TQ SX10 4WD...how does it hold up?
#61
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
Monks - if you take the rear hex off and add some spacers to take up the slack - a B44 rim fits with the correct offset. I use J Concepts rims sometimes (just because I like Jason's products!!).
Also if you remove the front hex and put a B44 hex, you can run the fronts as well.
When your ready to redo the shocks check the pistons. The factory has the white pistons in from which make the front end really soft. Black in the front and white in the rear gives a better balance.
As for the new gearcase. When you look at the chassis from the side, the rear shaft should appear to have a very little to non exsisent angle, much less than the front. If the front and rear look the same - it's the old part.
Also if you remove the front hex and put a B44 hex, you can run the fronts as well.
When your ready to redo the shocks check the pistons. The factory has the white pistons in from which make the front end really soft. Black in the front and white in the rear gives a better balance.
As for the new gearcase. When you look at the chassis from the side, the rear shaft should appear to have a very little to non exsisent angle, much less than the front. If the front and rear look the same - it's the old part.
#62
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
Monks - if you take the rear hex off and add some spacers to take up the slack - a B44 rim fits with the correct offset. I use J Concepts rims sometimes (just because I like Jason's products!!).
Also if you remove the front hex and put a B44 hex, you can run the fronts as well.
When your ready to redo the shocks check the pistons. The factory has the white pistons in from which make the front end really soft. Black in the front and white in the rear gives a better balance.
As for the new gearcase. When you look at the chassis from the side, the rear shaft should appear to have a very little to non exsisent angle, much less than the front. If the front and rear look the same - it's the old part.
Also if you remove the front hex and put a B44 hex, you can run the fronts as well.
When your ready to redo the shocks check the pistons. The factory has the white pistons in from which make the front end really soft. Black in the front and white in the rear gives a better balance.
As for the new gearcase. When you look at the chassis from the side, the rear shaft should appear to have a very little to non exsisent angle, much less than the front. If the front and rear look the same - it's the old part.
#63
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
more steering
What are you guys doing to get more overall steering. My friend has a tight track in his back lot and my car was pretty slow getting around the tight and technical layout. Is there a one way out there that will work on the pinion shaft or slipper shaft? looking for options.
thanks
thanks
#64
Tech Regular
No one way sorry but I am sure we can get the car working
#67
wheels
i have one of these and love it, no breakage. i use my zx5 kyosho wheels, axles are a little bigger so but just had to ream them out a tick and walla, hexes are the same.
#68
i have seen people use the kyosho ones. but maybe the easiest is to jump on ebay and get the hexes and washers from a b44. can usually get a complete set for under $10 and then you can use ae wheels or even losi wheels. more places carry those then the kyosho or tq wheels.
#69
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
Ran my 4wd this last weekend on an indoor super tight carpet offroad track. It worked well. I only got a little practice and then we ran quals. The car was very predictable and stable. I made some ride height and camber changes in practice to help with traction rolling. I tried some diff shock positions during qualifying and checked my lap times for comparisons. Ended up with basically my starting point.
front end:
black piston 35wt medium spring
inner hole on tower outer on arm
al. 10 deg hubs no spacer for camber or bump, -2 deg camber on tire
camber link inside on tower
outside hole on ackerman and bellcranks
ride height bones level
rear end:
white piston with 3 holes drilled to #56 30wt medium spring
middle hole on tower outer on arm
al rear hubs spaced middle
camber link inside on tower inside on hub -3 degrees camber
ride height bones just below level
wing with most downforce.
b44.1 punisher body
swith 2.0 (clay) rear tires
losi blockhead (red) front tires
checkpoint 13.5 geared at 22 pinion
lrp spx
front end:
black piston 35wt medium spring
inner hole on tower outer on arm
al. 10 deg hubs no spacer for camber or bump, -2 deg camber on tire
camber link inside on tower
outside hole on ackerman and bellcranks
ride height bones level
rear end:
white piston with 3 holes drilled to #56 30wt medium spring
middle hole on tower outer on arm
al rear hubs spaced middle
camber link inside on tower inside on hub -3 degrees camber
ride height bones just below level
wing with most downforce.
b44.1 punisher body
swith 2.0 (clay) rear tires
losi blockhead (red) front tires
checkpoint 13.5 geared at 22 pinion
lrp spx
#70
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
What are you guys doing to get more overall steering. My friend has a tight track in his back lot and my car was pretty slow getting around the tight and technical layout. Is there a one way out there that will work on the pinion shaft or slipper shaft? looking for options.
thanks
thanks
Last edited by Dave G; 05-31-2011 at 12:59 PM.