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Old 08-19-2010, 11:00 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by Briguy View Post
Sorry , didn`t realizing making another trip to your car to carry a bag in was such an ordeal . Your track must have some nasty pits if you have to worry about dirt and grime getting in your computer . Yet , I see you have a Tekin ESC
Man, I want to live in your perfect world where everything is so easy. Not everybody runs at a nice clean indoor carpet track bud.

Of course I have a Tekin. It's a great ESC.
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Old 08-19-2010, 11:03 AM   #47
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an extra bag for an LCD box? WFT? my Speedpassion fits in my pocket... i can ever fit the servo lead in there! LOL
LCD This! We were talking about LAPTOPS, Einstein.
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Old 08-19-2010, 11:08 AM   #48
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YA i dont need one at the track is my point... Poor Tekin guys! LOL

And really if this is a big issue, you could get all your tekin guys to toss 20$ into a pot and go buy a used PC and leave it at the track,. We had an old PC set up at our last track and it held all kinds of usefull RC stuff for anyone at the track to use... When i find the time i may build one again for our current track so the tekin guys dont have to carry in another bag
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Old 08-19-2010, 11:12 AM   #49
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besides. We dont carry in the T35 anymore, nor do we carry in the motor lathe or discharge tray or toast. Plenty of room has been saved post LIPO and Brushless. Surely we can fit a laptop in our pit bag?

Truly this is a funny topic.
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Old 08-19-2010, 11:12 AM   #50
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YA i dont need one at the track is my point... Poor Tekin guys! LOL

And really if this is a big issue, you could get all your tekin guys to toss 20$ into a pot and go buy a used PC and leave it at the track,. We had an old PC set up at our last track and it held all kinds of usefull RC stuff for anyone at the track to use... When i find the time i may build one again for our current track so the tekin guys dont have to carry in another bag
Ah, I see. The sarcasm flew right over my head. That's a good idea though. Having a universal PC in the pits is smart.
I hope Tekin comes out with a product like Castle has. That little tuning card is a great idea.
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Old 08-19-2010, 11:17 AM   #51
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Ya with the low cost or free used pcs laying around in most peoples homes its good idea to set up a box for the track.. I think we had it update race results real time at one point.. kept guys out of the race directors space!
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Old 08-19-2010, 06:25 PM   #52
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The new Tekin software has a "spec" mode where there is an LED that blinks indicating zero timing in the esc. I believe all "new" or coming soon esc's will have something visual on them to indicate a "spec" mode as well. Now they just need to control the motors because people will just be cranking the timing up in the motors to get over the lack of timing in the esc's.
Sounds like somebody's never glued a Green Machine sticker to a Speed Gems Jade can and put bushings in it just to see if you could get away with it

Dude, do you honestly believe that an enterprising individual wouldn't be capable of cracking the code for firmware just so he could get a *little* timing bump in a 17.5 or 13.5 class and have the doodad still blink green?

Do you honestly believe (and not saying they are doing, will do, or have done this) that Tekin, Novak, and LRP are incapable of having an "unpublished" firmware update that allows you to do the same thing?

Just sayin'; ThunderbirdJunkie doesn't race now, but if you ain't cheatin' you ain't tryin'
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Old 08-19-2010, 07:23 PM   #53
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Dude, do you honestly believe that an enterprising individual wouldn't be capable of cracking the code for firmware just so he could get a *little* timing bump in a 17.5 or 13.5 class and have the doodad still blink green?

Do you honestly believe (and not saying they are doing, will do, or have done this) that Tekin, Novak, and LRP are incapable of having an "unpublished" firmware update that allows you to do the same thing?
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There will always be a way to tune something. Even if you want to go to the factory defaults on the same ESC, someone can change things and it not be detected.

Even with the blinking certain lights, I am sure that there are some computer guys out there that can make it happen.

Your not going to get a true "SPEC" class unless everyone uses the same ESC, battery and motor. I believe even the Novak motors come with 30 degrees timing from the factory.

