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Thoughts on 1/8th direct drive?

Thoughts on 1/8th direct drive?

Old 10-04-2010, 08:15 PM
  #31  
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I have never stripped a plastic spur and I have been running 1/8 electric four years now. Metal on metal definitely chews up more pinions for me.

The slipperential is a great tuning aid. I definitely use it to take a little of the hit off the bottom end to control traction. I didn't like the Tekno clutch when I tried it as I found it too inconsistent. However, the v4 conversions look interesting so I might give one of them a try when released.
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:42 PM
  #32  
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Wouldnt this just snap drive pins constantly.
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Old 10-04-2010, 10:28 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
What a good point.. I didn't even mention the rear diff, with the buggy when I did run direct drive I didn't have much issues with the rear diff but when I was running direct drive in my truggy I tore up 2 diff's, and I was shimming and checking the condition. I've since went the the clutch and will soon most likely swap the springs and setup as traktion drive, but zero diff issues..
Truggy is heavier so more torque n power is used ESP when jumping n jam all d diff.

At the end of the day it's all peference which system we want. I am not from US so shipping n availiblity is a issue.
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Old 10-04-2010, 11:00 PM
  #34  
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I love the fact my VE8 is direct..no problems whatsoever and it’s great to get away from the clutch….I deal with it in nitro and it’s a breath of fresh air not to on the E…

With all the adjustments one can make with the ESC’s and a smooth throttle finger..IMO..anything other than direct is simply not needed …

Last edited by MasiisaM; 10-05-2010 at 01:08 AM.
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Old 10-04-2010, 11:14 PM
  #35  
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Esc super controlleable, wont need clutch when you can adjust to what you want on a computer.
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Old 10-05-2010, 12:58 AM
  #36  
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Just imagine a 1:1 off road car w/o clutch jumping n jamming all the diff & engine still running trying to power the car but the car is still on the ground. It's a time bomb when the engine or d diff will break.
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Old 10-05-2010, 09:21 AM
  #37  
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The problem I have with the 1:1 reference is this.


The clutch itself is there to allow proper gear changes (syncro box) and allow starting from non-rolling situations. The clutch itself isn't designed to "slip" protecting driveline.

In race prep vehicles (ie: motorcycles), they utilize dog engagement and don't use the clutch at all unless from a dead stop. Clutches in and of themselves have been used over the years to help provide power in 2-stoke applications but that's more due to the lack of torque to low rpms. They're not utilizing it for true traction reasons.


The thing I like about direct drive is the instant response. Not that my slipper can't provide that but I feel like true direct has some advantages in response and clearly is the most simple setup overall. On top of that, it's far lighter overall and it less prone to wearing out/failing. Not that a std diff doesn't fail.

My guess is traktion drive offers the best performance overall with allowance for tuning but I'd guess is the most fragile (not a great word as I'm sure it's quite reliable) from a motor load standpoint where the motor shaft is heavily loaded way away from the support bearing.

I swapped the slipperentail out of the mbx6t for the weekend. Ideally I'd like to swap in a losi diff with plastic spur as mugen isn't supporting a plastic mod1 setup yet.
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