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-   -   B44.1 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/441523-b44-1-thread.html)

Oso M 01-31-2012 12:55 PM

Diff Rebuilds
 
How often are you guys rebuilding your diffs?

Also thoughts on carbide vs. ceramic diff balls.

Grouchman 01-31-2012 02:35 PM


Originally Posted by Oso M (Post 10256687)
How often are you guys rebuilding your diffs?

Also thoughts on carbide vs. ceramic diff balls.

I adjust the diffs every race and rebuild my diffs every 8-10 races. That's on any ball diff buggy/truck I have. I try to keep the diff clean and lubed as much as possible.

Oso M 01-31-2012 03:48 PM

Yes, that makes sense.

I was more curious about the life of the diff balls and rings...

kstoracing1 01-31-2012 04:48 PM

gens
 
I have the sticks.....ran in a Hyper sc...faded towards the end and don't care for them. Promatch batteries from now on. Any new ones I get will be promatch..no fade and good prices.

I have Orion 45c good batteries over priced compared the promatch tho.

Go on the high velocity thread and check out what he has also.

Grouchman 01-31-2012 10:29 PM


Originally Posted by Oso M (Post 10257489)
Yes, that makes sense.

I was more curious about the life of the diff balls and rings...

The balls (carbide/ceramic) or rings won't were out if you maintain them, keep them lubed. Make sure to open the diffs every 8-10 races, check for wear. If you stay on top of the maintenance you'll be good. Your enemy is friction!!

Big Lee 02-01-2012 02:31 AM

The full range of shock tuning options
 
Thinking about getting all the different springs available for the B44, the hobby shop I'm buying from has 10,15,20,25,30,35,40,50,60 weight oils available. What range do you guys think would be practical to be able to tune the full range of springs available.

Rotax125 02-01-2012 02:52 AM

You'll only need any thing from 25 to 40 weight.. The rest you will never use..

Big Lee 02-01-2012 03:07 AM


Originally Posted by Rotax125 (Post 10260089)
You'll only need any thing from 25 to 40 weight.. The rest you will never use..

Do you feel the same could be said for the full range of springs. That only a certain range would ever be useful. There are 12 graduations of spring rate including both front and rear spring rates, from 1.74 lb to 4.2 lb, so wouldn't it make sense that there would be 12 graduations of oil weight, one that would perfectly suit each spring rate.

Don't get me wrong I'm not doubting your feedback of the range of 25 to 40, do you beleive that all the perfect weights for such a range of springs could be found in that range. I have seen other weights graduations inbetween the ones I have listed available elsewhere.

Rotax125 02-01-2012 03:29 AM

If u race u will only ever use the silver and blue front springs & green and silver rears..the rest are way too stiff.
i find i always go back to silver / green and change oil only.

Big Lee 02-01-2012 03:34 AM


Originally Posted by Rotax125 (Post 10260166)
If u race u will only ever use the silver and blue front springs & green and silver rears..the rest are way too stiff.
i find i always go back to silver / green and change oil only.

Interesting, I keen to know if this combination is what everybody would agree on.

UN4RACING 02-01-2012 04:56 AM

I have been racing B44's for at least 5 years and have never ran any thing but silver and green.

Grouchman 02-01-2012 02:16 PM

I want to put the BB conversion on my B44.1, want to use Kyosho springs. What colors should I use on a mid-high traction clay track?

brent701 02-01-2012 03:03 PM


Originally Posted by Grouchman (Post 10262804)
I want to put the BB conversion on my B44.1, want to use Kyosho springs. What colors should I use on a mid-high traction clay track?

Losi springs are 1/4 the price and about the same.
I ran silver Losi front's and it helped a ton on a rough track.

BIGTIME 02-02-2012 10:30 AM

Cant seem to find a setup sheet for WCRC, any factory guys have a complete setup sheet for this track...Thanks

jamr1130 02-02-2012 11:57 AM


Originally Posted by Grouchman (Post 10262804)
I want to put the BB conversion on my B44.1, want to use Kyosho springs. What colors should I use on a mid-high traction clay track?



Originally Posted by BIGTIME (Post 10267434)
Cant seem to find a setup sheet for WCRC, any factory guys have a complete setup sheet for this track...Thanks

I didn't ask any top drivers but asked another AE guy at the Reedy what Kyosho spring everyone ran. He couldn't comment on the others but said he ran orange fronts and red rears. For what it's worth.

dbracn 02-02-2012 03:03 PM

If your looking for losi springs it will be either silver, green, or blue fronts and either yellow or pink rears. Most with the 44.1 run blue front and yellow rear but if its high traction you might want some pink rears as they are a little stiffer. I switch between front springs depending on how much low or high speed steering i want for the layout.

kyle3333 02-02-2012 05:35 PM

I'm sure this has been covered before, but I'm building a new B44.1 kit and the gear boxes are a little tight. I shimmed them like the manual said and they were pretty stiff. I then shimmed them with 3 shims on each side. It's a little better. Will they get better the more I run the car or should I shim until they are totally free?

