As per the manual. On the CVA that goes into the gearbox, there is one shim on the outside of each bearing. On the Outdrives, there are two shims insided the bearing on the long side and 4 shims inside the bearing on the short side. Is that what your looking for?

If you just built it, it's going to be a little gritty. Just comes that way from the molds from the factory. Stick a 6.5 in there and grab some throttle, it'll smooth out.:sneaky:

ya, if its a new car then your good, just put a new set of gears in my car per the manual and it stripped them in 2 minutes, but i have some miles on my car too...now im running 6 on one side a 2 on the other

Thanks fastchevy and Tyler, that makes me feel better. :sweat:

Other than that, the build is going great. :D

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...emon07/RCs.jpg

What do you guys think ??

med bight clay, sometimes wet, sometimes dry. Sometimes clean, or a little dust.

i love it best motor I've run
 

it runs great i have had it in mine for about 2weeks and been to the track 4 times i run between 8 to 10 min and i have the temps coming off at about 140s the highest was 154 and my tc spec esc comes off at like 120 it has a wicked power band tones of tq and i have it a 1-2-2-4 setting with the 4version firmware also i am running it with 80% throttle setting on my transmitter and I'm still hitting triples with ease and the response of throttle is great very with plenty of power enough to tune it down X-20+++++

it runs great for me
 

it runs great i have had it in mine for about 2weeks and been to the track 4 times i run between 8 to 10 min and i have the temps coming off at about 140s the highest was 154 and my tc spec esc comes off at like 120 it has a wicked power band tones of tq and i have it a 1-2-2-4 setting with the 4version firmware also i am running it with 80% throttle setting on my transmitter and I'm still hitting triples with ease and the response of throttle is great very with plenty of power enough to tune it down X-20+++++

Word, maby his settings or gearing was off or somethin

FYI I usually end up shimmed 6 and 4. It depends on the gearboxes, but for a while there was a batch that needed less shims (4 and 2). Keep the same split and add 1 shim to each side to take out all side play. Input shaft shimmed 1 and 1 is good to go.

servo offset
 

I am just about done with the build and am having a problem with my Hitec servo being rubbed by the servo link.

I noticed at various times there is a rash of comments on this thread about servo links rubbing on the servo, but no real solution other than using different servos.

Are there any real solutions if I already have a servo and don't want to buy a new one? Removing the black spacer might give me enough clearance. Is there anything wrong with mounting the servo diretly to the aluminum servo mounts?

If removing the servo shims is not a good idea, and new servo is the only/best option, what servos are known to fit?

You can remove the shim if you need to, it's simply there as a fine tune adjustment to the steering link angle.

Most of the problem is that the holes in the chassis plate are too far forward, so if taking out the spacers doesn't help (like it didn't for me), you can try to file a little bit of the bump away from the steering rack arm. The only final cures are to elongate the holes in the chassis, get a different chassis plate(which may have the same problem), or get a different servo.

I've looked at 3 different chassis plates in addition to my own. ALL 4 had the holes in different places not only N/S, but E/W as well in reference to all the other holes in the chassis (which all lined up fine). One was so bad the guy resorted to shaved plastic mounts and bolts/nuts to hold the servo to the mounts to get enough clearance with a "known to fit" servo (AE brand servo).

There's a serious problem with either the CNC program for the drilling of these holes, or the indexing of the carbon plate in the drilling fixture.

Other than that issue, I really like the car.

Removing that shim was enough for the steering arm to clear the servo. Thanks!

Anyone have any gearing & timing recommendations for my car with an orion R10 pro and VST pro 13.5. Track is med-high bite with a 95 foot straight

We are running full timing as well

Turner I run 78/25 at our track,Boost only, set at about 35-38 deg (my speedpassion only lets you go to 62 Or 64 deg) Great speed, great punch. I come off at 145-150 after 10-15 min of practice.

i have built 2 ..... u need to dremel a little off of the steering link behind the part that "ball stud" rubs. keep taking a lil off at a time till you can barely see light between the two then stop. always works for me!!

i am new to this b44.1 and need to ask this thing about batery sadle packs

they are sadle packs, the size is normally 69x47x25.1mm. come in 7.4v each
but the question is about the conections...

it goes one - from one cell to the other cell +
And the other + from one cell and the other - from other cell goes to the plug.

this gives 14,8v of power? or double the mah?
i am getting very suspicious thats a 4s configuration... that is overkill for a 1/10 car. Am i wrong? Overkill is good :)

Each PAck is actually only 1s when you put them toghether thats when there 2s.

