is 18/81 running the LRP TC spec w/version 4 firmware at 1-2-2-4 but i am going to be tuning the drag brake to a 2 or 3 someone asked about the servo its the Hitec 7940 high voltage and around 250 tq is a beast plenty of speed and tq
BUT PLEASE HELP ME OUT WITH THE SHOCKS THATS THE ONLY THING THAT I CANT FIX NOT SURE WHATS WRONG

20 SMOKE 04-29-2012 05:59 PM


Originally Posted by Larren (Post 10668167)
Hi,

One quick question. Regarding the steering rack setup, is the mark front hole make the B44.1 turn more aggresive or less aggresive? I have the stock setup currently.

Many thanks.

POSITION
CHARACTERISTICS
Forward holes (sharper angle)
Smoothens out steering response
Car reacts smoothly
Better suited to smooth fl owing tracks with
high speed corners
Rearward holes (shallower angle)
Quickens initial steering response
Car reacts faster to steering input
Better suited to small, tight tracks

TJMac 04-29-2012 08:27 PM


Originally Posted by smittyusmc (Post 10663889)
Ok guys so I have a Orion vortex R10 pro in my b4 right now I am running a 17.5 in it but I will soon to be putting in 8.5t. My question is I was going to buy the vortex r10 race with a 6.5t in my b44. Would it be better to put the pro in the b44 or will the race be fine.

Also what is the big diff between the pro and the race? Thanks for your help q

I'd run the Race on the B4 and the Pro in the B44. 6.5 + 4wd is going to put more stress on the ESC than an 8.5 in a 2wd.

Biggest difference is amps. Race is 90amps and the Pro is 160 (2-3s version).

zipperfoot 04-29-2012 10:30 PM


Originally Posted by Mini8 Menace (Post 10668351)
hey I just got back from the track i've done what you guys have suggested and my shock piston e-clips not sure why i have ever used different e-clips and they held up great but still one popped off not sure what to do or what to use?? what about other shocks which ones would fit or what parts do i need to fit them
or should i just buy new shafts and associated e-clips and completely rebuild all shocks cause I'm getting sick of this happening this is the 3rd time in a week and any other help would be greatly appreciated

I have never seen anyone else with this problem, and have never had this problem occur with the two B44's and two B44.1's i have owned. Is this happening to the same shocks over and over? It must be the clips or shafts. Front or rear? Are you using stock pistons? The c clips are seated properly and click when you install them into the grove? If all these requirements are met then i have no idea. When you figure this out please share the results.

smittyusmc 04-29-2012 11:03 PM


Originally Posted by TJMac (Post 10669227)
I'd run the Race on the B4 and the Pro in the B44. 6.5 + 4wd is going to put more stress on the ESC than an 8.5 in a 2wd.

Biggest difference is amps. Race is 90amps and the Pro is 160 (2-3s version).

Thank u for your help will I have any problems with the race being in the 2wd. I really dont understand what the 90amps means over the 160amps.

Larren 04-29-2012 11:29 PM


Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE (Post 10668490)
POSITION
CHARACTERISTICS
Forward holes (sharper angle)
Smoothens out steering response
Car reacts smoothly
Better suited to smooth fl owing tracks with
high speed corners
Rearward holes (shallower angle)
Quickens initial steering response
Car reacts faster to steering input
Better suited to small, tight tracks

Thank you Jamie for your fast reponce. I will definately try the forward hole setting.

fastchvy 04-30-2012 03:57 PM

Im running avid springs and wow!

TheHillsPancake 04-30-2012 04:11 PM

Has anybody had a problem with front slipper drive cup, the pin that is in it keeps sliding out from the o-ring??

fastchvy 04-30-2012 04:13 PM

Does the o ring come off?

TheHillsPancake 04-30-2012 04:21 PM

No it doesn't it just gets pushed out of the way by the pin

fastchvy 04-30-2012 04:25 PM

Replace the few peices and see if it does it again

TheHillsPancake 04-30-2012 04:27 PM

Replace the slipper out drive cup?

fastchvy 04-30-2012 04:28 PM

The pin, the plastic cup and o ring

zipperfoot 04-30-2012 04:58 PM


Originally Posted by fastchvy (Post 10673006)
Im running avid springs and wow!

Why the wow? Are you impressed. Please explain and desribe your set up

TheHillsPancake 04-30-2012 05:02 PM

I replaced the pin but I couldn't replace the plastic out drive cause west coast doesn't have one in stock... Any other suggestions?

fastchvy 04-30-2012 05:04 PM

I have been running kyosho big bore springs for awhile now and ran the new avids over the weekend and was way better. Car had a ton more grip, on power, off power, and even on a high speed sweeper...i wish i can fill out a set up sheet and then post a link, i would like some people to try my set up to see what they think

fastchvy 04-30-2012 05:08 PM


Originally Posted by TheHillsPancake (Post 10673300)
I replaced the pin but I couldn't replace the plastic out drive cause west coast doesn't have one in stock... Any other suggestions?

