Originally Posted by dekar058 (Post 10616598)

Hey can anyone tell me which wheel hexes and rims are the best setup for the b44.1? Thanks for your help in advance.

Derek

Originally Posted by Yeti AS3 (Post 10616663)

Use the JConcepts B4 hexes on the rear.

Originally Posted by forcewave (Post 10585512)

I am using Orion packs...

Here is what I do know, the screws that came with the kit that I used blue loctite on have either stripped out the head or have broken the cheaper tools I had purchased (team integy titanium nitride). In all cases I have had to drill out the screw.

Next up is the company not providing proper battery standoffs to fit available saddle packs. How hard would it be to make the posts longer? Hell it took me less than 30 minutes to cut 4 pieces of all-thread. For a kit that costs almost 400 dollars I feel this is unacceptable.

Then we have the central upper support which again I have to modify to fit the jumper cable. There is no reason they couldn't cut reliefs within the support for these from the factory to better facilitate all saddle packs. Again for the price I don't see why they couldn't do this.

Now to simply fix the problems associated with my kit I must purchase additional screws from them, more battery standoffs, make extensive modifications to the upper support, and probably replace the lower plate as it was damaged while removing screws.

I honestly don't feel like this was all user error as well. I have had many hours of experience building sports cars and off road vehicles. I work with tools on an almost daily basis. I followed the instructions and was careful to ensure everything was built to specification.

This is in addition to the minor issues I am having adjusting the front of the car to remove the binding within the steering. All in all I would say my experience thus far has been poor at best.

Originally Posted by zipperfoot (Post 10618796)

Everything you desribe seems to stem from batteries that are too tall. Instead of spending more dollars to modify the car how about purchasing a battery that fits? I believe 25mm is the tallest you want to run. As far as the front binding, did you install the set screws in the cvd's? They come with the kit but are not used. I know more than one person that made that mistake.

I have built four of these kits and never had any of the problems you describe. I dont think its fair to blame the kit. The only fault I can see is AE does not suggest a battery size in the manual. Also the suggestion to heat up a part to thin the locktite will save you a lot of drilling and broken tips.

Originally Posted by D3mOnIcRc8e (Post 10619636)

What wing do you guys use or like best for the B44.1, i was thinking of getting the Illuzion 6.5" Wide Hi-Clearance Wing what do you guys think about it??

Originally Posted by Tyler Keel (Post 10619785)

Here's mine from the Jconcepts Spring Indoor Nationals this weekend. 3rd overall qualifier in Open 4WD.

Originally Posted by TJMac (Post 10617752)

You think AE will come out with their own rear 12mm hex buggy wheel? Seems odd they did the fronts for the B4.1 but no rears while both JC and Proline make fronts and rears.

Originally Posted by forcewave (Post 10585312)

I've had nothing but issues since I finally recieved my batteries. First I have to extend the damn posts to make the batteries fit then I have to make space so the jumper cable between the two packs fits. I've still got suspension binding in the front end while turning. To top it all off I used blue loctite per their recommendation and I have broken 2 tools off trying to remove screws. Now I'm having to drill out screws I don't even have replacements for. I've put lord knows how many hours into it and still can't run the damn thing. So I've got a 1200 dollar paper weight sitting on my workbench. You can't even begin to imagine how pissed off I am, I baught what was considered the best for a reason. I can't sell the damn thing because I'd just lose money, and yet now I don't even want to work on it.

Originally Posted by -WHEELMAN- (Post 10623867)

Very nice!!! Keep the pics coming guys!!!

They have a front hex wheel for the B4.1 I am very surprised if they don't have a rear for the B44.1/B4.1 with hex's?? Hmm I'll look into that!

Originally Posted by rigor (Post 10625779)

Hello B44 peeps,

I raced mod 2WD buggy for several years back in the old days of the RC10 Team / Worlds kits, circa early 90's. I got a lightly used B4.1 off this site and have been practicing a lot for the past 6 weeks. Surprisingly, my previous race experience really helped me get driving good again pretty quickly.

Now that I'm not a teenage kid and can pay for this hobby myself, I'm really eager to try 1/10 4WD buggy. I'm still trying to keep the costs down as I have a family these days.

What I really want to know is: If I can get a good condition B44 for around $150 vs a clean B44.1 for around $220, which is the better route ? In the long run, will that extra $70 really provide me with a better kit re-build and/or tuning performance experience ? Keep in mind this will probably be the only car I have and run for quite some time. I've read the differences and which parts are new and upgraded on the .1 , but have no real world experience with any recent car aside from the B4.1 ... which was quite dialed the way I got it.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by kdub (Post 10625876)

The 44.1 comes with the LiPo specific chassis and battery tray (as well as having the option to run bolt on weight ballast. The B44 as-is has a tray for cells, and I think it's $20-30 to get the LiPo tray to upgrade, plus you still have the cell slots in the chassis, and the B44 chassis is wider up front. Not to mention the motor mount alone is worth the upgrade.