+1 each saddle pack has 2 batteries. One battery is 1s the other is also 1s this =2s lipo 7.4v. Also same goes for the Mah rating. Lets say i have a 5200mah Lipo saddle pack well one of the batteries has 2600mah and the other battery has 2600mah. Simple just divide the mah rating by 2 hope this helped.

You're half right. Each battery of a 5000mah saddle pack is 1s 3.7v 5000mah.

There are 4 lipo cells involved in a saddle pack. For example, on a 4200mah, 2cell, 7.4v saddle pac..... Each side of the pac has two cells wired in series for 7.4v nominal. The individual side is good for 2100mah at 7.4v. Then these two sides are wired in parallel to yield the final mah.

Dont believe me? There is a person with the screen name duster 360. He has posted many messages about wiring. Look him up.

No. A 2S (not 2S2P) saddle pack has two lipo cells total. One in each of the two packs. Each pack is 3.7v @ whatever the mah is for the entire battery. EX: AE 5200mah 7.4 saddle pack - each of the two packs is 1s (one lipo cell), 3.7v, 5200mah. If each of the two packs contained two lipo cells you would need two balance leads ( they only use one) and in fact, you can charge each pack separately without using a balance lead (nothing to balance as its one lipo cell).

Yeah I've read his posts, and he's right. A 2S2P lipo does indeed have four lipo cells. The problem is they aren't all 2S2P.

That is what I have just learned. I looked at several packs. The Reedy pack I looked at was two cells, the Orion I looked at is available in a variety of configurations, The Protek saddle pack I just looked at on Amainhobbies.com is listed as a 3P2S, which is depicted in the diagram below. SO in fact you can have 1, 2 or 3 cells per side, and still get the 7.4v, and one balance connector.

Take a look at http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/lipo.html. You can play around with different types of configs. Pretty interesting.

Attachment 913757

1,2,3 cells per side? Wow!....lmao

How about a link to the site you are using for this info? LOL never mind:blush:

Ok guys so I have a Orion vortex R10 pro in my b4 right now I am running a 17.5 in it but I will soon to be putting in 8.5t. My question is I was going to buy the vortex r10 race with a 6.5t in my b44. Would it be better to put the pro in the b44 or will the race be fine.

Also what is the big diff between the pro and the race? Thanks for your help q

Anybody know what parts are needed to use the big bore kyosho shocks?? I already have them and there not mounting to the shock tower properly, also how many mm of downtravel limiters do i need in them??

What length shocks did you buy? 30mm fronts and 38mm rears? You may need to get some longer screws and space them away from the tower, but other than that they should fit just fine. Look back a few pages page 116 #1737 and check out my pics with my standard velvets with BB springs on them. I put 2 limiters in the back and one up front to keep the dog bones from popping out. I used the losi bottom cups and associated 1779 FT shock eyes to get the right lengths and travel needed. I've also been using losi yellow rear springs and blue fronts. I hope this helps.

Havnt measured them but it says complete big bore shock set for rb5 and zx5.

Those should work fine then.

Ok thanks , i must be missing something

What top caps are you using? Use the longer ones on the front if necessary.

Not sure what u mean

on the black parts tree was there both short and tall top caps? (top shock cap with eyelet)

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ront-Shock-Set

Yes there is

just bought myself a b44.1 off another forum. Before I scour this thread for information, what's a good base setup for me to work from?

neither one of those caps even work on the b44.1 blue eyelet holders up top so i dont get what your saying here. longer nor shorter caps work plus how would the mounting screw even have something to screw into???

no they dont work some type of modification needs to be done on the top shock mounts for them to work. Id like to hear from somebody on here thats actually done this.

You take the associated blue eyelet holders and hardware and throw it into the garbage!! Get some longer bolts, I used blue ball stud washers, space the shocks away from the towers. I also used the small losi lock nuts to retain them. I'm not saying you might not have to relief the shock tower in the inside corner but I still think they should bolt right up with little to no modifications. Did you look at my pics? The only thing associated I re-used was the bottom shock eyelet and bottom mounting bolt.