BestNThDez

Does anybody ever use an acutal ride height measurement (number) for the Associated SC10's or does everybody just visulaize "bones level" and "arms level"? It seems that most other cars/trucks have an actual millimeter meauserment, but I can't find any of the "number" measurements for the SC10. Does this mean that I shouldn't waste the money on a ride height guage? If there is a measurement, what do you use? Last question, when they says "arms Level", I'm assuming that as you look from the front of the truck at the arms, you actually need to have your head raised about 6" or so above the front of the truck as you are looking at the arms to be able to get a true horizontal view of the arms, versus directly in front of the truck at the same level as the front arms (which makes it hard to distinguish if the arms are acutally horizontal/level)? Is this right? Thanks for the help.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I think they don't post ride heights because it depends on what tires you run so that variable alone makes the measurement inconsistant.

I use a small bubble level to see if the arm are level or not. I drop the truck and then slide the level onto the arm, careful not to disturb the truck.

Wild Cherry

Using the Ae gauge

Ft 35 m = arm level

Rear 34 m = dog bone level

using Proline Suburb Ft & Back


Measure ft right behind ft arm on level part of chassis

Measure rear under back of chassis plate

I personally find the Ae gauge very useful , well worth having in the tool box.

Cameron Kellogg

iTrader: (45)

Is this set with the body on of off?

Wild Cherry

Body on always

ChrisAttebery

iTrader: (121)

Do you honestly think that 1-2mm is going to make a noticeable difference? Unless you're a Pro I doubt it. I would think that getting the preload even side to side would be more important than getting the height perfect.

Wild Cherry

Ride height is a very important adjust ..


1 m ?
maybe not notice

2m ?
easy to notice

3m huge
Of course check the preload is equal on both sides of the shocks..

I personally use a inexpensive caliber for checking

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

I usually set my ride height "bone" level for the rear and the front are *slightly* higher than arms level, since the fronts are taking the brunt of an impact when approaching jumps.

Using bone-level or arm-level to set your ride height makes it independent of tires.

I don't understand how tires can ever affect a ride-height when the consideration should be on bones or arms? Can someone please enlighten me how tires affect ride height besides the diameter of the tires making the entire vehicle have more/less clearance above ground?

BestNThDez

Tom, I think what they are referring to is that if you have some "taller" tires mounted, the ride height measurement you get may be a lot bigger than if you had some really low profile tires mounted which would give you a smaller/shorter measurement. So basically it sounds like this is the reason that they say bones and arms level and not so much a number measurement (which alleviates differences between tires).

Johnny, how exactly do you use a bubble level to check the front arms? I can see using a straight edge under the arns to make sure they are "flat" or "Horizontal", but I don't understand the bubble level thing.

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

My guess is the bubble leveler is used to "balance" between left and right?

Audiobahnaholic

iTrader: (44)

On mine I usually run 30-32m front and 29-30 rear. I like to have mine as low as possible to eliminate the top heavy body syndrome these trucks have. Works great for me. I also don't follow any of the AE setups. I run AE 40wt shock oil all around with 10K in the diff. Much better handling than any of the posted AE setups. In my personal opinion the lighter oils are too soft but it could possibly be a trade off. I can get away with a lower right height with stiffer oils.