If your just trying to run till you get parts then maybe put a little ca glue on the end of the pin and some on the bring so it can't push away, i just took mine apart last week and had a hard time getting the pin out so i think you might have a worn out plastic cup and maybe a stretched o ring

TJMac 04-30-2012 09:58 PM


Originally Posted by smittyusmc (Post 10669840)
Thank u for your help will I have any problems with the race being in the 2wd. I really dont understand what the 90amps means over the 160amps.

You shouldn't have any problems.

They rate them according to how much juice they can handle. A 160amp ESC can handle more power than a 90amp ESC. That doesn't mean the 90amp ESC isn't any good, it just means you can't run crazy low turn motors. I run a Race in my daughters SC10 in 17.5 blinky and the ESC is so under stressed its ridiculous. She's run 15-20 minutes at a time practicing and the Race comes off the track @ 110-115F without a fan. You should have no issues running an 8.5. My only concern would be to check temps after 6-7 minutes if you decide not to run the fan (or can't .... B4 is a little tight).

TJMac 04-30-2012 10:10 PM


Originally Posted by zipperfoot (Post 10669730)
I have never seen anyone else with this problem, and have never had this problem occur with the two B44's and two B44.1's i have owned. Is this happening to the same shocks over and over? It must be the clips or shafts. Front or rear? Are you using stock pistons? The c clips are seated properly and click when you install them into the grove? If all these requirements are met then i have no idea. When you figure this out please share the results.

I was about to post the same thing. I've been around the hobby for 25+ years and I've never seen that happen, not once. Very strange. I'd replace the shaft and clips and make sure they're clicking into place (like you said).

elex300 05-01-2012 09:42 AM

Im thinking about adding a 4wd buggy to my racing fleet. I have it narrowed down to the B44.1 and the Durango DEX410R. I love my AE cars but the drive line of the 44 scares me a little bit. How often fo you have to rebuild the ball diffs? Also how much $ will I spend over and above the kit cost to make it race ready (Not counting electronics)?

Tyler Keel 05-01-2012 10:08 AM


Originally Posted by elex300 (Post 10676658)
Im thinking about adding a 4wd buggy to my racing fleet. I have it narrowed down to the B44.1 and the Durango DEX410R. I love my AE cars but the drive line of the 44 scares me a little bit. How often fo you have to rebuild the ball diffs? Also how much $ will I spend over and above the kit cost to make it race ready (Not counting electronics)?

Won't be rebuilding diffs much if they're built properly from the start. As far as the drivetrain goes, just add 2 shims on top of what the kit says to place to each side of the diff before you place it in the transmission case (6 gear side/4 other). This will prevent it from moving side to side and stripping teeth off the gear.

As far as cost after kit, the kit is race ready out of the box. Put in some electronics and grab some throttle.

TJMac 05-01-2012 10:18 AM


Originally Posted by Tyler Keel (Post 10676752)
Won't be rebuilding diffs much if they're built properly from the start. As far as the drivetrain goes, just add 2 shims on top of what the kit says to place to each side of the diff before you place it in the transmission case (6 gear side/4 other). This will prevent it from moving side to side and stripping teeth off the gear.

As far as cost after kit, the kit is race ready out of the box. Put in some electronics and grab some throttle.

Bingo. I've done very little outside the stock setup. I also haven't upgraded anything (doesn't really need it). Car is a missle. You will break front arms and shock parts but that's not the fault of the car. As far as gears, I'm still on my originals. Shim and lube and you're GTG. Now it they would release the BBs and maybe steel gears (better safe than sorry) I would be completely content with this buggy.

zipperfoot 05-01-2012 11:34 AM


Originally Posted by elex300 (Post 10676658)
Im thinking about adding a 4wd buggy to my racing fleet. I have it narrowed down to the B44.1 and the Durango DEX410R. I love my AE cars but the drive line of the 44 scares me a little bit. How often fo you have to rebuild the ball diffs? Also how much $ will I spend over and above the kit cost to make it race ready (Not counting electronics)?

I have recently owned both cars at the same time. They are completely different animals. The 410 with it's gear diffs was easier to maintain, but harder to dial in with the right oil. If you know someone with a set up that works thats half the battle right there. I know four guys that had the 410 and all of them had a different set up. You also need to use Kyosho diff seals so the diffs dont leak. Also, parts in my area (AZ) are non-existant. The same four guys all stocked up on parts, I mean BOXES of parts. With the b44 you just walked into the shop to choose from a wall of parts. To me that was a huge deciding factor. But you really cant appreciate the parts supply thing until you have been through it. Every now and then I check amainhobbies for the 410. The 410v3 has been on and off back order for over 6 months. It is currently on back order. Durango was recently purchased and everyone said the parts supply thing would improve, but I have not seen it materialize yet.

