solder
09-02-2010, 07:23 PM
#32
Having said that, I will admit I might not suggest Rubyflud flux to someone who was replacing the SMT components on a speed control, receiver or BEC board. But I seriously doubt that anyone paying attention to this thread is doing that kind of work. From what I've seen, most RC guys can barely solder their wires to a speed control or motor without excess gobs of solder or cold joints. (Most, not all - I claim to be one exception and I am sure there are others.)
You may be confusing the effects of acid flux with paste flux. Acid flux residue can definitely cause corrosion. Not the case with most paste flux, and certainly not the case with Rubyfluid paste flux. I have been using it for a number of years, don't bother cleaning it off, and have had no corrosion.
09-02-2010, 07:53 PM
#33
No confusion on my end. Google's your friend:
"Traditional rosin fluxes are available in non-activated (R), mildly activated (RMA) and activated (RA) formulations. RA and RMA fluxes contain rosin combined with an activating agent, typically an acid, which increases the wettability of metals to which it is applied by removing existing oxides. The residue resulting from the use of RA flux is corrosive and must be cleaned off the piece being soldered. RMA flux is formulated to result in a residue which is not significantly corrosive, with cleaning being preferred but optional."
"Because of the size of the parts involved, and the high activity and contaminating tendency of the flame, plumbing fluxes are typically much more chemically active, and more acidic, than electronic fluxes."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering
"Traditional rosin fluxes are available in non-activated (R), mildly activated (RMA) and activated (RA) formulations. RA and RMA fluxes contain rosin combined with an activating agent, typically an acid, which increases the wettability of metals to which it is applied by removing existing oxides. The residue resulting from the use of RA flux is corrosive and must be cleaned off the piece being soldered. RMA flux is formulated to result in a residue which is not significantly corrosive, with cleaning being preferred but optional."
"Because of the size of the parts involved, and the high activity and contaminating tendency of the flame, plumbing fluxes are typically much more chemically active, and more acidic, than electronic fluxes."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering
09-02-2010, 09:17 PM
#34
I guess it depends on what you are soldering and its susceptibility to corrosion. I know that when I was making slot car chassis out of piano wire I had to clean the chassis after soldering it together or it would rust. But that was steel wire. Again, I wouldn't use plumbing flux for re-soldering a SMT capacitor, but for motor and ESC wires, I've not seen any corrosion from plumbing flux in 10 years of using it on copper wires, motors, and speed controls. Maybe I need to wait longer for the corrosion to appear.
09-07-2010, 09:14 AM
#37
Start at about 600-650F and work your way up. Soldering is a skill that you really need to practice to get proficient. Use a tip that is roughly the same diameter as the wire you're attempting to solder. It should hold enough heat to heat the wire and solder quickly so that you don't heat soak the parts and possibly ruin them.
08-17-2011, 05:47 PM
#38
i use 60/40 solder you can get wire and solder from cheapbatterypacks.com
08-17-2011, 07:22 PM
#39
08-17-2011, 07:26 PM
#40
The best way how to solder is to buy an expensive solder station like the Hakko station with the spin button temperature control. The key to good soldering is to put solder on both items you want to connect one at a time and then join them together at the end. This work well for battery connections, motor connections and plugs. Remember, heat becomes an enemy and can ruin your expensive equipment if you stay too long on the joints. With a good high-temp station, you shouldn't have to apply heat for more then 5 seconds. I also want to emphasize that smelling the fume is toxic. Some people may disagree but if it's not the natural air we breathe outside, it's toxic and you need a little fan to blow away the smoke. Last but not least, always wear safety googles. People laugh when I say that but soldering can splatter and sometimes "jump". If you care for your eyes, don't let people's laughter take your sight away from you. You need them good eyes to win races with.
I really like the Hakko. Gets hot super fast!
08-17-2011, 07:28 PM
#41
I guess it depends on what you are soldering and its susceptibility to corrosion. I know that when I was making slot car chassis out of piano wire I had to clean the chassis after soldering it together or it would rust. But that was steel wire. Again, I wouldn't use plumbing flux for re-soldering a SMT capacitor, but for motor and ESC wires, I've not seen any corrosion from plumbing flux in 10 years of using it on copper wires, motors, and speed controls. Maybe I need to wait longer for the corrosion to appear.
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