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-   -   B44.1 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/441523-b44-1-thread.html)

Kenton 10-12-2011 11:17 AM


Originally Posted by Ostach24 (Post 9772723)
I run thunder power or smc. The smc has less power, but still does just fine. Also I know we all say see what the guys are running at the track to get a baseline, but you have to know what you can handle as well. A lot of Guys at my track can run a 17.5 within a second of some of the mod guys, but when they run mod they run slower times because they are not used to the speed and cant handle the power.

Very True . I will spend some time with the 8.5 Turn Ballsitic and MMP combo for a while to save money . Becuase that is what I have .

What I really need to know before I order Saddlepacks is -----

What is the maximum height of the LiPo that can fit in ??


I found some Pro Match that are 25MM high . Hoping they will fit !!

Ostach24 10-12-2011 11:32 AM

you can make taller ones fit by putting a longer screw down through the thumb screw into the post. not sure about out of the box though.

Bus 10-12-2011 11:58 AM

Gents need some suggestions first time with a B44.1 but ive been racing for years.

Im currently geared at 22/81 and the drive train feels as free as one can get. Gear mesh a little snug but ill loosen that. Running a Novak 10.5 with Tekin RS boosted about 40%. Drag brake 20 pretty much what Tekin racers are running from their web site!

My temps are extreme Hot running 240 or better and obvious reasons my motor is slowing down due to heat.

Any suggestions?

Take boost out?
Smaller Pinion?

I know its going to be hard by not looking at the car but....im stomped!

Ostach24 10-12-2011 12:48 PM


Originally Posted by Bus (Post 9773089)
Gents need some suggestions first time with a B44.1 but ive been racing for years.

Im currently geared at 22/81 and the drive train feels as free as one can get. Gear mesh a little snug but ill loosen that. Running a Novak 10.5 with Tekin RS boosted about 40%. Drag brake 20 pretty much what Tekin racers are running from their web site!

My temps are extreme Hot running 240 or better and obvious reasons my motor is slowing down due to heat.

Any suggestions?

Take boost out?
Smaller Pinion?

I know its going to be hard by not looking at the car but....im stomped!

Take boost off and drag brake off and run for 3 mins and see what temps are. If you are continually running 240 I would be surprised if the motor wasnt ruined already. Also check and make sure there are vent holes that allow the motor to get air. I know when I switched to the .1 with same gearing my motor ran hotter just because no air flows around the motor. the chassis traps the heat because there is no hole now.

I would then change a pinion if the motor is still hot.

and definitely make sure the mesh is not tight, it will make things hotter too. how big of a track?

Kenton 10-12-2011 02:45 PM


Originally Posted by Ostach24 (Post 9772987)
you can make taller ones fit by putting a longer screw down through the thumb screw into the post. not sure about out of the box though.


Does anyone have the maximum battery heigth measurement ?? Pretty Please ??

I would like to order my batteries so they are ready when my build is done .

goin2drt 10-12-2011 05:07 PM


Originally Posted by Kenton (Post 9773729)
Does anyone have the maximum battery heigth measurement ?? Pretty Please ??

I would like to order my batteries so they are ready when my build is done .

Any saddle pack will work. The higher MAH batteries are a bit bigger but you can still run them with simple mod to battery post.

goin2drt 10-12-2011 05:10 PM


Originally Posted by Bus (Post 9773089)
Gents need some suggestions first time with a B44.1 but ive been racing for years.

Im currently geared at 22/81 and the drive train feels as free as one can get. Gear mesh a little snug but ill loosen that. Running a Novak 10.5 with Tekin RS boosted about 40%. Drag brake 20 pretty much what Tekin racers are running from their web site!

My temps are extreme Hot running 240 or better and obvious reasons my motor is slowing down due to heat.

Any suggestions?

Take boost out?
Smaller Pinion?

I know its going to be hard by not looking at the car but....im stomped!

Umm sounds like something else is wrong. I think it has got to be something binding. With a 10.5 motor that shouldn't be any gearing really that is going to get too hot or you wouldn't even be able to drive the car. I am running 8.5 with the same ESC and even a 23 pinion and my car is at 140ish after 10 minutes. I only run 10% drag and no turbo with 35 boost. Not sure if the drag brake is causing the heating.

Toiffel 10-13-2011 06:28 AM

So what's the verdict, the new body/chassis cause motors/esc to run hot? Or is it an isolated cases popping up here and there?
Finished the build and ready to hit the track, current setup RS Pro/Thunder Power 10.5 w/23 tooth (I called AE and they recommended it as a starting point), Orion Carbon Saddle Packs 5000mAh

Ostach24 10-13-2011 09:20 AM

Just cut vents on the motor side at least. I feel that the chassis ios trapping heat because there is no Vent out of the bottom anymore. Oi know when I switched running the exact motor esc batteries and pinion it ran hotter.

gee-dub 10-13-2011 09:49 AM

240 Seems rather high. Assuming the motor is still in reasonable condition and, as mentioned, there is no binding in the drivetrain, my next thought would be towards excessive timing advance. If you're running the same ESC settings as others are (successfully), then make sure you do not have your mechanical timing advance askew.

kc_nitro_rc 10-13-2011 09:55 AM


Originally Posted by Bus (Post 9773089)
Gents need some suggestions first time with a B44.1 but ive been racing for years.

Im currently geared at 22/81 and the drive train feels as free as one can get. Gear mesh a little snug but ill loosen that. Running a Novak 10.5 with Tekin RS boosted about 40%. Drag brake 20 pretty much what Tekin racers are running from their web site!

My temps are extreme Hot running 240 or better and obvious reasons my motor is slowing down due to heat.

Any suggestions?

Take boost out?
Smaller Pinion?

I know its going to be hard by not looking at the car but....im stomped!

Check the end bell timing on the motor. The Novak might be set to 30'. Most Tekin motors are about 12-15' out of the box.

Ostach24 10-13-2011 02:01 PM

hey good point, totally forgot about this. I know on my 10.5 in 2wd buggy I retarded timing on the can, thinking it would make the motor run a little slower and cool it down, but it actually went in the opposite direstion. It make the motor run like crap and get hotter. I was running around 150 and after I went to 165. I went back to the stock 30 degree timing and bumped the epa back on the radio and dropped temps to 130 and still sun great lap times.

jrusso3 10-13-2011 02:06 PM


Originally Posted by Toiffel (Post 9776335)
So what's the verdict, the new body/chassis cause motors/esc to run hot? Or is it an isolated cases popping up here and there?
Finished the build and ready to hit the track, current setup RS Pro/Thunder Power 10.5 w/23 tooth (I called AE and they recommended it as a starting point), Orion Carbon Saddle Packs 5000mAh

No issues with heat on mine BBQ.. see you next week at the track.. :D

TJMac 10-14-2011 05:06 PM


Originally Posted by djbclk430 (Post 9712618)
I am running stock spur 81t and 18 pin with an 8.5t and overheating what should i run with an 8.5t which spur and pin i run on small track tight turns rythem sec and 1 straitway? any help would be appreciated THANKS!

What motor? I've been told the LRP X12s run hot and I can tell you, my 8.5 X12 does. I have yet to have it shut down but after 15 minutes its on fire (81/20). I have both front vents completely cut out and holes drilled on the backside at the top of the body behind the windows.

Jeauxkor 10-15-2011 09:59 AM

Im new to the B44. I just built two of them and spent lots of time painting my bodies and undertray only to find out they dont fit my chassis. I have the regular B44 not the .1. I assume the chassis is different length? The undertray is for a 44 but the bodies are for 44.1. Suggestions?


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