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-   -   B44.1 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/441523-b44-1-thread.html)

Yeti AS3 04-17-2012 02:48 PM


Originally Posted by dekar058 (Post 10616598)
Hey can anyone tell me which wheel hexes and rims are the best setup for the b44.1? Thanks for your help in advance.

Derek

Use the JConcepts B4 hexes on the rear.

dekar058 04-17-2012 03:30 PM


Originally Posted by Yeti AS3 (Post 10616663)
Use the JConcepts B4 hexes on the rear.

What about the front?

Jason Turner 04-17-2012 05:00 PM

It already has hexes on the front. There isn't any other ones that I know of

TJMac 04-17-2012 06:30 PM

Speaking of hexes....
 
You think AE will come out with their own rear 12mm hex buggy wheel? Seems odd they did the fronts for the B4.1 but no rears while both JC and Proline make fronts and rears.

zipperfoot 04-17-2012 10:21 PM


Originally Posted by forcewave (Post 10585512)
I am using Orion packs...

Here is what I do know, the screws that came with the kit that I used blue loctite on have either stripped out the head or have broken the cheaper tools I had purchased (team integy titanium nitride). In all cases I have had to drill out the screw.

Next up is the company not providing proper battery standoffs to fit available saddle packs. How hard would it be to make the posts longer? Hell it took me less than 30 minutes to cut 4 pieces of all-thread. For a kit that costs almost 400 dollars I feel this is unacceptable.

Then we have the central upper support which again I have to modify to fit the jumper cable. There is no reason they couldn't cut reliefs within the support for these from the factory to better facilitate all saddle packs. Again for the price I don't see why they couldn't do this.

Now to simply fix the problems associated with my kit I must purchase additional screws from them, more battery standoffs, make extensive modifications to the upper support, and probably replace the lower plate as it was damaged while removing screws.

I honestly don't feel like this was all user error as well. I have had many hours of experience building sports cars and off road vehicles. I work with tools on an almost daily basis. I followed the instructions and was careful to ensure everything was built to specification.

This is in addition to the minor issues I am having adjusting the front of the car to remove the binding within the steering. All in all I would say my experience thus far has been poor at best.

Everything you desribe seems to stem from batteries that are too tall. Instead of spending more dollars to modify the car how about purchasing a battery that fits? I believe 25mm is the tallest you want to run. As far as the front binding, did you install the set screws in the cvd's? They come with the kit but are not used. I know more than one person that made that mistake.

I have built four of these kits and never had any of the problems you describe. I dont think its fair to blame the kit. The only fault I can see is AE does not suggest a battery size in the manual. Also the suggestion to heat up a part to thin the locktite will save you a lot of drilling and broken tips.

fastchvy 04-17-2012 11:21 PM


Originally Posted by zipperfoot (Post 10618796)
Everything you desribe seems to stem from batteries that are too tall. Instead of spending more dollars to modify the car how about purchasing a battery that fits? I believe 25mm is the tallest you want to run. As far as the front binding, did you install the set screws in the cvd's? They come with the kit but are not used. I know more than one person that made that mistake.

I have built four of these kits and never had any of the problems you describe. I dont think its fair to blame the kit. The only fault I can see is AE does not suggest a battery size in the manual. Also the suggestion to heat up a part to thin the locktite will save you a lot of drilling and broken tips.

The set screws in the cvd's dont get used?

t0p_sh0tta 04-18-2012 05:27 AM

You don't have to use the set screw. You could just use the snap ring with a dab of CA to keep the pins in.

I don't like that idea, so I use the set screws with a little thread-lock, and glue the rings just in case. lol, beyond that, I run Durango outdrive boots (packed with grease) that also help keep it all together.

D3mOnIcRc8e 04-18-2012 05:56 AM

What wing do you guys use or like best for the B44.1, i was thinking of getting the Illuzion 6.5" Wide Hi-Clearance Wing what do you guys think about it??

Tyler Keel 04-18-2012 06:34 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Here's mine from the Jconcepts Spring Indoor Nationals this weekend. 3rd overall qualifier in Open 4WD.

TJMac 04-18-2012 06:07 PM


Originally Posted by D3mOnIcRc8e (Post 10619636)
What wing do you guys use or like best for the B44.1, i was thinking of getting the Illuzion 6.5" Wide Hi-Clearance Wing what do you guys think about it??

