I just rebuilt my diffs for the first time and my friend said I should have also bought a couple of the longer T-nuts from the NTC3 (I had to reuse an old one). What are the actual part numbers we should be using? Should it be a TC3 or an NTC3 rebuild kit? Also, in one of the two TC3 rebuild kits there was a short T-nut in the bag and in the other there was also a long one (that is, both long and short). Is this normal or was it a mis-packaged fluke?

How does 44.1 compare to the durango buggy, i know 44.1 is world champ but how does it do on the club level??

Honestly the best driver wins. At our track they are just so easy to drive and control that you put the best driver with any 1/10 scale 4x and he is going to win. IMO. I would buy what the rest of the folks drive at your track so you can borrow broken parts :p

haha everyone get a different buggy im tired of supplying arms and shock shafts haha jk i want everyone to run the 4wd with me even if i have to give out parts... pretty sure I am wiped out now.

i was having trouble with a used battery i bought and now im looking for a new saddle pack.. Would it be safe to run a 35c battery with my set up? Tekin rs pro with a lrp 6.5turn motor. Geared pretty low at 18. Or should i be buying 50c batteries?

6.5 you should have tons of power. if it feels slow just go up on pinion

no the power is good. the pack i bought was puffing. Im just in the market for another saddle pack. I geared it low to keep temps down and learn more control with the car.

What size pack are you running? 5000, 4850, 2600??? It does make a difference....

I meant if you went to a 35 c lipo... depends on what c rating you are coming from. there is a difference between them, I was just saying if it feels slow with a 35c just go up on the pinion. And packs always puff a little. I am not sure the cause of it, but they still work fine. I have Never seen a lipo problem unless the esc caught on fire and took the lipo with it

this pack wasnt puffing a little.. it was completely coming apart. and wouldnt fit in my b44.1 anymore. But okay i understand what your saying. I already have a 50c saddle pack and it rips. I was just debating if i should buy another one or save some money and buy a reedy saddle pack @35c 4200. theyre only 62 on amain

Hey guys what are the major upgrades of this car from the original B44? I know this has probably been discussed but it is a hard topic to search for. Any help is appreciated.

Try this.

Hi

A new track nearby has just opened up and i need some pointers. The track is indoor clay, some areas are bluegroove, some are rougher. Dust will build up during a heat.

The track has decided on Gold Bar Codes in the back but front tires are open. Do you have any tips on front tyres to give more turn in than gold bar codes? I find that the car pushes really bad in the slower corners and needs corrections with the throttle to rotate properly.

just wondering if anyone has tried finding a gear diff that fits in the b44.1

What setup changes have you made to help?

Clay suburbs, switches, bk bars or taper pins might be options.

i have a new b44.1 with a mamba max pro esc an 4 pole 5700 kv motor is this a good set up for this car? its a tad slow iam at 18 84 gearing. can i go to a highter kv motor?

I would go lower. I know on the SC10 4x4 castle doesn't recommend anything larger than the 3800kv. I do not know the weight from a B44.1 to a SC104x4. I have not gotten my B44.1 yet.

I am at 13/62 gearing on my 4x4 truck and it flys with the 3800kv

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...6_143851-1.jpg

I put durango diffsin my b44and I loveit! It wasn't easy though. Basically you will need a complete set of durango diffs,outer bearings, and pinions. I machined the durango pinion off of the shaft, and cut the b44 shaft down to the required length. I was going to c clip the pinion on but the b44 shaft was very hard to machine because of how hard it was. So I wound up laser welding the pinion onto the shaft. (Kind of sucks because if the pinion bearings need to be replaced I'm sol, I'm not too worried though cuz those rarely go out.) Then I had to machine some spacers to make the durango bearing fit in the associated case. Which is the blue plastic spacers in the pic.

iam going to higher kv motor 5700 is out and in my losi 22 wow

i'm for trying new things . Why not just get a Durango buggy:blush:

I would love to but there is no support for them at our local track, plus it was a fun project.

the b44.1 is a fun car. i need a higher kv motor like a 7700 kv set up it this to high?

Getting back into the RC Game.
 

Hello,

I haven't raced or worked on an RC Car since 1996. I am trying to go with a great setup. Now that I am an adult with a stable job and good income I can finally afford not to scrimp :) but that doesnt mean I dont want to buy smart.. I essentially want to get back into racing with a viable setup..

