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Old 06-28-2004, 03:44 PM   #1
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Default Kanai 2 Understeer problem

My K2 pushes like a Pig!You got to come to a complet stop to get it turned!here is my setup
Ft blue springs 45 wght oil 2mm preload
RR ble springs 35 wght oil no preload
ft dif 1500 oil
ct dif 1500 oil
rr dif 1500 oil
crime fighters all way around
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Old 06-28-2004, 04:07 PM   #2
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shock locations camber links track conditions....
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Old 06-28-2004, 04:28 PM   #3
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Go to 60 in the front shocks, 40 in the rear.

Your diffs are way off.

Go to 5K front, 7k center, and 2k rear.

If you want even more steering, go to a tcd diff in the front.
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Old 06-28-2004, 04:33 PM   #4
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The track is a clay track with loomy conditions!It is not blue groove they water it but bye the time the 1/8 scales run there is alot of loose clay!
shocks
ft tower outside hole bottom
ft a arm out side hole
rr tower bottom inside
rr a arm outside
ft stock
rr hub outside
rr tower bottom outside
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Old 06-28-2004, 04:39 PM   #5
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how much does the diff control steering?Don't mean to sound stupid but i'm a electric racer who just got my first 1/8 scale!I have raced for 17 years but all eletric and pretty much 2wd vehicles!
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Old 06-28-2004, 11:05 PM   #6
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Diffs have everything to do with steering. Its mainly your diffs that are causing your understeer. Go to the diffs I reccomended, and you should have lots more steering.
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Old 06-29-2004, 02:14 PM   #7
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I was down at the hobby store and he recomended!
10,000 mugan diff oil ft
30,000 mugan center
3,000 mugan rr\
is this to much or am i missing something!What foes stiffer oil do compared to lighter oil?
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Old 06-29-2004, 02:57 PM   #8
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Man, now your going to have TONS more understeer. Your diffs will practicly be locked up off power, it'll be like trying to turn a match box car.
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Old 06-30-2004, 06:32 AM   #9
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37
Oval is correct. You gotta bring down those oils in the diff or it will handle terribly. Use Kyosho diff oil.
The ones that oval recomended are a good place to start. Also, if you want more steering you can either go softer with your front shock oil or stiffer with your rear. Ride height will play a part as well. Make sure the rear of the car isnt sitting way lower than the front. If the rear is far lower than the front which it sounds like, then the car will have a tough time transfering the weight to the font wheels giving them more traction.
Change your diff oil then run it.
Then play around with shock oil then run it.
Play around with ride height then run it.
Dont try changing everything at once, you wont know what change actually fixed your problem. Takes a little time, but will pay off in the end.
Good Luck
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Old 06-30-2004, 01:11 PM   #10
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Well here is what I did,hope it works
5000 ft
7000 ct
1000rr
I softened the car bye taking some of the preload off springs!The rear was a little higher than front,I made the a-arms level!I put greg deganis ifmar set up on it!
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Old 07-04-2004, 12:29 PM   #11
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did it work?

just got K2 switched from mbx5

havent run it yet

diffs are regular diffs 5k 7k 1k
oil 70wt front 40wt rear
all stock locations according to instruction manual

any suggestions?? anything i may need to know??

oh and 1 more question the servo saver moves up and down slightly under the steering plate and makes a funny clunking sound is that normal?? did i forget a shim??
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Old 07-04-2004, 08:01 PM   #12
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sway bars and brake setup are huge.

Standard diffs 5 front 7 center 1-3 rear

20 degree front c-hub

50 weight front shock oil

40 weight rear oil

all stock shock locations and blue springs

you can gain alot more steering by using the front b block instead of the kit a block. the blocks come in the kit but they are not alum. wich is not a big deal.

ride height on a rougher track set it bones level on a smoother track arms level.

Lsd diffs cause a on power push, I have never found a track that a lsd in the center diff is any good. I have used lsd in the front diff but I did not like the on power push.

All stock camber locations.

you can really change the way the buggy feels by moving the sway bar links in and out also changing the droop settings can really help dial your car in. I usually take the allen wrench to the pits with me and play with those settings untill I get the feel I like. It is simple and fast way to dial yourself in
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Old 07-04-2004, 08:14 PM   #13
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can you explain the steering block stuff to me

i am using the red aluminum block it came with and the matching A block i believe

i also have an aluminum block that he gave me seperate i think it may be a B block its blue aluminum

if i switch the 2 blocks the caster is decreased right

if im using 20 degree hubs and the red block what caster do i actually have

i like alot of steering so im guessing you recommend switching to the other blocks
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Old 07-05-2004, 11:38 AM   #14
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Jason I also like using the 20 degree front hubs rather than the 22. Im thinking about taking out my lsd in the front and running a regular diff with 5000. Also I will be going to hobby hut this weekend, do you want me to bring the gt. What tires are working up there, all I have is crimefighters and komodo dragons. Is the hobby shop close to the track, do they stock up on parts pretty good?
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Old 07-05-2004, 02:17 PM   #15
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your really coming???

yeah bring the GT i will paypal money when i have it right now i still am owed money from my auctions and spent everything i had to prepare for the race

for tires i have fake crimefighters, 9011s, and komodo dragons

i wanna get real crimefighters and panther step-pins also

ive been told the tire could be 9011's ive been told the surface is dusty clay when dry when i went it was damp from rain the night before and i coulda used anything since it was sticky red clay it actually had the most traction as the tire packed full of dirt

hobby store is around the corner and down the road a little about 2 minutes by car heard it is poorly stocked never stopped in

your really coming???
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