1Fastpede

iTrader: (53)

i just put in 5/5/4

JayRC66

Got the same servo on mine. Its really good for the price.

JayRC66

I finally got to run it with the new electronics at LI Raceway, NY. They had changed the track layout. More technical can't really gun it like before.

While attempting to clear the double I Landed nose down and wheel carted like 3x. Broke the wing mount. Then on next try, jumped it again and hit the steel I-beam (money maker). Broke that oval ring that sits behind the front bumper. Heard it crack.

The electronics held up very well. No issues except for the shitty soldering job I did. Had to re-solder up one wire that came loose off the motor.

That new layout is a great challenge.

coryip

iTrader: (4)

I have tried 4,5,2 and 2,7,2 in the diffs running the stock setup posted on nitrohouse. The truck handles well but seems to have a bad on power push that i cant get rid of. I have also driven a few others trucks and they have it also. Tires run have been double Ds, and suburbs.
Does anyone know the spring rates of the stock orange springs or experimented with other springs. I also see an option 4 degree rear toe block on nitrohouse has anyone tried that and whats your thoughts.

iThinman

I am hoping that any remaining steering issues are going to be solved by the fact that I finally realized the BEC voltage on my MMP defaults to 5v and changed it to 6v.

AL3xGR

7K oil is too thick for the front diff?

edit:7/7/3 ? (for street use)

S/X Runner

iTrader: (37)

For street use, just leave the grease in there. It will work like a champ.

ndi_guy

iTrader: (32)

So, what is the cell count everyone is running? 2s, 3, 4, what? Also, would it be best to cut that battery holder so I can run the battery laying down or leave it and run the batts on their side.

S/X Runner

iTrader: (37)

But mine and run saddle packs. :-)

1Fastpede

iTrader: (53)

Ive seen a couple with them laying down. i prefer it laying down.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

Along with the TTs I run 2 Hyper10SC trucks and I cannot tell a difference between the battery lying down or in the standard position. I opted not to lie the battery down in the TT because it causes a small portion of the battery to hang over the chassis. I don't know about you guys, but occasionally shit happens (to me) and I would hate to hit something just right as to split open the case of my $120 battery. That is just my opinion.

iThinman

i have a piece of foam that i have no clue where i got...






...the extra i would only part with for

-R2-

iTrader: (4)

Moving the battery tray foward will help the push that you guys are getting in the car, I did this after a few runs and gives the car the steering you need and also takes away from the bucking that happens when the chassis slaps the edge of the jump, I have also put on the Hyper Sc blue springs and cut one round off the front springs so that I can use the preload to my liking this will improve the corner speed and less chassis pancake.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

Per your instructions I did the blue springs and it worked like a charm. Won't moving the battery forward bring back the nose diving? My car is handling great despite the on power push.

-R2-

iTrader: (4)

I have put my H-SC and my TT and they both have improved on jumping ability it's the rear chassis slapping that's making the buck feel, it doesn't hurt to try it, you can always go back. But when you changed it that push has become less of an issue.