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Kyosho Ultima SC-R Thread

Kyosho Ultima SC-R Thread

Old 03-07-2013, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by K. PORTER View Post
I have been running the new MIP cvd's for about 3 weeks now and the axles seem to hold up well but I am not a fan of how their hex fits on the keyed axle AT ALL. The hex is almost impossible to get on the axle straight and the little set screw they use (.05) drives me nuts. They use that same size set screw in the CVD also.

The 2 problems I have found with the wheel hex are as follows:

1. The aluminum is WAY too soft. Give it 3-4 good race days and you will see where the hex starts to round out on the inside causing slop.

2. When you go to tighten the set screw on the hex the whole hex wants to tweak the way you are tightening it on the axle (cause of the slop). At first you dont really notice it but once you put your wheel on and give it a little throttle you will see how much the wheel wobbles.

The only work around I have come up with was before tightening the hex set screw, put an old bearing over axle and then install your wheel nut (without the wheel), tighten wheel nut so that it pushes the bearing into the hex and then tighten down the set screw. The bearing helps align the hex on the axle but even doing it this way was not perfect.

I like the keyed axle idea but the hexes need some refinement.

I'm going to go back to my stock Kyosho swing shafts and FLM axles. Never had issues with that combo.

Just my $.02
Well after 5 mins. Last night. I was good. I'll check and see how it holds up.
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by K. PORTER View Post
I have been running the new MIP cvd's for about 3 weeks now and the axles seem to hold up well but I am not a fan of how their hex fits on the keyed axle AT ALL. The hex is almost impossible to get on the axle straight and the little set screw they use (.05) drives me nuts. They use that same size set screw in the CVD also.

The 2 problems I have found with the wheel hex are as follows:

1. The aluminum is WAY too soft. Give it 3-4 good race days and you will see where the hex starts to round out on the inside causing slop.

2. When you go to tighten the set screw on the hex the whole hex wants to tweak the way you are tightening it on the axle (cause of the slop). At first you dont really notice it but once you put your wheel on and give it a little throttle you will see how much the wheel wobbles.

The only work around I have come up with was before tightening the hex set screw, put an old bearing over axle and then install your wheel nut (without the wheel), tighten wheel nut so that it pushes the bearing into the hex and then tighten down the set screw. The bearing helps align the hex on the axle but even doing it this way was not perfect.

I like the keyed axle idea but the hexes need some refinement.

I'm going to go back to my stock Kyosho swing shafts and FLM axles. Never had issues with that combo.

Just my $.02
I had the same fitment problems you mentioned, until I took out all the shims. The hexes fit perfect now, no problems at all. You have to remove all the shims for the hexes to fit properly. Even though I have only one practice day and one race day on these parts, I have had no problems with the hexes rounding out.
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:57 AM
  #4548  
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Originally Posted by Jonathan Paulk View Post
I had the same fitment problems you mentioned, until I took out all the shims. The hexes fit perfect now, no problems at all. You have to remove all the shims for the hexes to fit properly. Even though I have only one practice day and one race day on these parts, I have had no problems with the hexes rounding out.
Not sure removing the spacer I have is going to do much except allow the hex to get a little closer to the hub. The problem is the inside of the hex is rounding out causing the slop. It's only rounding out a smidge but it's enough to cause major wobble if it's not on there exactly perpendicular to the axle. And I only run mod so any little vibration is amplified!

Please keep me updated after you have a chance to run on them for a little and let me know how they are holding up.

Thanks!
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by K. PORTER View Post
Not sure removing the spacer I have is going to do much except allow the hex to get a little closer to the hub. The problem is the inside of the hex is rounding out causing the slop. It's only rounding out a smidge but it's enough to cause major wobble if it's not on there exactly perpendicular to the axle. And I only run mod so any little vibration is amplified!

Please keep me updated after you have a chance to run on them for a little and let me know how they are holding up.

Thanks!
Are you talking about the bearing spacer? I was referring to the 3x5mm shims that are used take the slack out of the axle play.
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Jonathan Paulk View Post
Are you talking about the bearing spacer? I was referring to the 3x5mm shims that are used take the slack out of the axle play.
We are talking about the same thing. I just call it a spacer. The piece that goes between the hub and hex right?
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:02 AM
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What are the best aftermarket wheels for this truck?
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by K. PORTER View Post
We are talking about the same thing. I just call it a spacer. The piece that goes between the hub and hex right?
I'm pretty sure the bearing spacer is gold colored. There are also the thin spacers as mentioned to remove any excess play at the axle....
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by SAMCRO View Post
What are the best aftermarket wheels for this truck?
I own several brands.....Proline, DE Racing, Kyosho, etc and they all work ok. The DE are most likely my favorite followed by Proline.....

Matt
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:36 PM
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Default BB Shocks

What do you use for internal limiters on the big bore shocks?

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Old 03-12-2013, 08:48 AM
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Has anyone raised the esc to mount in the middle rear?
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:09 AM
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help guys - The current (if I can find one) Ultima SC-R SP. I have never owned a Kyosho SCT. Is this kit worth the money? OR wait for I guess is a new one coming soon? If I buy an SP - what upgrades do I need right out of the box? Thanks.
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:33 AM
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the only upgrades you would need are the x gear springs,yellow front, yellow/red rear.
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:41 AM
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I have been making some tools for kyosho cars for a couple months now and would love to share them with as many kyosho drivers as possible. The first tool is a kyosho shock tool for removing the shock cartridge, its a great replacement for the one that comes with the kit and strips out easly. It costs $12 in the u.s and 15 overseas. the second tool s a turn buckle wrench that has three sizes on it. the one side has 2 sizes in it that fit the kyosho turnbuckles as well as the lundsford and ae turnbuckle. it will also fit durangos and any car with a 4mm turmbuckle. the other side is 5.5mm and fits all kyosho 10th scale trucks, the losi 4wd sc and some 8th scale vehicles This wrench is $17 in the u.s. and $19 for over seas. if any of you are interested please email me at [email protected] as i am not always on the forums. thank you for your time and i hope to be able to provide some of you some great tools..
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by noworries View Post
help guys - The current (if I can find one) Ultima SC-R SP. I have never owned a Kyosho SCT. Is this kit worth the money? OR wait for I guess is a new one coming soon? If I buy an SP - what upgrades do I need right out of the box? Thanks.

Mads- Kyosho has been out of SC trucks for quite some time. A new SC truck is in the works based off the RB6 platform. I already have some on order and they don't exist yet - heh heh.

I have a ton of Kyosho parts in stock as well, (not yet on website) so don't hesitate to call. Can't wait to rub fenders with you soon!
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Old 03-13-2013, 09:22 PM
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Is this the same as the old putnam brushes?

Those were awesome at the time, dare I say legendary brushes for stock
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