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-   -   B44.1 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/441523-b44-1-thread.html)

forcewave 03-23-2012 09:14 PM

Awesome thanks so much guys I might actually get this car done tonight. I never even considered using my nut driver on those.

UN4RACING 03-23-2012 09:34 PM

Gitter done. And if you need anything this thread is by far the best one for 44 info. :nod:

forcewave 03-23-2012 09:44 PM

Yeah I've read it all twice. I decided on a 7.5 turn motor and 18t pinion gear to start. I am still not sure what batteries to buy however, I will mostly be bashing this with friends in my area and was considering a 6000Mah 35C battery. My question is about what can I expect from it runtime wise? Also do you think it will provide plenty of punch? I am just getting back into RC I haven't owned one since my Avante in '89. I was 10 at the time and it seemed like a bullet, of course it probably didn't even do 20mph. I am so buying one of the re-released ones but first I wanted something that could keep up with my friends rides.

UN4RACING 03-23-2012 10:01 PM


Originally Posted by forcewave (Post 10508841)
Yeah I've read it all twice. I decided on a 7.5 turn motor and 18t pinion gear to start. I am still not sure what batteries to buy however, I will mostly be bashing this with friends in my area and was considering a 6000Mah 35C battery. My question is about what can I expect from it runtime wise? Also do you think it will provide plenty of punch? I am just getting back into RC I haven't owned one since my Avante in '89. I was 10 at the time and it seemed like a bullet, of course it probably didn't even do 20mph. I am so buying one of the re-released ones but first I wanted something that could keep up with my friends rides.

35c will be fine. I would guess 15min run time if geared conservative. 15 minutes to be safe that you don't ruin your battery. I bet you could push 20.

TheHillsPancake 03-23-2012 11:04 PM


Originally Posted by UN4RACING (Post 10507717)
I would start with a 17p. Build the diffs with all 6 shims on the gear side and over grease the diff gear with 5 spots of Ae diff grease. It will break in and free up pretty quick so if it feels tight don't worry. The diff gears will hold up longer with that kind of nuclear power your running. Start with the kit set up and add the 87gram ballast between the packs. Should be all about tire selection from there. If the track is loose then run the B option hub and the inner top deck ball stud hole. Good luck. Keep us updated on the build....

haha nuclear power.. i like that one, soo im guessing the 5.5 is to much for the b44.1? i could still order a 6.5 if that will make the diff last longer but is there a big difference between 5.5 and 6.5?

UN4RACING 03-24-2012 05:43 AM


Originally Posted by TheHillsPancake (Post 10509037)
haha nuclear power.. i like that one, soo im guessing the 5.5 is to much for the b44.1? i could still order a 6.5 if that will make the diff last longer but is there a big difference between 5.5 and 6.5?

If you're power plant is smooth on the bottom end run a 3.5. My new kits 8 Weeks old and I ran a 5.5 and a 6.5. Still haven't chucked a gear and the diffs are still pretty smooth. Slipper setting and good trigger control is all it takes. You don't need a lot in the infield but all the power you can have in reserve comes in great for the straights. Power up.:nod:


WARP SPEED IN THE STRAIGHTS>>>>>>

forcewave 03-24-2012 08:17 AM


Originally Posted by UN4RACING (Post 10508891)
35c will be fine. I would guess 15min run time if geared conservative. 15 minutes to be safe that you don't ruin your battery. I bet you could push 20.

Wow is that all I'll be able to get out of a set of batteries? I figured I'd at least be able to bash it for 30 minutes or so.

vito 03-24-2012 08:31 AM

i put my b 44.1 up for sell at the new hobby shop in town. thanks for the help i need a losi 22 t to go with my 22.

TheHillsPancake 03-24-2012 04:10 PM


Originally Posted by UN4RACING (Post 10509521)
If you're power plant is smooth on the bottom end run a 3.5. My new kits 8 Weeks old and I ran a 5.5 and a 6.5. Still haven't chucked a gear and the diffs are still pretty smooth. Slipper setting and good trigger control is all it takes. You don't need a lot in the infield but all the power you can have in reserve comes in great for the straights. Power up.:nod:


WARP SPEED IN THE STRAIGHTS>>>>>>

I think I'm gunna go with the 6.5 and later buy a 5.5

nhraman 03-24-2012 07:15 PM

Does anyone want to share some pics of their creative electronics and wiring layouts in the B44.1? I'm getting ready to install everything so any help would be appreciated.

vito 03-24-2012 07:17 PM

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...a/DSCN1122.jpg

nhraman 03-24-2012 07:22 PM

Wow, that was quick!! I was trying to figure out if it was best to run the motor wires over or under the top deck. I'm also trying to find a short sensor cable, any ideas?