I run them. I don't know if it's the batch I got or if JC is doing it on purpose, but the hi-clearance wing seems to be made from a thicker sheet....which is good because I'm on my lid a lot :D

-WHEELMAN- 04-19-2012 01:04 AM


Originally Posted by Tyler Keel (Post 10619785)
Here's mine from the Jconcepts Spring Indoor Nationals this weekend. 3rd overall qualifier in Open 4WD.

Very nice!!! Keep the pics coming guys!!!

Originally Posted by TJMac (Post 10617752)
You think AE will come out with their own rear 12mm hex buggy wheel? Seems odd they did the fronts for the B4.1 but no rears while both JC and Proline make fronts and rears.

They have a front hex wheel for the B4.1 I am very surprised if they don't have a rear for the B44.1/B4.1 with hex's?? Hmm I'll look into that!

SuperRC 04-19-2012 06:11 AM


Originally Posted by forcewave (Post 10585312)
I've had nothing but issues since I finally recieved my batteries. First I have to extend the damn posts to make the batteries fit then I have to make space so the jumper cable between the two packs fits. I've still got suspension binding in the front end while turning. To top it all off I used blue loctite per their recommendation and I have broken 2 tools off trying to remove screws. Now I'm having to drill out screws I don't even have replacements for. I've put lord knows how many hours into it and still can't run the damn thing. So I've got a 1200 dollar paper weight sitting on my workbench. You can't even begin to imagine how pissed off I am, I baught what was considered the best for a reason. I can't sell the damn thing because I'd just lose money, and yet now I don't even want to work on it.

Sorry to hear you are having these problems. Firstly, as for those orion saddle pack batteries, you may have bought the wrong sized ones. I did the exact same thing recently, a hobby store sold me orion saddle packs that i thought looked too big for the B44.1, and they were, I returned them and purchased other orion saddles 5500mAh 90C, they fit fine.
And secondly, another thing regarding the blue thread lock. You only need the smallest dab when using it. Its not used to 'glue' screws in, but to stop vibration of metal to metal contact that causes them to undo. Again, ive stripped screw heads becuase of this too, now i know just to use a dab. And as suggested, use heat to undo parts with thread lock, it works.
You shouldnt have to modify any parts on the car, it works the way it's designed. Good luck with the build :)

TJMac 04-19-2012 09:55 AM


Originally Posted by -WHEELMAN- (Post 10623867)
Very nice!!! Keep the pics coming guys!!!

They have a front hex wheel for the B4.1 I am very surprised if they don't have a rear for the B44.1/B4.1 with hex's?? Hmm I'll look into that!

Yeah I'm running the hexes on my B4.1. I really hope AE comes out with rears so I don't have to switch wheels completely.

rigor 04-19-2012 11:49 AM

Hello B44 peeps,

I raced mod 2WD buggy for several years back in the old days of the RC10 Team / Worlds kits, circa early 90's. I got a lightly used B4.1 off this site and have been practicing a lot for the past 6 weeks. Surprisingly, my previous race experience really helped me get driving good again pretty quickly.

Now that I'm not a teenage kid and can pay for this hobby myself, I'm really eager to try 1/10 4WD buggy. I'm still trying to keep the costs down as I have a family these days.

What I really want to know is: If I can get a good condition B44 for around $150 vs a clean B44.1 for around $220, which is the better route ? In the long run, will that extra $70 really provide me with a better kit re-build and/or tuning performance experience ? Keep in mind this will probably be the only car I have and run for quite some time. I've read the differences and which parts are new and upgraded on the .1 , but have no real world experience with any recent car aside from the B4.1 ... which was quite dialed the way I got it.

Thanks!

kdub 04-19-2012 12:12 PM


Originally Posted by rigor (Post 10625779)
Hello B44 peeps,

I raced mod 2WD buggy for several years back in the old days of the RC10 Team / Worlds kits, circa early 90's. I got a lightly used B4.1 off this site and have been practicing a lot for the past 6 weeks. Surprisingly, my previous race experience really helped me get driving good again pretty quickly.

Now that I'm not a teenage kid and can pay for this hobby myself, I'm really eager to try 1/10 4WD buggy. I'm still trying to keep the costs down as I have a family these days.

What I really want to know is: If I can get a good condition B44 for around $150 vs a clean B44.1 for around $220, which is the better route ? In the long run, will that extra $70 really provide me with a better kit re-build and/or tuning performance experience ? Keep in mind this will probably be the only car I have and run for quite some time. I've read the differences and which parts are new and upgraded on the .1 , but have no real world experience with any recent car aside from the B4.1 ... which was quite dialed the way I got it.

Thanks!

