lipo help please

Old 07-26-2010, 06:16 PM
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Default lipo help please

Hay guys, just need a little help, I have a HB ve8 buggey Im running a 3s lipo 5400 25c and a 5200 50c, with a the momba 2650 setup, I have a 17 tooth pinnon gear and stock sper gear. so here goes all of a sudden my batteryis getting hoter than normal, Im new to this so any help would be great and I dont know too much about the high tech talk about this yet still learning, Thanks
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Old 07-26-2010, 07:40 PM
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The 2650 puts a hurtin' on 3S Lipos. How's your motor heat and ESC? Also, in summer, ambient temps outside can help heat things up more than usual.

A summer tip is to lower your pinion by 1T or 2T. Do you have any others like a 15T or 16T? What pinion choices have you run over the past?

I'm loving a move in my buggy from 2650/3S to 1800/4S. Lower heat issues and more runtime (slightly heavier with the 4th cell).
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Old 07-26-2010, 07:43 PM
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For $20-30 you should get a temp gauge. For lipos if i recall correctly you don't want it to go over 140F. If you're under 140F after running a full pack then you should be ok.
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Old 07-26-2010, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jmcvicker View Post
The 2650 puts a hurtin' on 3S Lipos. How's your motor heat and ESC? Also, in summer, ambient temps outside can help heat things up more than usual.

A summer tip is to lower your pinion by 1T or 2T. Do you have any others like a 15T or 16T? What pinion choices have you run over the past?

I'm loving a move in my buggy from 2650/3S to 1800/4S. Lower heat issues and more runtime (slightly heavier with the 4th cell).
my motor heat is about is about 150 to 165 ish I have a temp from my gas stuff. The pinion 18, I tried a 16 but it was to small the break hit the motor< the esc temp is good should I try to find a 1800 4s what do you have for the c number.
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Old 07-26-2010, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by HB Willy View Post
For $20-30 you should get a temp gauge. For lipos if i recall correctly you don't want it to go over 140F. If you're under 140F after running a full pack then you should be ok.
Ya, that is what I thought my batt temp is around 110- 125 but it seems like the packs puff up a little, Im running the hard case Fantom packs,
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Old 07-26-2010, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jmcvicker View Post
The 2650 puts a hurtin' on 3S Lipos. How's your motor heat and ESC? Also, in summer, ambient temps outside can help heat things up more than usual.

A summer tip is to lower your pinion by 1T or 2T. Do you have any others like a 15T or 16T? What pinion choices have you run over the past?

I'm loving a move in my buggy from 2650/3S to 1800/4S. Lower heat issues and more runtime (slightly heavier with the 4th cell).
OH the motor heat is about 140- 160 and it has been over 85 pluse out and live in mich.
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Old 07-26-2010, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jdawg View Post
Ya, that is what I thought my batt temp is around 110- 125 but it seems like the packs puff up a little, Im running the hard case Fantom packs,
Whoa that can't be good if they're puffing......u should take a pic and post on here next time it puffs up on ya. I would imagine your packs are even warmer inside the case if it's reading 125 on the outside.
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Old 07-26-2010, 08:33 PM
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So did u say your packs never got this warm before on your current setup?

Check for any binding in your drivetrain and also check your motor gear mesh and make sure it hasn't shifted too close to the spur.
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Old 07-26-2010, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by HB Willy View Post
So did u say your packs never got this warm before on your current setup?

Check for any binding in your drivetrain and also check your motor gear mesh and make sure it hasn't shifted too close to the spur.
I have had the same set up from day one, The motor and spur seem good just enough all the rest seems smooth, and the packs never seem to get puffed up they got warm but never puffed up.
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Old 07-26-2010, 08:42 PM
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Oh i misunderstood ya, thought you said they puffed up a little.

Well even though your packs get warm, maybe they're not warm enough to really do any damage to them. I guess time will tell.

I know on my Ve8 I run a 2250kv on 4S and two of my Turnigy 4500mah 4S lipos get fairly warm after a run whereas my Protek 5400 4S pretty much stay at the ambient temp.
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Old 07-26-2010, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by HB Willy View Post
Oh i misunderstood ya, thought you said they puffed up a little.

