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Old 08-18-2010, 08:01 PM   #1
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Default SC10 Factory Team Kit - any upgrades needed?

Been lurking in these RC sites for some time.... Was originally thinking about the RTR SC10 Brushless package.... but everyone speaks of "happiness" when refering to the Factory Team Kit and the knowledge you will have after building your truck from the hubs up..... Several questions:

1) Can you have the chasis completely built with out the motor or electrics added..... or would you have to completely tear it back down once you have the funds to install the electrics and motor you want??? (worded differently... do you get to a point when building that you cant go further without having your electrics ready to go?)

2) What upgrades should you pick up before you even start building the FT Kit... I hear guys mention skid plates.... what else??

3) What is a good Brushless Motor with ESC / Gear combo to start with that is middle of the road for both price... and efficiency (balanced for torque and speed) ...

Thanks for any input
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Old 08-18-2010, 08:20 PM   #2
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You should be ok to build the truck completely without electronics.

I dont know about the skid plates I just run the truck stock. You might try the new hubs AE has coming out that are aluminum and have a bigger outer bearing and more toe in. They have a few different degrees coming out.

Electronics I recommend LRP Brushless combos. The combo depends on if you are going to race or play around. If racing I would check with what the local track rules are.
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Old 08-18-2010, 08:53 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CodyJandrakovic View Post
You should be ok to build the truck completely without electronics.

I dont know about the skid plates I just run the truck stock. You might try the new hubs AE has coming out that are aluminum and have a bigger outer bearing and more toe in. They have a few different degrees coming out.

Electronics I recommend LRP Brushless combos. The combo depends on if you are going to race or play around. If racing I would check with what the local track rules are.
+1

the new hubs are tops.
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Old 08-18-2010, 08:57 PM   #4
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novak havoc/17.5,13.5, etc combos can be had for $150 i do believe.
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Old 08-18-2010, 09:54 PM   #5
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If you are going to run the 17.5 class, I suggest the LRP SXX comp, TC spec or Tekin RS. I run the RPM front skid plate and bumper. It ties in the weaker part of the chassis to the beefier part. Even though AE has increased strength in that area, I didn't want to take a chance.
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Old 08-18-2010, 10:34 PM   #6
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Definitely RPM ballcups.

ThunderbirdJunkie uses captured rod ends on the rear camber links. Not necessary, but it has reduced the number of ballcup pop-offs that he has had to zero. There has been no rearend related breakage aside from one of the toe blocks.

It's a standard kit, not an FT, but AE's ballcups have always been crapola ITBJHO
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Old 08-19-2010, 12:20 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie View Post
Definitely RPM ballcups.

ThunderbirdJunkie uses captured rod ends on the rear camber links. Not necessary, but it has reduced the number of ballcup pop-offs that he has had to zero. There has been no rearend related breakage aside from one of the toe blocks.

It's a standard kit, not an FT, but AE's ballcups have always been crapola ITBJHO
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And to answer OP - yes you can build it up without your electronics.

You may have to take a coupla screws back out but not much.
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Old 08-19-2010, 02:03 AM   #8
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ThunderbirdJunkie is not sure why somebody would hit the quote button, not delete the picture from said quote, and then post directly after the person he quoted, but, hey...

Also, have not broken a chassis plate but ThunderbirdJunkie soon after buying his truck replaced his stock bumper with the RPM front bumper and after lots of bashing, bad landings, ramming stuff, and general idiotic driving and have not broken anything chassis-related.

Hell, the only time ThunderbirdJunkie has broken a front arm is when he clipped a concrete drainage pipe at full speed.

Anyway...the RPM ballcups are the only thing that are absolutely "necessary". ThunderbirdJunkie also recommends sticking with the stock SC10 wheels, since the JConcepts (only aftermarket 1 piece wheel currently for the SC10) have had LOTS of runout on both sets he has had and have caused some pretty notable vibration while driving on the ONE set that has tires glued to it.

Another thing is to get some 3mm shock o-rings for when you build the shocks. At first you'll have a little stiction but they'll wear in. Definitely use green slime on them when building the shocks, but if you've owned an Associated car before you know all this.

uhh...

Captured rod ends on the rear camber links seems to meet with limited acceptance. ThunderbirdJunkie has been happy with the rearend strength of his SC10 since he did that, but there are a lot of people that don't think it's a great idea.
Granted, most of these people have probably not done it.

Can't speak specifically for the FT, but these are general SC10 notes.

BTW, with the SC10 you can, indeed, build the kit without the radio and motor/ESC no problem. ThunderbirdJunkie did the same; built the truck while waiting for his motor/ESC and Rx.

For mockup directly after the build to set the truck up he used an old brushed motor, NIMH SxS pack and a Cyclone ESC to make sure the ride height, camber, and toe at weight was close.
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