I have read nearly all of the pages for this topic and have picked up little tidbits here and there. I have been doing alot of research on alot of cars and trucks. I choose the b44.1 because of the local hobby shop parts availability. I wanted a 410 v3 but didnt want to be side lined waiting for parts.

my questions are...

Is there anything I should upgrade during the build? Ceramic thrust diff balls etc?
Any greases better than others for Diff building? Lubing? Aluminum a-arms better or stick with stock ones?

LRP Sxx V2 TC spec - x 12 8.5t - fast yet controllable? I am a novak but researching this LRP setup looks promising.

Ready 2s 4200mah 35c - Enough punch? Should I up to 5000mah+?

What is a good servo to use? One that wont strip out and will have enough torque for those rough sideways landings.. I will be using a Futuba 4PL

I know that's alot of questions so any help will be appreciated.

Thanks.

Great choice mate they are great buggies..
I use high temp bearing grease, any auto shop + cheap
Stick with the plastic arms. Better to have them break than some thing else closer to the chassis,
I run the same LRP setup other than i run a comp spec not TC spec and its bullet proof.
Maybe get a battery with at least 45c rating as 35c is getting pretty low..Most of the saddle packs now are 60c.
I run a Foobar 9252 which is an old school plastic geared 6kg servo i had on a chopper.. Works great and havent stripped a gear set yet..
Ive been racing mine since February and only broken one front arm(huge crash at full noise) 2 ring gears in diff( set diff at 1/8th turn like in the manual,kept stripping, now at 1/4th and i've not touched it since.)

Umm... shouldn't you adjust the slipper to allow slipping to protect the drivetrain, not diff?

Slipper was set correct.. I'm at a loss to why they stripped but.

A lot of people, me included, use the Futaba BLS451 servo. It is a good strong servo and if you check the for sale forums on here, some times you can find a good one for a reasonable price.

Hi! At my first contest I got 3rd place with stock settings and Traxxas Velineon electronics, I beat guys with Tekin 6.5 & DX3, now I'm getting ready
for the next one, next week it is, if againg I will get a good place it means that I'm good, if not... that means I was lucky.

The track is in bad condicion because they are building another one outside city and all the money goes there, I used Proline Caliber tires.

There were three classes:
1. 1/8 nitro buggy
2. 1/10 electric buggy
3. 1/10 SC 4x4 electric

Not held 1/8 electric buggy and 1/8 nitro truggy because people have not been submitted.

My B44.1 run good, dind't mout anti rollbar or stabilizer bar or however its called, in the middle of the race the differentials were weakened and another time lost both pins from rear tires, anyway I maneged to finish the race every time. I'm very pleased with this car, the Durango and Schumacher broke down often, perhaps it was the drivers fault for this.

fwd rules

i got b44.1 roller for 170, what motor fits and recommended for medium size outdoor track with little loose dirt?

Been running my B44.1 for month now, pretty much happy with my set up. Just i would like to get rid of the chassis slap coming off a jump. Anybody have any suggestions. Using 35f and 30r on stock springs.

I built the shocks like the manual says, going to try full rebound next.

i have a 5700 kv 4 pole motor in it its a tad slow. can i go to higher kv and not get hot?

Tekin8.5 or LRP? any suggestions?

If you have the weight between the batteries, take it out. My friend did that and doesn't slap on clean landings... That said, I don't know how it affects overall handling.

Is that Associated oil weights?

Are you running #2 pistons up front and #1 rear? Silver springs up front and green rear? I bleed the shocks kind of like I do Losi shocks, open the bleed screw and fully compress the shock, put the bleed screw back in.

The car only slaps on BIG air.

Another thought. We run the car without an undertray. A couple guys at our track run an undertray and I think that makes the car sound like it's slapping 10 times worse than it is.

Just have the 44, but I've only recently got it and totally dig it. Now just to get some practice and race time in.

I'm not a big fan of Tekin motors. I like LRP X-12 motors, but they cog with some speed controls.

We have been running a Thunder Power 8.5 in my son's B44 and it is awesome. Geared properly 20/81 I think, maybe it's an 84 spur??? My son can run a FULL 5400 pack to cutoff and the motor temps 150*. Great powerband, and the motor has been in the car for 6 months untouched. The only thing to note is the motor smelled like it was overheated when it was new, I would temp the motor thinking it was going to be 180* and it would only be 130*. I was told the epoxy on the windings smells bad for a while. This has gone away now.

Try viper 6.5, u will use your tekins and lrps for paperweights