Bike racer 02-02-2012 06:17 PM


Originally Posted by kyle3333 (Post 10269353)
I'm sure this has been covered before, but I'm building a new B44.1 kit and the gear boxes are a little tight. I shimmed them like the manual said and they were pretty stiff. I then shimmed them with 3 shims on each side. It's a little better. Will they get better the more I run the car or should I shim until they are totally free?

The kit instructions are a place to start. There are a number of places where the tolerance can be off so your experience will likely be different.

DO NOT shim the gearbox to be free before it's run, it will last about 2-3 runs that way. It's hard to say how tight to make it, but I describe it as a little tighter than you really think it should be. Give it a chance to break in, then check it. If you have the time, after the first day of racing, or at least after the second day of racing. There should be some fine tan powder in the bottom of the case, no chunks though, if you have chunks it wasn't shimmed right and it will end up eating itself up.

UN4RACING 02-02-2012 07:16 PM


Originally Posted by kyle3333 (Post 10269353)
I'm sure this has been covered before, but I'm building a new B44.1 kit and the gear boxes are a little tight. I shimmed them like the manual said and they were pretty stiff. I then shimmed them with 3 shims on each side. It's a little better. Will they get better the more I run the car or should I shim until they are totally free?

I put all my shims on the gear side. Trust me it will free up. I also put 5 small spots of diff lube on the gear. You don't want to see powder in the case. It means the gear is waring. It sux but to prevent an a-main run failure you have to inspect your gears frequently according to the power of your motor.

Big Lee 02-04-2012 07:18 PM

First ever paint job.
 
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/...22012108sm.jpg
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/...22012135sm.jpg
Stickers going on now. Preview soon !!!

UN4RACING 02-04-2012 08:00 PM

Simple and clean. Looks good. Even better once the stickers are on.:cool:

Big Lee 02-04-2012 08:39 PM

Done
 
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/...22012163sm.jpg
Done.

Big Lee 02-04-2012 08:41 PM


Originally Posted by UN4RACING (Post 10278808)
Simple and clean. Looks good. Even better once the stickers are on.:cool:

Cheers, was a bit daunting being the first one.

JEFFs SC10 02-04-2012 10:23 PM

hey guys,

coming from short course and been looking at these hard.

How fun are these to drive? Are they easy to drive? I heard they break a lot, any truth to that?

I really dont want to get into a 2wd buggy yet i like 4 wd to pull you out of turns.

please let me know! thanks!

brent701 02-04-2012 10:44 PM


Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 (Post 10279277)
hey guys,

coming from short course and been looking at these hard.

How fun are these to drive? Are they easy to drive? I heard they break a lot, any truth to that?

I really dont want to get into a 2wd buggy yet i like 4 wd to pull you out of turns.

please let me know! thanks!

It's fun as hell to drive. You will drive it different than you truck r a 2wd buggy

I ran a one way diff on the front and Loved it.
yes they can break a lot. I have broken 3 arms, shock cap and a front tranny case. shit happens I guess you can say

The 2wd will get you driving smoother though.

With the one way diff in this thing, It is fun to drift the corners though, lol

UN4RACING 02-05-2012 01:52 AM


Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 (Post 10279277)
hey guys,

coming from short course and been looking at these hard.

How fun are these to drive? Are they easy to drive? I heard they break a lot, any truth to that?

I really dont want to get into a 2wd buggy yet i like 4 wd to pull you out of turns.

please let me know! thanks!

Mine has only broke once. Stay off the walls and pipes. As for fun, oh yeah there a blast. Easy to drive fast is why there so much fun.

NitroLuver 02-05-2012 02:21 AM


Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 (Post 10279277)
hey guys,

coming from short course and been looking at these hard.

How fun are these to drive? Are they easy to drive? I heard they break a lot, any truth to that?

I really dont want to get into a 2wd buggy yet i like 4 wd to pull you out of turns.

please let me know! thanks!

driving one of these is like driving a mini 1/8th scale...so much fun can't wait to get mine:nod:

UN4RACING 02-05-2012 06:24 AM

The B44 platform is the best I have ever driven. Its the only class I run ever since I bought one. Its been cheap and fast fun racing. Throw in the power you can handle and let it rip. Every RC Racer owes it to them self to try 4x4 racing. Best driving experience I have encountered in RC Racing so far.

Highly recommend The B44.1.

Big Lee 02-05-2012 09:22 PM

Explanation of set up sheets please.
 