I would go 44.1 to get the dialed chassis, motor mount, V2 shocks, bleeder caps, and LiPo ready...

Kurt

Originally Posted by bergie33 (Post 10626262)

I am currently running a Schumacher Cat SX2. I love the car, the build, the durability, etc. I am, however, the lone Schumacher at the track, no tuning support, no parts support
.

Originally Posted by bergie33 (Post 10626262)

I am currently running a Schumacher Cat SX2. I love the car, the build, the durability, etc. I am, however, the lone Schumacher at the track, no tuning support, no parts support (have to order from A-Main) and still learning to drive the car with a 13.5 without breaking parts, so it is starting to take its toll.

I am considering switching over to a B44.1 for the parts support and tunning support from other drivers. I am a little concerned about a few things:

1) Durability issues with the B44.1...will I be breaking a lot more parts as I continue to learn to drive.

2) Driveability of the B44.1 vs the Cat, will I notice a huge difference? (I am not pushing the Cat to the limit yet, so maybe the switch now would be easier than if I were to get really good with it and switch later)

FYI, the track I drive on is indoor med-high bite clay.

I am looking for some opinions and guideance. I figured I might get a little more unbiased help here than on the Cat thread.

Originally Posted by Skinny_j (Post 10627013)

Hey, I think I spoke with you one of the first times at our track and i'm from sandy aswell. Being I've never driven a cat I can't comment on the handling differences. But if you look all the top Wheeler drivers are running 44.1s. (I run the orange one btw). As cool as the cats look there just isn't any parts fordriving. them here in the valley. Jeff has every part you can buy for the 44 right at the front counter. Durability wise they are very durable. A arms bresk here and there and so do shock shafts, all can be remedied by better driving..
Setup wise, box stock setup always works on our track. And if you buy it from ir-cr Jeff will throw in a month of free practice and racing.

Originally Posted by rigor (Post 10625779)

Hello B44 peeps,

I raced mod 2WD buggy for several years back in the old days of the RC10 Team / Worlds kits, circa early 90's. I got a lightly used B4.1 off this site and have been practicing a lot for the past 6 weeks. Surprisingly, my previous race experience really helped me get driving good again pretty quickly.

Now that I'm not a teenage kid and can pay for this hobby myself, I'm really eager to try 1/10 4WD buggy. I'm still trying to keep the costs down as I have a family these days.

What I really want to know is: If I can get a good condition B44 for around $150 vs a clean B44.1 for around $220, which is the better route ? In the long run, will that extra $70 really provide me with a better kit re-build and/or tuning performance experience ? Keep in mind this will probably be the only car I have and run for quite some time. I've read the differences and which parts are new and upgraded on the .1 , but have no real world experience with any recent car aside from the B4.1 ... which was quite dialed the way I got it.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by bergie33 (Post 10626262)

I am currently running a Schumacher Cat SX2. I love the car, the build, the durability, etc. I am, however, the lone Schumacher at the track, no tuning support, no parts support (have to order from A-Main) and still learning to drive the car with a 13.5 without breaking parts, so it is starting to take its toll.

I am considering switching over to a B44.1 for the parts support and tunning support from other drivers. I am a little concerned about a few things:

1) Durability issues with the B44.1...will I be breaking a lot more parts as I continue to learn to drive.

2) Driveability of the B44.1 vs the Cat, will I notice a huge difference? (I am not pushing the Cat to the limit yet, so maybe the switch now would be easier than if I were to get really good with it and switch later)

FYI, the track I drive on is indoor med-high bite clay.

I am looking for some opinions and guideance. I figured I might get a little more unbiased help here than on the Cat thread.

Originally Posted by vicdamone11 (Post 10633755)

All the Wheelers will break when u clip a wall or pipe with a wide open 6.5 imo.

Originally Posted by Mini8 Menace (Post 10634828)

hey guys car runs great after about ten min of run time I'm coming off with temps in the 140s with the motor and the power band is great lots of tq i updated the firmware and i have it set a 1-2-2-4 lrp tc the hitec 7940 is a beast of a servo in the setup no noise very responsive everything is good but i just ran it for the first time at a track today handled great i just kept blowing the e-clip on the top of the shock piston and shaft it happened to me 3 times and ended up leaving a little early cause it kept blowing out any suggestions on what might be the problem i run 40 wt in the ft and 30 wt int the r i decided to buy some different e-clips to see if i can figure it out any help let me know

Originally Posted by Mini8 Menace (Post 10641802)

i just finished my kit and raced this past sat and i had to keep rebuilding my ft shocks the piston kept blowing off any info on why would be great what type of shocks to use what about the kyosho shocks or what other ones would work

Originally Posted by bergie33 (Post 10644747)

The transmission gears seem to mesh really rough. I used 1 drop of diff lube on each gear, they just seem loud and rough. Is that normal? Will they smooth out? I double checked the shims, made sure the transmission housing wasn't too tight.