Sorry to hear this, have a bear or something...the reedy and orion battery fit the car really good that i have seen....i got some taller packs through a buddy but never installed them knowing it was going to be a problem

I am using Orion packs...

Here is what I do know, the screws that came with the kit that I used blue loctite on have either stripped out the head or have broken the cheaper tools I had purchased (team integy titanium nitride). In all cases I have had to drill out the screw.

Next up is the company not providing proper battery standoffs to fit available saddle packs. How hard would it be to make the posts longer? Hell it took me less than 30 minutes to cut 4 pieces of all-thread. For a kit that costs almost 400 dollars I feel this is unacceptable.

Then we have the central upper support which again I have to modify to fit the jumper cable. There is no reason they couldn't cut reliefs within the support for these from the factory to better facilitate all saddle packs. Again for the price I don't see why they couldn't do this.

Now to simply fix the problems associated with my kit I must purchase additional screws from them, more battery standoffs, make extensive modifications to the upper support, and probably replace the lower plate as it was damaged while removing screws.

I honestly don't feel like this was all user error as well. I have had many hours of experience building sports cars and off road vehicles. I work with tools on an almost daily basis. I followed the instructions and was careful to ensure everything was built to specification.

This is in addition to the minor issues I am having adjusting the front of the car to remove the binding within the steering. All in all I would say my experience thus far has been poor at best.

Use a lighter to heat up the screws that you used loctite on, it should soften it enough to let the screw come out easy.

I think part of the fun of the hobby is figuring out how to make things work.

You should have seen the Yokomo MR-4BX I used to run.

forcewave:

Can you run the jumper under the rear top plate? My buddy does that on his bullet connector saddles. I have small reliefs cut in mine (which reduces the strength of the plate; I wish I didn't need it) to fit the wires on my packs...

As for the posts, don't follow the instructions. Loc-tite the screws through the chassis into the posts, but do not loc-tite the long set screws into the posts. Toss the set screws and use 4-40 SHCSs that are long enough to handle your batteries. Thread the thumb screws up tight with the heads of these screws, then remove the screws from the posts with the thumb screws (or with your 3/32" hex driver) to install/remove the batteries.

Right now I'm working on having an injection mold made so I can have parts that I can actually use. What you see in the pictures is from an Objet 3D printer. The parts are fairly strong but I don't think strong enough.

Maybe if AE was interested I'd be willing to send them my Unigraphics computer model so they could try them out (in case they read these forums) :nod:


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7255/7...8eb809b51e.jpg

That isn't going to help. They suck at using hand tools and would probably end up eating you anyway.

Sorry, couldn't resist. :D

really? boo I thought it'd be a direct fit

oh well I have a spare part for when I get a b4.1

The c-hub will work. Putting a 2mm washer under the pall stud isnt that a big of a deal. When using them on the 4.1's you dremel off the nubs on the u-brace. Alot more work there.

Ive ran them on mine and have real good luck. Just trow them on and try it.

Good luck....

A little feedback....

I have been trying different big bore springs, i've tried losi green front and white rear and finally kyosho yellow front and white rear...The kyosho by far are a better spring and make the car feel great..

On another note:
I'm starting to dislike this hole ball diff situation, it seems like they dont last to long....is the bfast set up any better? I wish the had a gear diff but then again you would have to tear it down to change the oil to different weight...i want to try ceramic balls and bfast washers...

what is this c-hub or c brace i see people talking about?

The Bfast diff is the best setup out there by far. The standard AE ball diffs also last a heck of a lot longer than most others out there. Ball vs Gear diff as been a hot debate lately, personally I prefer the direct and fast tuning of the Ball diff. It's not too big a deal to pull and rebuild them every couple months. The Ceramic balls will feel like butter in the diff, the high quality Ti Nitride will feel almost as good and last longer. The hot ticket for me has been Ti Nitride diff balls and ceramic thrust balls, super smooth and great longevity.

Do you guys have the part number for the chasy guard ?? you know the seethru thing that protects the bottom.

Part #: 9773
thats the undertray from AE..

Thank You. So do most people run the under trey or the stick on sheet ?? Does the under trey also stick on or bolt on ??

http://teamassociated.com/parts/details/9873/


Lowers the outer link for lower roll center.