The 44.1 comes with the LiPo specific chassis and battery tray (as well as having the option to run bolt on weight ballast. The B44 as-is has a tray for cells, and I think it's $20-30 to get the LiPo tray to upgrade, plus you still have the cell slots in the chassis, and the B44 chassis is wider up front. Not to mention the motor mount alone is worth the upgrade.

I would go 44.1 to get the dialed chassis, motor mount, V2 shocks, bleeder caps, and LiPo ready...

Kurt

rigor 04-19-2012 12:23 PM


Originally Posted by kdub (Post 10625876)
The 44.1 comes with the LiPo specific chassis and battery tray (as well as having the option to run bolt on weight ballast. The B44 as-is has a tray for cells, and I think it's $20-30 to get the LiPo tray to upgrade, plus you still have the cell slots in the chassis, and the B44 chassis is wider up front. Not to mention the motor mount alone is worth the upgrade.

I would go 44.1 to get the dialed chassis, motor mount, V2 shocks, bleeder caps, and LiPo ready...

Kurt

That's what my gut is telling me as well - get the B44.1

I've read a few times the .1 motor mount is far better, and it will be nice to have the other upgrades, as well as just knowing I don't have the many year old model.

Thanks

bergie33 04-19-2012 02:08 PM

Schumacher Cat SX2 to B44.1?
 
I am currently running a Schumacher Cat SX2. I love the car, the build, the durability, etc. I am, however, the lone Schumacher at the track, no tuning support, no parts support (have to order from A-Main) and still learning to drive the car with a 13.5 without breaking parts, so it is starting to take its toll.

I am considering switching over to a B44.1 for the parts support and tunning support from other drivers. I am a little concerned about a few things:

1) Durability issues with the B44.1...will I be breaking a lot more parts as I continue to learn to drive.

2) Driveability of the B44.1 vs the Cat, will I notice a huge difference? (I am not pushing the Cat to the limit yet, so maybe the switch now would be easier than if I were to get really good with it and switch later)

FYI, the track I drive on is indoor med-high bite clay.

I am looking for some opinions and guideance. I figured I might get a little more unbiased help here than on the Cat thread.

idrummerboy13 04-19-2012 03:43 PM

i c on steve h's setup he flipped the steering rack, what does that exactly mean? flip it over or turn it around? What does this do?







Originally Posted by bergie33 (Post 10626262)
I am currently running a Schumacher Cat SX2. I love the car, the build, the durability, etc. I am, however, the lone Schumacher at the track, no tuning support, no parts support
.

yea, if you have local part support, and help from locals its the car to get. It is very durable but of course if you crash right it will break front arm, and i have seen front shock shafts breaking. Pic up some extra shims and shim your diff tight. Thats all you need=]

Skinny_j 04-19-2012 05:37 PM


Originally Posted by bergie33 (Post 10626262)
I am currently running a Schumacher Cat SX2. I love the car, the build, the durability, etc. I am, however, the lone Schumacher at the track, no tuning support, no parts support (have to order from A-Main) and still learning to drive the car with a 13.5 without breaking parts, so it is starting to take its toll.

I am considering switching over to a B44.1 for the parts support and tunning support from other drivers. I am a little concerned about a few things:

1) Durability issues with the B44.1...will I be breaking a lot more parts as I continue to learn to drive.

2) Driveability of the B44.1 vs the Cat, will I notice a huge difference? (I am not pushing the Cat to the limit yet, so maybe the switch now would be easier than if I were to get really good with it and switch later)

FYI, the track I drive on is indoor med-high bite clay.

I am looking for some opinions and guideance. I figured I might get a little more unbiased help here than on the Cat thread.

Hey, I think I spoke with you one of the first times at our track and i'm from sandy aswell. Being I've never driven a cat I can't comment on the handling differences. But if you look all the top Wheeler drivers are running 44.1s. (I run the orange one btw). As cool as the cats look there just isn't any parts fordriving. them here in the valley. Jeff has every part you can buy for the 44 right at the front counter. Durability wise they are very durable. A arms bresk here and there and so do shock shafts, all can be remedied by better driving..
Setup wise, box stock setup always works on our track. And if you buy it from ir-cr Jeff will throw in a month of free practice and racing.