On the "Standard set up sheet" and both Cavalieri and Maifield's World title set up sheets it is written in the rear toe spot 3.0+0 or 3 degrees. Yet in the kit you are supplied with rear hubs that say L0.0 & R0.0 which is part no. 9864. So are these guys using part no.9867 (1.5 degrees) per side added together is 3 degrees.
What rear hub do you guys use.

Also the bumpsteer washers are ajusted where and how and what do they acheive.

Can you adjust the rear antisquat. Or front caster. Is rear antisquat the same thing as rear antisquat.

Does anybody use the rear aluminium tower mount.

What are some valuable hop ups.

ray_munday 02-05-2012 09:46 PM

Kit setup has 3 deg inboard toe-in per side (built in). 3 + 0 means 3 deg inboard, 0 deg outboard ie use the 0 deg hubs supplied with the kit.

Bumpsteer washers are installed under the steering ballstud on the front hub. Adding washers gives toe-out in bump, which tends to make the car a little easier to drive in bumpier conditions.

rear anti-squat can be adjusted using washers under the rear blocks, but basically is not changed from 2 deg (as per kit build).

Ray



Originally Posted by Big Lee (Post 10283807)
On the "Standard set up sheet" and both Cavalieri and Maifield's World title set up sheets it is written in the rear toe spot 3.0+0 or 3 degrees. Yet in the kit you are supplied with rear hubs that say L0.0 & R0.0 which is part no. 9864. So are these guys using part no.9867 (1.5 degrees) per side added together is 3 degrees.
What rear hub do you guys use.

Also the bumpsteer washers are ajusted where and how and what do they acheive.

Can you adjust the rear antisquat. Or front caster. Is rear antisquat the same thing as rear antisquat.

Does anybody use the rear aluminium tower mount.

What are some valuable hop ups.


Big Lee 02-05-2012 10:20 PM


Originally Posted by ray_munday (Post 10283900)
Kit setup has 3 deg inboard toe-in per side (built in). 3 + 0 means 3 deg inboard, 0 deg outboard ie use the 0 deg hubs supplied with the kit.

Bumpsteer washers are installed under the steering ballstud on the front hub. Adding washers gives toe-out in bump, which tends to make the car a little easier to drive in bumpier conditions.

rear anti-squat can be adjusted using washers under the rear blocks, but basically is not changed from 2 deg (as per kit build).

Ray

Cheers for the clarification. I just read the last part of the manual properly !!!! It explains a lot hey !! Silly me :blush:

Big Lee 02-06-2012 04:01 AM

Wing angle
 
Are there different wing shims available to get the 3 deg and 6 deg settings listed in the B44 set up sheet. If so what are there part no.s

ray_munday 02-06-2012 04:36 AM


Originally Posted by Big Lee (Post 10284688)
Are there different wing shims available to get the 3 deg and 6 deg settings listed in the B44 set up sheet. If so what are there part no.s

3deg = shims under the wings reversed. 6 deg = no shims. 9 deg = shims as per manual.

jamr1130 02-06-2012 12:51 PM

So how much is everyone cutting foams on the front inserts? I know I can just get the closed cells and be done with it. But I have a bunch of foams from my B4.1. Thanks in advance for the help.

idrummerboy13 02-06-2012 12:52 PM


Originally Posted by jamr1130 (Post 10286871)
So how much is everyone cutting foams on the front inserts? I know I can just get the closed cells and be done with it. But I have a bunch of foams from my B4.1. Thanks in advance for the help.

stuff rear in fronts, or use a set to suck up blue that comes on the rim from glueing;);)

crazyace112 02-06-2012 01:33 PM


Originally Posted by UN4RACING (Post 10280113)
The B44 platform is the best I have ever driven. Its the only class I run ever since I bought one. Its been cheap and fast fun racing. Throw in the power you can handle and let it rip. Every RC Racer owes it to them self to try 4x4 racing. Best driving experience I have encountered in RC Racing so far.

Highly recommend The B44.1.

Im still new to the hobby, but from seeing other people run it, i have yet to see a bad one!

jamr1130 02-06-2012 06:09 PM


Originally Posted by idrummerboy13 (Post 10286878)
stuff rear in fronts, or use a set to suck up blue that comes on the rim from glueing;);)

Thanks for the tip.

mikesd1980 02-06-2012 09:20 PM

Is there a hex conversion for the B44 back rims? I rather not worry about them.

BIGTIME 02-06-2012 09:35 PM

Tried the box setup and car was good, however I feel like the from oil is light. I went to 40 in the front now it feels great, did anybody else go up in front shock oil?

brent701 02-06-2012 09:48 PM


Originally Posted by mikesd1980 (Post 10289583)
Is there a hex conversion for the B44 back rims? I rather not worry about them.

Jconcept 2091


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