Driving wise, the b44.1 is pretty good right out of the box. To compare it to the 410, it is not as plush, but is more precise and lighter feeling than the 410. The b44 feels like it has a lower roll center, and is more planted. On the other hand the 410 feels smoother, is easy to drive, and handles well on tracks that are less than perfect.

Fit and finish on both cars is pretty good, but the 410 seems to have a little more slop. Also, you need to be creative to squeeze the electronics into the 410. Tight fit is an understatement.

Hope this info helps you decide. If I had to choose right now, I would say the b44.1 with BB springs is the hot ticket.

20 SMOKE 05-01-2012 12:04 PM

well i am coming back to a 44 after 4 years away

nhraman 05-01-2012 05:32 PM


Originally Posted by idrummerboy13 (Post 10667046)
now what did these shocks do for your car, i have a set sitting at the lhs=]

I just like the fact that they don't leak, they're easy to bleed, and they are silky smooth. I'm currently running losi yellows in the rear and blues up front. This is the best the car has felt so far.

Mini8 Menace 05-01-2012 05:54 PM

Thanks guys
 

Originally Posted by TJMac (Post 10674960)
I was about to post the same thing. I've been around the hobby for 25+ years and I've never seen that happen, not once. Very strange. I'd replace the shaft and clips and make sure they're clicking into place (like you said).

Yeah I just ordered two new front shock shafts and the rears actually held up I thought they popped out but it was only the front after I took everything apart but I had replaced them with similar eclips but not associated should I redo all my shock shafts with associated eclips that I ordered??

TJMac 05-01-2012 08:10 PM


Originally Posted by Mini8 Menace (Post 10678694)
Yeah I just ordered two new front shock shafts and the rears actually held up I thought they popped out but it was only the front after I took everything apart but I had replaced them with similar eclips but not associated should I redo all my shock shafts with associated eclips that I ordered??

That's what I would do.

Mini8 Menace 05-01-2012 08:20 PM

Thanks
 

Originally Posted by TJMac (Post 10679399)
That's what I would do.

Yeah that's what I figured so I'll just rebuild everything and let you know how it holds up hopefully I'll be able to get to the track tomorrow

smittyusmc 05-01-2012 08:20 PM


Originally Posted by TJMac (Post 10674900)
You shouldn't have any problems.

They rate them according to how much juice they can handle. A 160amp ESC can handle more power than a 90amp ESC. That doesn't mean the 90amp ESC isn't any good, it just means you can't run crazy low turn motors. I run a Race in my daughters SC10 in 17.5 blinky and the ESC is so under stressed its ridiculous. She's run 15-20 minutes at a time practicing and the Race comes off the track @ 110-115F without a fan. You should have no issues running an 8.5. My only concern would be to check temps after 6-7 minutes if you decide not to run the fan (or can't .... B4 is a little tight).

Ok that makes more sense thank you for all of your help.

the big rc 05-01-2012 11:28 PM

So what's the Losi Big bore spring combo to use. Is it the same at the B4.1?

TeamOSG 05-02-2012 12:00 AM


Originally Posted by fastchvy (Post 10673310)
I have been running kyosho big bore springs for awhile now and ran the new avids over the weekend and was way better. Car had a ton more grip, on power, off power, and even on a high speed sweeper...i wish i can fill out a set up sheet and then post a link, i would like some people to try my set up to see what they think

Avid purple fronts and white rears are working well at WCRC. I have only one practice day on them but they are good all around the track. Holds well on the sweeper and gives better "pop" on the triple. Stock pistons with 35/30 Losi oil.

fastchvy 05-02-2012 12:11 AM


Originally Posted by TeamOSG (Post 10680231)
Avid purple fronts and white rears are working well at WCRC. I have only one practice day on them but they are good all around the track. Holds well on the sweeper and gives better "pop" on the triple. Stock pistons with 35/30 Losi oil.

I started with white also but went to yellow in the rear, white made it donkey kick a little, yellow is much better. If you try yellow let me know what you think. Im running the carbon c hub also, gave it a ton more rear grip.

Tyler Keel 05-02-2012 11:48 AM

I'm running Losi Green/White on mine w/ 35-30. Love the way the car handles.

elex300 05-02-2012 05:36 PM

Well I decided to go with the 44 platform over the Rango. Mainly because I alreadyhave a SC10 and a B4.1 so it makes things easier. So what are the upgrades the 44.1 has over the 44. I can get a 44 lightly used quite a bit cheaper. It has the V2 parts and lipo cradle already. Just curious as to why I should go the 44.1 route over the 44.


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