Skinny_j 04-19-2012 05:38 PM

Gotta love autocorrect on my phone

bergie33 04-19-2012 05:57 PM


Originally Posted by Skinny_j (Post 10627013)
Hey, I think I spoke with you one of the first times at our track and i'm from sandy aswell. Being I've never driven a cat I can't comment on the handling differences. But if you look all the top Wheeler drivers are running 44.1s. (I run the orange one btw). As cool as the cats look there just isn't any parts fordriving. them here in the valley. Jeff has every part you can buy for the 44 right at the front counter. Durability wise they are very durable. A arms bresk here and there and so do shock shafts, all can be remedied by better driving..
Setup wise, box stock setup always works on our track. And if you buy it from ir-cr Jeff will throw in a month of free practice and racing.

Hi Jake. Yeah, I broke a shock shaft last week on the Cat. As soon as I think I have a good stock of parts, I break something that I didn't anticipate. I guess if the Cat was that much better, it would be more popular and the parts would be more readily available, right? Thanks for your input. Maybe I'll let you drive my Cat and you can give me your opinion. I will come see you next time I am there (after I get back from working in California).

zipperfoot 04-21-2012 07:38 AM


Originally Posted by rigor (Post 10625779)
Hello B44 peeps,

I raced mod 2WD buggy for several years back in the old days of the RC10 Team / Worlds kits, circa early 90's. I got a lightly used B4.1 off this site and have been practicing a lot for the past 6 weeks. Surprisingly, my previous race experience really helped me get driving good again pretty quickly.

Now that I'm not a teenage kid and can pay for this hobby myself, I'm really eager to try 1/10 4WD buggy. I'm still trying to keep the costs down as I have a family these days.

What I really want to know is: If I can get a good condition B44 for around $150 vs a clean B44.1 for around $220, which is the better route ? In the long run, will that extra $70 really provide me with a better kit re-build and/or tuning performance experience ? Keep in mind this will probably be the only car I have and run for quite some time. I've read the differences and which parts are new and upgraded on the .1 , but have no real world experience with any recent car aside from the B4.1 ... which was quite dialed the way I got it.

Thanks!

My vote is for the 44.1 The v2 shocks and new motor mount are worth the price of admission alone.

zipperfoot 04-21-2012 07:47 AM


Originally Posted by bergie33 (Post 10626262)
I am currently running a Schumacher Cat SX2. I love the car, the build, the durability, etc. I am, however, the lone Schumacher at the track, no tuning support, no parts support (have to order from A-Main) and still learning to drive the car with a 13.5 without breaking parts, so it is starting to take its toll.

I am considering switching over to a B44.1 for the parts support and tunning support from other drivers. I am a little concerned about a few things:

1) Durability issues with the B44.1...will I be breaking a lot more parts as I continue to learn to drive.

2) Driveability of the B44.1 vs the Cat, will I notice a huge difference? (I am not pushing the Cat to the limit yet, so maybe the switch now would be easier than if I were to get really good with it and switch later)

FYI, the track I drive on is indoor med-high bite clay.

I am looking for some opinions and guideance. I figured I might get a little more unbiased help here than on the Cat thread.

I had the same problem when I ran a Durango 410. No parts, support, etc.

On the other hand I sold my last 44.1 out of frustration. I was breaking front arms and shock shafts once a week. The issue was not just my driving either. At the Cactus this year I watched 2 44.1's break front shafts in the same race and these were A main pro drivers. At least you can buy all the parts you need. I feel its a trade off. A great handling but somewhat fragile car. I guess it depends on your driving style. I am more of a go for the quad kind of driver.

I also feel your reasoning for switching may be reversed. The more you drive and the better you drive eventually it wont make a difference what brand you drive. Maifield or Cav would lap me driving a rtr with a nicad battery and foam tires.

vicdamone11 04-21-2012 10:46 AM

The 44.1 is a great car pretty much dialed out of the box. I havent boke in arm in Weeks and since changin to bb springs I havent broken a shaft since December. All the Wheelers will break when u clip a wall or pipe with a wide open 6.5 imo. Stay smooth and clean and youll be fine. At my home track I race against a bunch of kyoshos n some rangos and they break just as often.

t0p_sh0tta 04-21-2012 11:16 AM


Originally Posted by vicdamone11 (Post 10633755)
All the Wheelers will break when u clip a wall or pipe with a wide open 6.5 imo.

This.

Hit something hard enough and anything will break. As one of the locals says, "suck less."