Grouchman 03-24-2012 07:33 PM


Originally Posted by nhraman (Post 10511715)
Does anyone want to share some pics of their creative electronics and wiring layouts in the B44.1? I'm getting ready to install everything so any help would be appreciated.

Here is my set up

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...3/6a285ac1.jpg

nhraman 03-24-2012 07:41 PM


Originally Posted by Grouchman (Post 10511779)

Wow that looks slick!! Thanks.

UN4RACING 03-24-2012 08:29 PM


Originally Posted by forcewave (Post 10509927)
Wow is that all I'll be able to get out of a set of batteries? I figured I'd at least be able to bash it for 30 minutes or so.

As long as you run a lipo cut off profile you can try. I don't recommend it. But I did get 20min with a 5.5 5200 60c..

UN4RACING 03-24-2012 09:53 PM

Okay I am on a keyboard now. If your running a hot mod 30 minutes is going to be a tough time to hit. You might at 120/130 degrees but you will most likely need a 13.5 10.5 geared perfect.
The heat is bad on the motor at high temps and to many thermals will ruin your electronics. And dumping lipos will end up with a bad cell over time. I dump mine down to 7.75 in a 10/15 minute run and keeping peak temp of 120/130 is hard to achieve over that amount of time in race set ups.
If ya pull it off post up your settings and motor gearing.

forcewave 03-24-2012 10:18 PM

I guess my setup does qualify for fairly high end. I'll just see how things go and maybe pickup a couple extra sets of batteries. At the moment I'm waiting till monday to call AE to get one of the rear A arm shims that was missing from my kit. On the plus side I've got everything installed short of the shocks and tires.

UN4RACING 03-25-2012 06:29 AM


Originally Posted by forcewave (Post 10512230)
I guess my setup does qualify for fairly high end. I'll just see how things go and maybe pickup a couple extra sets of batteries. At the moment I'm waiting till monday to call AE to get one of the rear A arm shims that was missing from my kit. On the plus side I've got everything installed short of the shocks and tires.

I'm not much of a wizard on battery specs and the over all math of them, but if you get like a 6000 mah 20c you may be able to reach some 30 minute run times. If you just want to pound the ground with it check out the Gen Ace packs there cheap and I think you can get a lower C with higher MAH. For Bashing. The lower C rating should help it run cooler. The Gen Ace packs are around 40/60 bucks to.
Watch the motor temps and ESC temps get the gearing correct and you will be fine either way.

TJMac 03-25-2012 07:38 AM


Originally Posted by nhraman (Post 10511741)
Wow, that was quick!! I was trying to figure out if it was best to run the motor wires over or under the top deck. I'm also trying to find a short sensor cable, any ideas?

TQ Racing sells sensor wires from 50mm to 275mm. I run a 70mm out the back of my R10 to my motor and it fits perfectly. Motor wires are run under the top deck. Plenty of room.

klopsided6r 03-25-2012 09:15 AM

having trouble with my set up
 
So i have been having trouble with my 44.1 at the track. it is a medium sized track made of a clay/dirt mix that is washed out pretty badly. it is very hard to jump on this track due to that fact. the jumps are fairly big. its got one double with the landing on a table top and then into another double followed by a big tripple and then one more double. the jumps are bordering on 1/8th scale to be honest.I have upped my shock oil weight to 32.5 in the front and 37.5 in the rear,raising the ride height up to around 27-28 mm with the same effect. I am somewhat of a nube but i know ive got to stay on the throttle when jumping with this beast. I have also got the 87g ballast weight and even put another half ounce right in front of the tower to help combat this problem. and im getting tired of braking stuff. I broke both of my diff housings, front arms and cracked both of my towers trying to figure this out. any advice would I think help.

thanks,

klops

burgboyz 03-25-2012 10:33 AM


Originally Posted by klopsided6r (Post 10513435)
So i have been having trouble with my 44.1 at the track. it is a medium sized track made of a clay/dirt mix that is washed out pretty badly. it is very hard to jump on this track due to that fact. the jumps are fairly big. its got one double with the landing on a table top and then into another double followed by a big tripple and then one more double. the jumps are bordering on 1/8th scale to be honest.I have upped my shock oil weight to 32.5 in the front and 37.5 in the rear,raising the ride height up to around 27-28 mm with the same effect. I am somewhat of a nube but i know ive got to stay on the throttle when jumping with this beast. I have also got the 87g ballast weight and even put another half ounce right in front of the tower to help combat this problem. and im getting tired of braking stuff. I broke both of my diff housings, front arms and cracked both of my towers trying to figure this out. any advice would I think help.

