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Old 12-30-2010, 06:38 AM   #1396
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Originally Posted by S/X Runner View Post
For the street, hat us perfectly fine. As soon as you put it on a track you will not have any steering. 7 in the front won't let the diff unload.
I have read a page which is about diff oils.(but for 1/8 truggies and buggies)They recommend 10K to 7K front.Also I don't have any huge problem with steering.I will get more steering with 2k front?(It seems to be better with 7K oil than grease in the front diff)
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Old 12-30-2010, 07:07 AM   #1397
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I think you will need something more than an ezrun to power this thing (and have a cool motor)It handles great everywhere.
Really! Why is that? I've had the ezrun in my rustler and my slash. The TT is smaller I thought.
How about a motor to run with a MMP? What would you recommend?
I just watched squirrelod review vids on it and it seems to be pretty tough.
Anyone have vids of it off the track?
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Old 12-30-2010, 07:19 AM   #1398
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which is ezrun if you have a 5.5 or 8.5 with the right gearing you'll be o.k....people are running the castle sct system without problems...
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Old 12-30-2010, 07:27 AM   #1399
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which is ezrun if you have a 5.5 or 8.5 with the right gearing you'll be o.k....people are running the castle sct system without problems...
I will give that system a shot for the price. Now for a servo..lol Would a HS645mg work?
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Old 12-30-2010, 07:33 AM   #1400
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im running the hobbywing/ez run 5.5 setup with the 11t pinion on 2S and it seems fine so far...
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Old 12-30-2010, 07:39 AM   #1401
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oh, and i went with the 5625mg and its fine torque-wise (but i'm used to the speed of the 1015), but it'll only be temporary until i get some more $$
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Old 12-30-2010, 08:25 AM   #1402
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It might be ok.Just many ppl run 6.5T or 5.5T motor.(tekin is the most common)
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Old 12-30-2010, 08:42 AM   #1403
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It might be ok.Just many ppl run 6.5T or 5.5T motor.(tekin is the most common)
dont get me wrong brotha, i love tekin stuff and have ran a couple different setups with the rs/pro earlier this year in mod truck and mod buggy. as far as the hobby wing deal - for a 6000kv system at $82 shipped, i figured i couldnt go wrong. times are tight, and i have a complete TT ready to go transponder and all thanks to ez run and hitec
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Old 12-30-2010, 04:50 PM   #1404
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dont get me wrong brotha, i love tekin stuff and have ran a couple different setups with the rs/pro earlier this year in mod truck and mod buggy. as far as the hobby wing deal - for a 6000kv system at $82 shipped, i figured i couldnt go wrong. times are tight, and i have a complete TT ready to go transponder and all thanks to ez run and hitec
I'm with you bro.. Earlier this year I had to sell off everything I had other then my SCX10. Only reason I kept that is I can build things out of styrene with no cost. Right now I'm looking at keeping this as cheap as possible.
Tower is working for me to save money with a combo deal Kit+SCT+HS for alittle over $300 shipped. But first I want to know if this is the right truck for me before I push enter. Things aren't that good yet so it's got to last..lol
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Old 12-30-2010, 05:29 PM   #1405
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what did you use to hold the tray..or did you drill new holes..
Yes I had to drill new holes for the chassis, I took the bottom of the tray and the lead pencil trick on paper and set my new holes up.
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Old 12-30-2010, 06:04 PM   #1406
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Not sure if you guys have seen this but thought it was sweet.
Does seem to nosedive alittle but fast and sick track.
Looks like he cut his battery trey to lay flat.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AjxIWmJp8dw
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Old 12-30-2010, 06:06 PM   #1407
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Ofna TT

Anyone have a used one for sale?
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Old 12-31-2010, 01:41 AM   #1408
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hi all, looking for some advise on something that may or may not be an issue...just cleaned out/rebuilt all the diffs on my tt and at certain points in their rotations there is allot of friction/clicking noise... thought I rebuilt them wrong, so I referred to the manufacture's opinion on how to assemble their product(manual) and nup, all correct, tried loosening the screw that's closest to where the clicks begin/end on the diff gear and tighten the screw directly opposite to even up the gear, but still the clicks/binding is there, so what's the go on this? do others have the same clicking/friction on their diffs? how do i make the bad noise go away?
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Old 12-31-2010, 06:02 AM   #1409
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From what I've read it seems some have had the same problem with diffs. Take them apart check everything. Really all i can find is to redo them.
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Old 12-31-2010, 06:56 AM   #1410
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hi all, looking for some advise on something that may or may not be an issue...just cleaned out/rebuilt all the diffs on my tt and at certain points in their rotations there is allot of friction/clicking noise... thought I rebuilt them wrong, so I referred to the manufacture's opinion on how to assemble their product(manual) and nup, all correct, tried loosening the screw that's closest to where the clicks begin/end on the diff gear and tighten the screw directly opposite to even up the gear, but still the clicks/binding is there, so what's the go on this? do others have the same clicking/friction on their diffs? how do i make the bad noise go away?
If they are binding then you need to disassemble once more. Make sure the sun gear on the bottom of the diff cup is sitting all the way down on that pin and flush with the top of that outdrive . Otherwise you wont get the correct gear mesh
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