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Kyosho Ultima SC-R Thread

Kyosho Ultima SC-R Thread

Old 03-03-2013, 06:13 PM
  #4531  
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I really like the way my SC-R handles using the 3mm offset wheels.
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Old 03-05-2013, 03:26 AM
  #4532  
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Guys does this sound correct? I have 20g on top of bulkhead, 15g on rx side which also has transponder and stuff on that side, i then have no weight on the other side because I have esc there. Full length battery pack all the way forward. I then also have alum hubs and hangers.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:19 AM
  #4533  
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Originally Posted by OMG23RC View Post
Guys does this sound correct? I have 20g on top of bulkhead, 15g on rx side which also has transponder and stuff on that side, i then have no weight on the other side because I have esc there. Full length battery pack all the way forward. I then also have alum hubs and hangers.
There is no "correct". You run weight in different places, depending on your weight goals. I run 0 weight in my SCR, with a shorty. (well.. I run a 10 gram next to my receiver for balance). But that's it. Super high traction, lighter tends to be better. Medium or low traction, you might want a heavier truck for more grip. 100% depends on the rest of your setup, and the nature of your track and surface.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Hoese37 View Post
SC10 wheels have less offset. They make the track width narrower, which makes the truck change direction quicker, but make it more sketchy.
Narrow will make the truck change direction slower, and will be less sketchy. More narrow = lower roll center. Lower roll center = more roll. More roll = more mid corner grip, more roll = slower direction changes.
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Old 03-06-2013, 02:57 PM
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I am pulling a senior moment. Rebuilding my diff. Had it apart for a few days. What side does the diff screw head go on, left or right? Any help would be great.
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by coltsfan View Post
I am pulling a senior moment. Rebuilding my diff. Had it apart for a few days. What side does the diff screw head go on, left or right? Any help would be great.
The screw head goes on the driver side. Easy to remember because you can't get to the hole in the outdrive to adjust your diff, if it is on the passenger side. Can't really get to it with the gear and cover in place.
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:07 PM
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Thank You
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:26 PM
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Do blitz front axels work on this truck? Or does it need some modification for them to work?
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
There is no "correct". You run weight in different places, depending on your weight goals. I run 0 weight in my SCR, with a shorty. (well.. I run a 10 gram next to my receiver for balance). But that's it. Super high traction, lighter tends to be better. Medium or low traction, you might want a heavier truck for more grip. 100% depends on the rest of your setup, and the nature of your track and surface.
I'm thinking of running a shorty pack in my SCR, cpt, are you running it, front, middle, or back? just curious
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:32 PM
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I am going to rebuild my gear diff in my rtr. What oil wt should I use? Also is it like 8th scale buggy diff's where u fill the oil just the gears?
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by steam View Post
I'm thinking of running a shorty pack in my SCR, cpt, are you running it, front, middle, or back? just curious
Just slightly forward of middle.
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
I am going to rebuild my gear diff in my rtr. What oil wt should I use? Also is it like 8th scale buggy diff's where u fill the oil just the gears?
More traction heavier oil less lighter or just buy the ball diff .
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:48 PM
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I prefer to run just some black grease in the gear diff
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:20 AM
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Has anyone had experience with the MIP cva's? Do I still need to keep spare axles?
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by cnelson3 View Post
Has anyone had experience with the MIP cva's? Do I still need to keep spare axles?
I have been running the new MIP cvd's for about 3 weeks now and the axles seem to hold up well but I am not a fan of how their hex fits on the keyed axle AT ALL. The hex is almost impossible to get on the axle straight and the little set screw they use (.05) drives me nuts. They use that same size set screw in the CVD also.

The 2 problems I have found with the wheel hex are as follows:

1. The aluminum is WAY too soft. Give it 3-4 good race days and you will see where the hex starts to round out on the inside causing slop.

2. When you go to tighten the set screw on the hex the whole hex wants to tweak the way you are tightening it on the axle (cause of the slop). At first you dont really notice it but once you put your wheel on and give it a little throttle you will see how much the wheel wobbles.

The only work around I have come up with was before tightening the hex set screw, put an old bearing over axle and then install your wheel nut (without the wheel), tighten wheel nut so that it pushes the bearing into the hex and then tighten down the set screw. The bearing helps align the hex on the axle but even doing it this way was not perfect.

I like the keyed axle idea but the hexes need some refinement.

I'm going to go back to my stock Kyosho swing shafts and FLM axles. Never had issues with that combo.

Just my $.02
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