thanks,

klops

Can you explain the exact problem in more detail?
What motor are you running? gearing?
Most of the setups I have seen run the thicker oil in front not the rear.?.?

klopsided6r 03-25-2012 02:56 PM


Originally Posted by burgboyz (Post 10513715)
Can you explain the exact problem in more detail?
What motor are you running? gearing?
Most of the setups I have seen run the thicker oil in front not the rear.?.?

sorry about lack of description. my nose dives after taking off of the lip of the jumps causing me to wreck, look like a dumb ass and break stuff.. I dont really mind looking like a dumbass cus im a relative nube but it gets emberrasing . I ran thicker oil in back because of the nose diving problem.I was trying to add a little pack thinking that the nose dive problem was caused by chassis slap. I also laid the shocks down front and rear (inner holes on the towers and outer holes on the armsto try and make more stable.) didn't really want to tweak the front too much as far as oils go. the motor is a hobbywing 9 turn 4300 kv the gearing is 18/84. I accidently bought an 84 instead of an 81 so I will be switching back relatively soon. if there is anything else you need to know let me know. oh yeah I went and bought some mip bypass1 pistons to help cure the problem. I almost actually bought kyosho big bores as well...





thanks

klops

aeRayls 03-25-2012 03:47 PM

A car itself jump doesn't jump bad. As long as your car is setup properly(nothin weird) it's all about driving. Now it can be an esc setting problem if your brakes or drag brakes are set too high.

Your a noob so I'll give ya some advice from a 20 year vet. Driving is 90% of rc. Practice driving... Put the kit setup in your car down to a" T" don't skip anything. Make sure your Esc settings are correct, smooth brakes and throttle and. Just practice driving!!! 4whl is very sensitive to throttle/brake inputs! Throttle brings the nose up/ brakes bring the nose down. Typically letting off the gas too soon on a jump causes the nose to dive in the air.

UN4RACING 03-25-2012 05:45 PM


Originally Posted by aeRayls (Post 10514713)
A car itself jump doesn't jump bad. As long as your car is setup properly(nothin weird) it's all about driving. Now it can be an esc setting problem if your brakes or drag brakes are set too high.

Your a noob so I'll give ya some advice from a 20 year vet. Driving is 90% of rc. Practice driving... Put the kit setup in your car down to a" T" don't skip anything. Make sure your Esc settings are correct, smooth brakes and throttle and. Just practice driving!!! 4whl is very sensitive to throttle/brake inputs! Throttle brings the nose up/ brakes bring the nose down. Typically letting off the gas too soon on a jump causes the nose to dive in the air.

+ 1. Build it to the T box set up. Then you have some thing to work with. Don't run any drag brake. To much will cause a nose plant. Moving the lower position of the shocks out will make it jump stupid to.

Try the box stock oils first with the 87g ballast. Don't get away from the stock set up other than the oils.
If the track is real bumpy try some losi 25 in the rear with 35 losi in the front. No weights. If your running 25 35 AE run the weights. 87g. If its bumpy then the stiffer oil will make it unstable. Good luck and keep us informed.

Bike racer 03-25-2012 07:51 PM


Originally Posted by klopsided6r (Post 10514535)
sorry about lack of description. my nose dives after taking off of the lip of the jumps causing me to wreck, look like a dumb ass and break stuff.. I dont really mind looking like a dumbass cus im a relative nube but it gets emberrasing . I ran thicker oil in back because of the nose diving problem.I was trying to add a little pack thinking that the nose dive problem was caused by chassis slap. I also laid the shocks down front and rear (inner holes on the towers and outer holes on the armsto try and make more stable.) didn't really want to tweak the front too much as far as oils go. the motor is a hobbywing 9 turn 4300 kv the gearing is 18/84. I accidently bought an 84 instead of an 81 so I will be switching back relatively soon. if there is anything else you need to know let me know. oh yeah I went and bought some mip bypass1 pistons to help cure the problem. I almost actually bought kyosho big bores as well...


thanks

klops

Are you the only car that is having problems with the nose diving? If the face of the jumps are messed up it can cause the rear of the car to kick up and then nose dive. Are 2WD buggies handling these jumps ok? I would ask some one experienced at the track if they could help you out. Someone with experience could probably pinpoint a problem pretty quickly.

Good luck.

klopsided6r 03-25-2012 08:16 PM


Originally Posted by Bike racer (Post 10515903)
Are you the only car that is having problems with the nose diving? If the face of the jumps are messed up it can cause the rear of the car to kick up and then nose dive. Are 2WD buggies handling these jumps ok? I would ask some one experienced at the track if they could help you out. Someone with experience could probably pinpoint a problem pretty quickly.

