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Old 12-31-2010, 07:09 AM   #1411
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Not sure if you guys have seen this but thought it was sweet.
Does seem to nosedive alittle but fast and sick track.
Looks like he cut his battery trey to lay flat.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AjxIWmJp8dw
That's my local track LOL!

Hobby Habit - Adeliade, South Australia

The guy driving is known as Woody, he's a great guy.

I can confirm he cut his battery tray as you suggest.

We have about 10 people who will be racing the TT ther in the new year.

For those interested he's running a hobbywing 5.5 turn motor and 11 tooth pinion.

Last edited by mister_g; 12-31-2010 at 07:18 AM. Reason: Added info
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Old 12-31-2010, 07:22 AM   #1412
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yep, I made a special effort to build the diffs correctly so the diffs them selves are all good, no noise/binding/friction at all, but when they are in the case its when they bind with the little gear that goes to the center diff. ill take them apart and try rotating the main gear on the diff case, only thing i can think of, but they did make this noise before i took them out of the case...
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Old 12-31-2010, 07:38 AM   #1413
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yep, I made a special effort to build the diffs correctly so the diffs them selves are all good, no noise/binding/friction at all, but when they are in the case its when they bind with the little gear that goes to the center diff. ill take them apart and try rotating the main gear on the diff case, only thing i can think of, but they did make this noise before i took them out of the case...
Both front and back diffs binding ? check and see if the pinion gear has play back and fourth if so just have to reset the dog-bone coupler on the pinion.
After rebuild mine are making the same noise as before rebuild but no binding.
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Old 12-31-2010, 01:13 PM   #1414
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here is my TT.

Its a MMP/10.5 might go 8.5

I modified the battery tray so i could use no foam, the straps hold it super tight this way

upgraded steering bar to turnbuckle style using the thinner AE ball cups and then added ball bearings
Traxxas captured ends throughout
5/5/4 diffoil 35 frt shock 27.5 shock rear.







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Last edited by 1Fastpede; 12-31-2010 at 03:17 PM.
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Old 12-31-2010, 04:56 PM   #1415
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Both front and back diffs binding ? check and see if the pinion gear has play back and fourth if so just have to reset the dog-bone coupler on the pinion.
After rebuild mine are making the same noise as before rebuild but no binding.
righto, will do, ill recheck everything when my skid plates arrive in the mail, argg its so boring just waiting on parts, atm its still just a rolling chassis with a battery and a motor in it, cheers for the tips
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Old 12-31-2010, 07:08 PM   #1416
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Old 12-31-2010, 11:28 PM   #1417
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Originally Posted by Cappy View Post
Both front and back diffs binding ? check and see if the pinion gear has play back and fourth if so just have to reset the dog-bone coupler on the pinion.
After rebuild mine are making the same noise as before rebuild but no binding.
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Originally Posted by redthunder View Post
righto, will do, ill recheck everything when my skid plates arrive in the mail, argg its so boring just waiting on parts, atm its still just a rolling chassis with a battery and a motor in it, cheers for the tips

Ok after redoing the front one and putting this thing all back together i found out that i had the same exact prob as yo mentioned. So i took it all back apart again to loosen (ever so slightly) the screws that hold the main spur to the diff cup. it seems if they are too tight it my bend the spur a bit
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Old 12-31-2010, 11:58 PM   #1418
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Ok after redoing the front one and putting this thing all back together i found out that i had the same exact prob as yo mentioned. So i took it all back apart again to loosen (ever so slightly) the screws that hold the main spur to the diff cup. it seems if they are too tight it my bend the spur a bit
well i just rebuilt the diffs and most of the clicking is gone, tried all those suggestions but cant quite get rid of it completely, perhaps once its been running for a bit the diffs gears will straighten up so they are even through their rotation, have to try it and see...

Last edited by redthunder; 01-01-2011 at 03:01 AM.
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Old 01-01-2011, 06:11 AM   #1419
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That's my local track LOL!

Hobby Habit - Adeliade, South Australia

The guy driving is known as Woody, he's a great guy.

I can confirm he cut his battery tray as you suggest.

We have about 10 people who will be racing the TT ther in the new year.

For those interested he's running a hobbywing 5.5 turn motor and 11 tooth pinion.
Wow a hobbywing, that confirms the ezrun systems will push the TT with no issues. Good to know if anyone is looking for a good cheap powerplant.

Thanks for the info. That track is the coolest track I've seen.
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Old 01-01-2011, 06:16 AM   #1420
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Originally Posted by 1Fastpede View Post
here is my TT.

Its a MMP/10.5 might go 8.5

I modified the battery tray so i could use no foam, the straps hold it super tight this way

upgraded steering bar to turnbuckle style using the thinner AE ball cups and then added ball bearings
Traxxas captured ends throughout
5/5/4 diffoil 35 frt shock 27.5 shock rear.







I like the look of your truck.
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Old 01-01-2011, 07:36 AM   #1421
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Originally Posted by mister_g View Post
That's my local track LOL!

Hobby Habit - Adeliade, South Australia

The guy driving is known as Woody, he's a great guy.

I can confirm he cut his battery tray as you suggest.

We have about 10 people who will be racing the TT ther in the new year.

For those interested he's running a hobbywing 5.5 turn motor and 11 tooth pinion.
Woody is a great guy thats for sure, always willing to help and chat. In that vid though he was running with Mamba gear, not sure exactly what though and is now running the new 120A hobbywing esc and 5.5 in prep for the racing in he new year. He is very happy with the setup, the smile on his face last week said a thousand words lol. He has also sorted out the nose diving.
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Old 01-01-2011, 12:40 PM   #1422
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Old 01-01-2011, 03:26 PM   #1423
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What is the best way to resolve the nose diving? Is it just an adjustment in the setup or is it with the layout of the platform? Whould different springs help? If so what ones work best?
Just trying to get an idea of what i need so I can get in one order.
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Old 01-01-2011, 04:23 PM   #1424
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What is the best way to resolve the nose diving? Is it just an adjustment in the setup or is it with the layout of the platform? Whould different springs help? If so what ones work best?
Just trying to get an idea of what i need so I can get in one order.
Best way is to stay on the throttle somewhat through the jump. After a few tries it will become like second nature. Compared to my Hyper 10SC, my 10TT tends to nosedive a lot less so it hasn't been an issue at all for me.
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Old 01-01-2011, 04:44 PM   #1425
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Ive been running the stock setup since I got mine and as long as I keep on the throttle a little it jumps well. If I let off it nosedives immediately. I think the biggest culprit here is the simple fact that there is so much power and torque on a shorter wheelbase (for an AWD truck) and not to mention this thing weighs much more than other 1/10 scale trucks. Your momentum will keep you level... let off and your just a brick in the air. This is especially noticeable with beefier tires.
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