stuartd

post 3681 on this page i would go 14t to be on the safe side

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...hread-246.html

minirider42

iTrader: (1)

the baja looks very good on it

i think i'll give it a try because my raptor isn't going to last long :/

that's sad, my hyper is a little stampede killer with it

for those who want a great 1/10 monster, it's perfect

stuartd

the raptor body looks really cool if you do get the baja body you need some bracing under the rear window which i found out today but doing this by going under a car by accident iam goign to strengthing mine with some shoo goo and a peice of carbon sheet which should make it stronger



i also done this by hitting a curb after i losing my signal for some reason bent driveshaft now straight again thanks god for t-bones bumpers

minirider42

iTrader: (1)

ouch, never bent the front like that... just the rear one on some hard jumps


is that a tenshock motor ?

stuartd

done that a few times but iam hoping to sort that out soon with a cvd well i hope it does heopfully it`s here this week and all find out

doof

Hey guys, I'm running a Castle 4 pole 5700kv motor with 65c lipos.
I'm looking to replace my ESC cuz the 60amp Hobbywing isn't cutting it.
Would a Mamba Max Pro be a good ESC to run it with?
I've been trying to find amperage ratings on them without much success.

stuartd

the maba would eb good but you have to think about were your going to put it as iam sure its abitb bigger then the 60a your running right now or you could try the hobbywing sc-8 esc its 120a and is really good value for the money.

got a quick question for you guys aswell how much do you think i could get for my tt10 as a rtr with three bodys two nano-tech`s 3s lipos hardly used 5 charges and a flysky gt3b controller sc-8 esc and sc-401 motor in 4600kv form loads of hop-ups including the alloy f/r knuckles/hubs

muck

iTrader: (19)

I'D part it down. I think you'll do better that way or trade.

doof

I ended up ordering the Hobbywing SC8.
We'll see how that does.

stuartd

you were right no-one wanted it as is so now its being split all miss it but i need something smaller now

AUSSIEMIKE

The quick answer is yes, but...
I run a 15T to smooth the thing out of corners.
However, i have done alot of work to the drive line to decrease drag.
I also run a motor fan and a esc fan.
I run the HW SC8 esc with 6000kv HW Motor. On 2S nana-tec 5800.
As for the driveline work, its in the diffs mainly.
I have polished the shims, cross pins, all internal gears and the crown and pinion. All the gears have also been chamfered and lightened for better mesh. Its also shimmed off for better clearance. I also run a dry set spray grease on the outdrives.
There is so much more i have done but i will fill a page!
The thing runs very very quick now. Pulls wheel stands on any surface and i rarely need full throttle on a track! Yes it makes a huge difference!
As for the temp, 5 min main, motor is checked at no higher than 60deg c and that was on a 35deg c day.
There is free untapped power in the driveline on any car! They just need to be built right!

Hengsta

iTrader: (1)

Howdy Mike,

Would be keen to know how did you go about polishing the gears and all that to make the diffs awesome?

I'm at that stage where I just want to chuck the thing in the bin as the outer gears in both diffs have hard spots when rolling the car where the gears bind hard with each other.

I do have some 0.2mm shims coming in the mail which I will try and space it out a bit.

AUSSIEMIKE

Howdy mate.

No probs! Do u race at HH?
I have the candy red over silver over white TT.
Come up and say hi next race meet and i can go thru it in more detail.
But the basics are- first, dont chuck it! U will get it right. I have never seen one with a "hard" spot.
The possibilities r either bad gearbox case, not properly aligned gear case, bad outdrive bearings or it could be somethin floating around in the oil. The other thing this could be is too much clearance inside the diff (the spider gears may not be meshing properly)
Take them totally apart, even the pinion gear and bearings out of the gearbox case. Put everything, apart from bearings in a plastic container and hit em with degreaser!
I will add to this post in a couple hrs... Gotta take son to his footy!
Cheers...

SouthFloridaApp

iTrader: (6)

My front arm hinge pin keeps coming out of the plastic front brace. I was thinking of purchasing this to see if it helps.

http://www.teamstrc.com/index.php?ro...product_id=541

Should I purchase this as well? http://www.teamstrc.com/index.php?ro...product_id=543

On another note.. The pillow balls on my front end work themselves out once in a blue moon on the plastic parts when I hit a pipe.. I know Integy makes this...

http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...81&p_catid=305

Has anyone had extensive experience with these? If so, how long, and have you hit pipes, curbs etc. and what has been the outcome... I am reluctant to purchase Integy parts as many have stated that they are low quality.... Is there another company that makes aluminum steering knuckles? Please advise...

Hengsta

iTrader: (1)

Not as yet! I bought a roller not long ago that I'm trying to get up to scratch before I do race.

I should of said it got nothing to do with the spider gears. Its my ring gear and bevel gear the problem that I'm having with.

I did thought about it could be that the ring gear is not square all round on the diff housing and causing it having a hard spot when binding on the bevel gear.