Mini8 Menace 04-21-2012 05:38 PM

front shocks keep blowing out
 
2 Attachment(s)
i just ran my .1 for the first time at a track today handled great i just kept blowing the e-clip on the top of the shock piston and shaft it happened to me 3 times and ended up leaving a little early cause it kept blowing out any suggestions on what might be the problem i run 40 wt in the ft and 30 wt int the r i decided to buy some different e-clips to see if i can figure it out any help let me know

Mini8 Menace 04-21-2012 05:53 PM

car runs great
 
2 Attachment(s)
hey guys car runs great after about ten min of run time I'm coming off with temps in the 140s with the motor and the power band is great lots of tq i updated the firmware and i have it set a 1-2-2-4 lrp tc the hitec 7940 is a beast of a servo in the setup no noise very responsive everything is good but i just ran it for the first time at a track today handled great i just kept blowing the e-clip on the top of the shock piston and shaft it happened to me 3 times and ended up leaving a little early cause it kept blowing out any suggestions on what might be the problem i run 40 wt in the ft and 30 wt int the r i decided to buy some different e-clips to see if i can figure it out any help let me know

dspoo2 04-21-2012 06:54 PM

sounds like a bad shock shaft

JakeC351 04-21-2012 07:41 PM

Have my b44.1 for sale guys.
260 As a roller only been ran for 10 minutes.
Its as good as new.
Comes with a few tires.
PM me for pics and more info.
Thanks,
Jake

9six7nine2bOI 04-22-2012 11:46 PM


Originally Posted by Mini8 Menace (Post 10634828)
hey guys car runs great after about ten min of run time I'm coming off with temps in the 140s with the motor and the power band is great lots of tq i updated the firmware and i have it set a 1-2-2-4 lrp tc the hitec 7940 is a beast of a servo in the setup no noise very responsive everything is good but i just ran it for the first time at a track today handled great i just kept blowing the e-clip on the top of the shock piston and shaft it happened to me 3 times and ended up leaving a little early cause it kept blowing out any suggestions on what might be the problem i run 40 wt in the ft and 30 wt int the r i decided to buy some different e-clips to see if i can figure it out any help let me know

get b44 v1 shocks:smile:

79kmc 04-22-2012 11:53 PM

Hey guys I just bought a new spur gear a j concepts silencer 78t couldn't get an 81t, im going to put an 8.5 in got a 7.5 venom motor in at the moment with a 20t pinion just wondering what pinion should i use with the smaller spur gear

cheers

Mini8 Menace 04-23-2012 10:52 AM

what type of shocks to run
 
2 Attachment(s)
i just finished my kit and raced this past sat and i had to keep rebuilding my ft shocks the piston kept blowing off any info on why would be great what type of shocks to use what about the kyosho shocks or what other ones would work

idrummerboy13 04-23-2012 01:54 PM

Tried out hart sons setup and really make my car a handful. Loose and oversteer. I think I will try the worlds finland setup next. Not much differences tho.:roll eyes:

uN4RACING! could I possibly get a look at your setup sheet and try that out?:sneaky:




Originally Posted by Mini8 Menace (Post 10641802)
i just finished my kit and raced this past sat and i had to keep rebuilding my ft shocks the piston kept blowing off any info on why would be great what type of shocks to use what about the kyosho shocks or what other ones would work

Make sure you are popping them on and hearing a nice click when the get on, double check with your nail to see if it is loose, make sure the right e clips are used and your shock shaft is ok and not bent or worn out. The stock shocks on this car are fine and work really nicely.:tire:

fastchvy 04-23-2012 07:53 PM

Guy,

what are your track conditions?...I'm running the Cavalerie set up from the reedy race....

fastchvy 04-23-2012 07:58 PM

can anybody give feedback on the lrp x20 yet?

rickybobbyxxx 04-23-2012 08:38 PM

Saw one run this weekend, not impressed, stick with reedy or trinity

fastchvy 04-23-2012 08:40 PM

i run the lrp x12 6.5 and its fast as heck, i was just trying to see if the had more torque

rickybobbyxxx 04-23-2012 08:45 PM

Just my observation, he was gettin murderd on big straitaway

bergie33 04-23-2012 09:35 PM

Working on my FT build...
 
The transmission gears seem to mesh really rough. I used 1 drop of diff lube on each gear, they just seem loud and rough. Is that normal? Will they smooth out? I double checked the shims, made sure the transmission housing wasn't too tight.

fastchvy 04-23-2012 09:36 PM


Originally Posted by bergie33 (Post 10644747)
The transmission gears seem to mesh really rough. I used 1 drop of diff lube on each gear, they just seem loud and rough. Is that normal? Will they smooth out? I double checked the shims, made sure the transmission housing wasn't too tight.

how do you have it shimmed?


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