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Old 03-20-2011, 10:48 PM   #2476
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Ic did not realize what pistons you are running..
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Old 03-21-2011, 10:25 AM   #2477
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Is anyone else stripping rim hexes out? I have ruinned one hex and a rim, changed the bad hex and all rims then ruined another rim. Is this common or am I running too much power?
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Old 03-21-2011, 10:32 AM   #2478
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Sackamous-
I am currently running these.
http://www.teamstrc.com/index.php?ro...product_id=549

BUT, even when I ran the stock plastics I never had an issue.
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:49 AM   #2479
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Thanks I'll give those a shot.
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Old 03-21-2011, 01:45 PM   #2480
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It's definitely worth it to change to a locking hex anyway. Then you can get the wheels properly tight without worrying about breaking stub axles so easily.
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Old 03-21-2011, 06:38 PM   #2481
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Originally Posted by drummin89 View Post
I have a slightly used 10TT coming to me sometime this week and I'm trying to decide what electronics I want to run in it. I will mainly be running it on the local tracks just for fun, I'm not aware of any 10th scale 4wd truggy classes at the moment so I'm just after what would work best (without spending more than needed).

At the moment I have a complete system for 10th stadium truck I don't run at all. Its a Ezrun 60amp esc and Ezrun 9t 4300kv brushless motor. Its capable of running up to 3s and for that I have 2 5800mah 3s lipos that I would like to use for which ever setup I end up using. I'm thinking this system would be a bit on the small side for this vehicle and would more than likely run into temp problem and such.

I also have a spare Novak HV 7.5 brushless sensored motor. I was thinking of pairing this up with either a Xerun 120A-SD sensored ESC or maybe a MMP.

Then I also have a Leopard 2350kv sensorless 8th scale brushless motor that I would pair up to maybe a Ezrun 120a SC8 ESC or ???

Any ideas or suggestions on what I should use.


Also still looking for the battery tray size. The battery I have that I'd like to use is 149mm X 30mm.
Ended up going with a MMP and the Novak HV 7.5

Hopefully it will be fine on 3s.
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Old 03-23-2011, 06:46 AM   #2482
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I want one of these, and have 1/8 MMM system laying around. Is that overkill???
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Old 03-24-2011, 07:14 AM   #2483
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Hey guys, I just picked one of these up and wired everything up. I tried searching for recommended suspension positions and setups but can't really find anything on the net. Does anyone have any set ups they want to share? Ride height/shock positioning/toe/camper/shock oils/ect. Thanks.
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Old 03-24-2011, 07:17 AM   #2484
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Originally Posted by Laloosh View Post
Hey guys, I just picked one of these up and wired everything up. I tried searching for recommended suspension positions and setups but can't really find anything on the net. Does anyone have any set ups they want to share? Ride height/shock positioning/toe/camper/shock oils/ect. Thanks.
Finally found a set up that I like and works for me.....
Track Type Indoor
Surface Hard/Dust
Layout Tight turns

Front:
27.5 wt orange springs
Ride height 30mm
Diff 3000
No way bar
Stock shock position
Black ackerman
2.5 Toe Out
-1 Camber

Center
Diff 5000

Rear:
25wt Blue Springs
Ride Height 31mm
Diff 1000
Stock Sway bar
Stock Shock position
-1 Camber
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Old 03-24-2011, 07:42 AM   #2485
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Originally Posted by -R2- View Post
Hyper TT the new competition 1/10th racer now as a truggy with 4wd. We have been at West Coast and OCRC racing and it has been fun. My car has the Novak Havoc Pro Sc with a 8.5ss motor and has decent power, but the car wants more so I'll drop a 6.5 in it. This is fun to drive and handles well so far only one change I have done to the car and still using the stock tires but JConcept Bar Codes are ready to go. We've 7 cars go out and run the two races we had and I finished 2nd in the first one and 4th last night so competition is tight. I can say we have really good indoor car to drive so the thread starts today on talk about the truggy.
There seems to be alot of interest in it. I am seeing more and more of them at OC/RC.
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Old 03-24-2011, 07:44 AM   #2486
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
There seems to be alot of interest in it. I am seeing more and more of them at OC/RC.
Purdy, not like them ugly 1/8th scales who should stick to nitro and let 10th scale car companites come out with a metal Losi.
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Old 03-24-2011, 07:51 AM   #2487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toiffel View Post
Finally found a set up that I like and works for me.....
Track Type Indoor
Surface Hard/Dust
Layout Tight turns

Front:
27.5 wt orange springs
Ride height 30mm
Diff 3000
No way bar
Stock shock position
Black ackerman
2.5 Toe Out
-1 Camber

Center
Diff 5000

Rear:
25wt Blue Springs
Ride Height 31mm
Diff 1000
Stock Sway bar
Stock Shock position
-1 Camber
Why do you run so much toe out in the front. This seems a little strange to me as none of my other cars run any toe out in the front.
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Old 03-24-2011, 07:53 AM   #2488
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for more steering
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Old 03-24-2011, 07:59 AM   #2489
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2.5 toe works well in a small tight track..not so much on an outdoor track with 120 foot straights..i would play it safe and go 2.0 toe out in the front...remove the front sway bar also...shock oils will change with weather also
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Old 03-24-2011, 08:03 AM   #2490
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Originally Posted by tedstryker View Post
2.5 toe works well in a small tight track..not so much on an outdoor track with 120 foot straights..i would play it safe and go 2.0 toe out in the front...remove the front sway bar also...shock oils will change with weather also
Time to get the ruler out again I guess. As far as ride height I had drop both the front and rear as low as they go to get both front and rear a arms level with everything loaded up. After dropping the truck it seems to level out perfect. Are even f and r arms the way to go on this thing?
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