I run it on a dusty outdoor track. other than that i usally dont. It uses chasis screws already there. It tucks under front bumper and rear bumper also.
On a cool factor it can be painted to match your body tho. Ive seen people use the thick stick on protector also.

In my opinion its all up to the user.

That's even confusing me more...
Most drivers are running BB KYO yellow front. But if i follow the sheets on petitrc(they measured the Kyosho spings), the yellows(3.60 measured)should be way softer then the silver AE.
And for the rear, most are running KYO white, but they are measured 2.10 and quite a bit harder then the AE green ones.
So, should the car not be out of balance, if the most common setup seemed to be AE silver front/ AE green rear???? :confused:

Has anyone used these batteries ???/ They seem to be good for the price.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=17270

Would they work ??

I haven't used them but they should fit (looks like a standard saddle pack).

i have these and they work fine, pretty good punch but they work.

Use the sticker sheet

So im stuck on what batteries to get, i was thinking on the turnigy nano tech ones but then i was told gens ace batt. are better but i cant find a higher C rating than 25 on the gens ace. im looking for for like a 40c and atleast 4800mah. what do you guys think ??

the turnigy ones will work real nice for ya. Few guys locally run them with no prob. I even have a couple for my boys truck. They run them hard and have nver had a prob with them.

Honestly i run the turnigy nano 6000mah in my son losi xxx sct and the are great, he also has 2 reedy 5500mah packs and there is no difference, infact i think the nano tech has more punch...i got the 2 nano tech batteries plus the shipping to my house for 120.00....reedy pack alone was around 100.00...and if you pick 3 day shipping, i gets here in 3 days, i was shocked...im going to get a few sets for my new 44.1

So im runnign a mamba max pro with a novak 6.5 what c rating should i go with ??? i was thinking the 50c tp 100c or the 65c to 135c ??

i would go with the higher rating

Ok Cool thanks for all the info guys.

My nephew would like to run with his friends on a paved track with his b44.1,as ill be buying him a set could someone please recommend a tyre.Maybe pre mounted?He has the 12mm hex adapters.

Cheers Mat.

Can someone help me with the shimming on the diff.. I have had my b44.1 for two weeks now and have gone through two main gears on the rear diff .. I had a fs2 and never had a diff problem like this before its getting very frustrating. Can someone give me some pointers to help me with this diff problem.......

I have a BJ4 worlds edition car that has been collecting dust for the past few years. I would like to upgrade it to the B44.1 A lot of things look the same (shocks, diff, ect..). What are the exact differences? Could I simply buy the b44.1 chassis, arms and shocks towers and swap them out with the BJ4 ones?

I had the same problem, shim the diff towards the smaller pinion gear and if the pinion gear moves back and forth that could be bad also, I didn't catch that until 5 gears later, make sure that doesn't move either. Now I like to shim the transmission on the tight side so it lasts a long time.

Anybody run the lrp x20 yet?? Hows it compare to the reedy sonic or triniy duo 3???

6 on the gear side, 4 on the opposite. You want no side to side movement of the diff within the housing.

I have also had this same problem except that I was getting damage to both front and rear diffs. I was rebuilding diffs every week. The manual states to put 2 shims on one side and four on the other. I have added an extra two shims on each side. So far the front diff has behaved after 3-4 races. Although the rear has improved I think it still needs more shims. Unfortunately its a trial and error process, you may need to sactrifice a couple more bevel diff gears before you find your right fit.

I can't rember how many shims came in the kit, but I probably added 3 or 4 more over that to get it snug.

Man you guys scared me about the diffs so I pulled mine apart. I have about 15 races on mine now and they still look like brand new!! I guess I'm the lucky one. My concern and only thing I don't like about the car so far is the steering rack. Whats up with all the play when steering all the way left or right? Something just doesn't seem right.

Thanks guys for all the help with the diff I put 6 on one side and 4 on the other side and it feels alot better so we will see how it works this weekend... Thanks again guys...

Welcome to Associated sir.

Man im poretty pissed off, i ordered the neotech batteries from hobbyking and i have yet to get them or get a traking number that works. i hit up the costomer support like 3 days ago and they still have not gotten back to me. Ugh this is bull.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...mon07/b441.png

Just finished cutting out and painting the new body. Im still pretty new at painting bodies but im happy it matches my rc8

wheel hexes and rims
 

Hey can anyone tell me which wheel hexes and rims are the best setup for the b44.1? Thanks for your help in advance.

Derek