Well even though your packs get warm, maybe they're not warm enough to really do any damage to them. I guess time will tell.

I know on my Ve8 I run a 2250kv on 4S and two of my Turnigy 4500mah 4S lipos get fairly warm after a run whereas my Protek 5400 4S pretty much stay at the ambient temp.
Ya the packs do puff up a bit Im sending one back because there was a gap in the case about 1/4 of an inch or so and I only have about 5 charges on it, sorry my wording and typing stink.
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Old 07-26-2010, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jdawg View Post
Hay guys, just need a little help, I have a HB ve8 buggey Im running a 3s lipo 5400 25c and a 5200 50c, with a the momba 2650 setup, I have a 17 tooth pinnon gear and stock sper gear. so here goes all of a sudden my batteryis getting hoter than normal, Im new to this so any help would be great and I dont know too much about the high tech talk about this yet still learning, Thanks
When running 3s in 1/8 cars you want to make sure you have the very best lipos money can buy. That setup pulls a ton of amps which puts a hurting on the batteries. A hot lipo means the pack is struggling to supply the amps demanded by the motor. More amps equal heat.

This is why people generally run 4s and a lot of us prefer 5s & 6s. As the voltage goes up, you don't need as many amps to create the same power so the temps on the ESC and battery tend to be much lower.
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Old 07-26-2010, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Edumakated View Post
When running 3s in 1/8 cars you want to make sure you have the very best lipos money can buy. That setup pulls a ton of amps which puts a hurting on the batteries. A hot lipo means the pack is struggling to supply the amps demanded by the motor. More amps equal heat.

This is why people generally run 4s and a lot of us prefer 5s & 6s. As the voltage goes up, you don't need as many amps to create the same power so the temps on the ESC and battery tend to be much lower.
What would you think would be a good lips and the mah number and the c number Im kind of a little lost with this stuff, Just got out of gas cars.
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Old 07-26-2010, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jdawg View Post
What would you think would be a good lips and the mah number and the c number Im kind of a little lost with this stuff, Just got out of gas cars.
Since you already have the 2650 motor, you are probably better just buying 4s 4500-5000 batteries and then turning down your epa down a little bit too control the power. The 2650 motor is way overpowered and generally useless for racing. That motor is kind of like running .28 in a buggy. This is why people run it on 3s. On 4s that motor is just plain retarded.

The most common setup is 4s 1900 or 2050 which is enough power to run with a typical nitro. A good balance of power and efficiency/runtime. Probably a tad faster than most nitros but not quite as powerful as some of the best tuned engines. It will out accelerate every nitro though.

C rating means how well the pack can supply the power. The higher the C rating, the better. However, some battery companies over rate their batteries, but is a good proxy. A 45c battery will have way more punch than a 25c pack. When running 3s, you want the highest C rating you can find along with the best quality cells available. Flightpower, Thunderpower, Hyperion.
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Old 07-26-2010, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Edumakated View Post
Since you already have the 2650 motor, you are probably better just buying 4s 4500-5000 batteries and then turning down your epa down a little bit too control the power. The 2650 motor is way overpowered and generally useless for racing. That motor is kind of like running .28 in a buggy. This is why people run it on 3s. On 4s that motor is just plain retarded.

The most common setup is 4s 1900 or 2050 which is enough power to run with a typical nitro. A good balance of power and efficiency/runtime. Probably a tad faster than most nitros but not quite as powerful as some of the best tuned engines. It will out accelerate every nitro though.

C rating means how well the pack can supply the power. The higher the C rating, the better. However, some battery companies over rate their batteries, but is a good proxy. A 45c battery will have way more punch than a 25c pack. When running 3s, you want the highest C rating you can find along with the best quality cells available. Flightpower, Thunderpower, Hyperion.
WOW thanks, that helps ALOT so I will check into a 4s pack and have a c rating up a bit like 30 to 50c that should help, so I will have a ton of punch and good run time.
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