Good luck.

yes, all the 2wd guys are flying smooth through every part of the track. I have driven a 2wd there that is dialed and it handled great. I know that the 2wd and 4wd are completely different beasts but there is something to learn from watching and asking, and I do, but get silly generic answers as if there not sure or dont want to tell me. I doubt they dont want to help, I think they just dont think they know. I could hit one part of the jump with throttle(the doubble to the table top) and be fine and then ide hit the middle where theres most trafic and it was as if there was no jump and just hit the lip of the able top and roll. all of the short coursers were hitting it no problem.. it was frustrating the hell out of me. and to boot, going through the woops and s turns the car handled great. i didnt understand. my car was soo inconsistant. pissed me off.,

forwardonly 03-26-2012 06:13 AM

It took me a while to get used to throttle control on my first 4wd car. You have so much control of attitude since you have 4 tires under power and a lot of motor. It is all about throttle control in the air. You can not let off the throttle in the air (especially if you have drag brake) because the nose will drop. You should also not have any trouble getting the nose up by using some throttle inputs.

I would do what others have said on here. Go to the box set-up as it is very good and practice driving it. You might also give your car to an experienced driver and have them wheel it around the track. If they have troubles, then you may actually have a problem, but I don't think it will be the box set-up. It would be more likely to be an ESC issue regarding throttle and brake settings.

nhraman 03-26-2012 08:31 AM

Has anyone tried running the Losi or Kyosho BB springs with any success? I'm going to try Losi White rears and Losi Blue fronts to start off with. I also have yellow / green I might play with as well.

fastchvy 03-26-2012 09:32 AM


Originally Posted by nhraman (Post 10517777)
Has anyone tried running the Losi or Kyosho BB springs with any success? I'm going to try Losi White rears and Losi Blue fronts to start off with. I also have yellow / green I might play with as well.

I did, took them back off, start out with green front white rear..

nhraman 03-26-2012 10:01 AM


Originally Posted by fastchvy (Post 10518037)
I did, took them back off, start out with green front white rear..

I take it you didn't like them?

fastchvy 03-26-2012 10:51 AM


Originally Posted by nhraman (Post 10518139)
I take it you didn't like them?

No, felt wishy washy....might try again though!

fastchvy 03-26-2012 10:53 AM

I had balast weight in it at the time of the test with the losi springs, took out the balast weight and may retry the losi springs with no balast weight..

Jason Turner 03-26-2012 11:26 AM


Originally Posted by nhraman (Post 10511715)
Does anyone want to share some pics of their creative electronics and wiring layouts in the B44.1? I'm getting ready to install everything so any help would be appreciated.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...1/45e63a4b.jpg

nhraman 03-26-2012 11:55 AM


Originally Posted by Jason Turner (Post 10518456)

Thanks, it looks very nice. I have all my stuff installed now so I'll snap a pic of it as well.

nhraman 03-26-2012 11:59 AM


Originally Posted by fastchvy (Post 10518322)
I had balast weight in it at the time of the test with the losi springs, took out the balast weight and may retry the losi springs with no balast weight..

Thanks, I forgot to mention that I'm running Kyosho velvet shocks. I'll give it a shot next weekend to see what combo works best.

fastchvy 03-26-2012 12:03 PM


Originally Posted by nhraman (Post 10518599)
Thanks, I forgot to mention that I'm running Kyosho velvet shocks. I'll give it a shot next weekend to see what combo works best.

Do the kyosho shocks bolt right up? Ate the the 2 wheel or 4 wheel shock? i take it they are big bores?

burgboyz 03-26-2012 12:11 PM

Jason,
It looks like you took the time to remove the blue anodizing.
Nice touch!

nhraman 03-26-2012 12:24 PM


Originally Posted by fastchvy (Post 10518605)
Do the kyosho shocks bolt right up? Ate the the 2 wheel or 4 wheel shock? i take it they are big bores?

Yep, they're pretty much a direct fit. 30mm fronts, 38mm rears. They are standards not BB. I run them on both my B4.1 buggies as well, hell I even run AE springs on them at times. I'm in no hurry to try BB shocks yet, I'll let everyone else do it first.

Jason Turner 03-26-2012 05:29 PM


Originally Posted by burgboyz (Post 10518646)
Jason,
It looks like you took the time to remove the blue anodizing.
Nice touch!

Yes I did, the blue craze drives me nuts

fastchvy 03-27-2012 01:44 AM

Any time frame on the lrp x20 motors, anybody know anything?


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