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Old 08-20-2010, 07:52 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie View Post
Sounds like somebody's never glued a Green Machine sticker to a Speed Gems Jade can and put bushings in it just to see if you could get away with it

Dude, do you honestly believe that an enterprising individual wouldn't be capable of cracking the code for firmware just so he could get a *little* timing bump in a 17.5 or 13.5 class and have the doodad still blink green?

Do you honestly believe (and not saying they are doing, will do, or have done this) that Tekin, Novak, and LRP are incapable of having an "unpublished" firmware update that allows you to do the same thing?

Just sayin'; ThunderbirdJunkie doesn't race now, but if you ain't cheatin' you ain't tryin'

And that is why I race mod where the rules don't care what your settings are at, just so long as you are using a legal motor.
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Old 08-20-2010, 09:22 AM   #55
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The "stock" and "spec" classes always come full circle back to the point where some racers think its too fast, or its too much involvment, or its too expensive.

Since the same senerio happens over and over again, you just have to wait it out until the speed comes back to where you like it.

Technology, speed, and cost is the way it is because thats what the majority wants.
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Old 08-20-2010, 09:46 AM   #56
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And that is why I race mod where the rules don't care what your settings are at, just so long as you are using a legal motor.
Most places, where I race at, arnt that strict on some of the rules. I mean its apparent when the shop owners just go and break the rules they put in place...
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Old 08-20-2010, 09:48 AM   #57
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Most places, where I race at, arnt that strict on some of the rules. I mean its apparent when the shop owners just go and break the rules they put in place...
Call them out on it. Thats what I do.
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Old 08-20-2010, 09:49 AM   #58
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We don't need a programming card/widgit. With 208 you can save your own custom profiles right into the unit. You want to switch between them? Oh simply press the mode button a few times, than the Inc button a few times, done!

If you don't like the bells and whisltes of the new "stock" classes run mod! I do and I still like stock. Everyone knows I'll be the first one to give you my esc setup. You still have to beat me with it...
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Old 08-20-2010, 09:57 AM   #59
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We don't need a programming card/widgit. With 208 you can save your own custom profiles right into the unit. You want to switch between them? Oh simply press the mode button a few times, than the Inc button a few times, done!

If you don't like the bells and whisltes of the new "stock" classes run mod! I do and I still like stock. Everyone knows I'll be the first one to give you my esc setup. You still have to beat me with it...
I forgot that the 208 does that. I just like the interface on the comuter too much to not use the computer though. Much better than 203. Just curious, Randy, the "4 step guidline" that I posted on Page 2 of this thread.. is that somewhat accurate? I'm just curious, because I want to know if that is a good way to get a baseline setup going for the RS/RX8..

EDIT: I'll just re iterate it into this post. Let me know if I am close

Step 1: Leave the default settings on the RS alone. In this step, only worry about the MOTOR timing. Get it to where you have the launch that you want. Basically meaning the hardest it can pull without actually losing traction and upsetting the chassis.

Step 2: Once you have that figured out, now bust into the RS. Start with a very small adjustment in the Timing Boost. Get it set to where you have the acceleration needed without losing traction and to where you aren't over heating the motor because of too much timing. For starting out, I would suggest a range of 5,000rpm-20,000rpm. Tweak if you deem necessary.

Step 3: Now that that is all done, we need to figure out if there is enough room on the track to get to top speed. If you top out BEFORE you get 2/3 of the way down the longest straight, then we can play with Turbo. If you are not topping out at the end of this straight section by the 2/3 mark, then you are done.

Step 4: Play with the Turbo settings for a bit, see if you can get it to top speed by the end of that 2/3 mark. When you are at an acceptable point, try to put down the fastest lap time you can get. Then remove only the Turbo from your programming, and see what you can get for best lap times. Then choose the setting that allows for you to get the fastest lap times overall. Remember, consistency is key on that. If you are putting down faster lap times with the turbo but it is hard to control, you may need to turn down the turbo or just take it completely off.

I may get be missing something somewhere, but that is my thinking.
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