Hyper TT 4wd 1/10th Truggy Thread
#2627
Hey guys, Im going to start the ultimate 10tt build, any ideas for hop ups, heres the ideas I have so far...
Starting with a Bump lightened chassis
-STRC-
Delrin spur
CNC Hex adapters
Graphite center upper plate
CNC stand offs
CNC front steering plate
CNC center diff bulkhead
CNC RR carriers
scrt10 bulkhead complete
-SNR-
Graphite servo plate
Graphite shock towers front and rear
Graphite lower plate
-Lunsford-
Titanium shock mounts
Front and rear turnbuckles
Servo to saver turnbuckle
Proline powerstroke shocks
AE long shock bushings
Elite RC motor mount
CVDs in the rear
SS screws
CNC Chassis braces front and rear
CNC Hinge plates all 4
Aluminum diff pins
DE skid plates
downforce black wing
Plus Im going to put bearings in the front steering, and install 6mm balls with screws through them on the front turnbuckle assemblies {also I'll use the entrie scrt bellcrank set up, I made bushing/spacers that fit in the bottom and lower the ackerman bar to clear the drive cup, it makes the front end silly smooth.
And I had to do a lot of playing around with the shocks to figure out the best way to build them for the tt, but the finished product turned out perfect and simple... {now I can do it in 20 minutes, but it costs a little over $100 to do it correctly...
The diffs, were easy, Ive done them a bunch of times, I coat the gaskets with indian head and double them up {the diffs are a little tight with one gasket when there new}, then I polish the thin washer that goes between the pin and oring, and fit the case with the drive cup by machining the rear face of the case {where the bearing sits} a small bit, kind of a touch and feel until its rite, taking off very small amounts at a time...and lastly I used 5000 weight in the rear and center and 1000 in the front... The diffs are super quiet and smooth...
Well, thats where I am so far, I got the shocks set up {tryed them on a friends tt for a weekend}, 3 brand new diffs built, and the steering done}, let me know if there is anything you can think of that I missed...
Starting with a Bump lightened chassis
-STRC-
Delrin spur
CNC Hex adapters
Graphite center upper plate
CNC stand offs
CNC front steering plate
CNC center diff bulkhead
CNC RR carriers
scrt10 bulkhead complete
-SNR-
Graphite servo plate
Graphite shock towers front and rear
Graphite lower plate
-Lunsford-
Titanium shock mounts
Front and rear turnbuckles
Servo to saver turnbuckle
Proline powerstroke shocks
AE long shock bushings
Elite RC motor mount
CVDs in the rear
SS screws
CNC Chassis braces front and rear
CNC Hinge plates all 4
Aluminum diff pins
DE skid plates
downforce black wing
Plus Im going to put bearings in the front steering, and install 6mm balls with screws through them on the front turnbuckle assemblies {also I'll use the entrie scrt bellcrank set up, I made bushing/spacers that fit in the bottom and lower the ackerman bar to clear the drive cup, it makes the front end silly smooth.
And I had to do a lot of playing around with the shocks to figure out the best way to build them for the tt, but the finished product turned out perfect and simple... {now I can do it in 20 minutes, but it costs a little over $100 to do it correctly...
The diffs, were easy, Ive done them a bunch of times, I coat the gaskets with indian head and double them up {the diffs are a little tight with one gasket when there new}, then I polish the thin washer that goes between the pin and oring, and fit the case with the drive cup by machining the rear face of the case {where the bearing sits} a small bit, kind of a touch and feel until its rite, taking off very small amounts at a time...and lastly I used 5000 weight in the rear and center and 1000 in the front... The diffs are super quiet and smooth...
Well, thats where I am so far, I got the shocks set up {tryed them on a friends tt for a weekend}, 3 brand new diffs built, and the steering done}, let me know if there is anything you can think of that I missed...
Almost done, the last parts come on Monday!!!
#2628
You should buy the SNR graphite chassi...Very light..
#2629
I went with the bump because I dont like the single graphite chassis, ussually graphite is good for upper and lower, I just dont want to end up with a broken lightweight chassis.... The bottom of these chassis take a beating, the aluminum will hold up better, also I did the math, the graphite is only 68g less than the bump chassis thats only a little over 2oz's, the price difference is also a factor $140 vs $70.. My brother really wanted my to go with the graphite, but I went with the bump...
#2630
Cool..I ran graphite chassis off an on for 24 yrs.with no problem with no chassi protector.someone now makes chassi protectors for the bottom of the chassi..all you need to do is epoxy the edges of a carbon chassi and your good to go...
I do understand the cost factor,the carbon chassis is a bit pricey..
I do understand the cost factor,the carbon chassis is a bit pricey..
#2631
Cool..I ran graphite chassis off an on for 24 yrs.with no problem with no chassi protector.someone now makes chassi protectors for the bottom of the chassi..all you need to do is epoxy the edges of a carbon chassi and your good to go...
I do understand the cost factor,the carbon chassis is a bit pricey..
I do understand the cost factor,the carbon chassis is a bit pricey..
Also now if you think about it that sticky chassis probably weighs 2 oz's, there goes the savings, and they cost like $13....
#2632
What ESC/motor are you going with?
#2633
#2634
I rum a Tekin RS and a LRP 6.5 with a 11p,I do wheelies down a 100ft straight.
#2635
#2636
540-X-12 vector,comes in after 8 mins.@ 135
#2637
What are you running for a battery, I would prefer a 540 size motor... What pinion are you running?
#2638
11p--maxamps 2c 6500 150 c rating=monster power!!!
#2640