eper

iTrader: (14)

Hoese37 i was talking more about my shocktool when i posted the comment you where refering to. i absolutely know that there are other turnbuckle wrenches out there. the shock tool was what i was crying about and about a month ago i asked all of you guys if you where interested in a shock tool with the turnbuckle wrench built in and then another manufacturer decided to make it. It is what it is i will just patent my ideas before i list them which only hurts the people who use my tools because know i need to wait for patents
also for you guys discussing the servo saver strc makes a aluminum 1 that is much tighter then plastic

Jonathan Paulk

iTrader: (36)

+1 on the STRC aluminum steering rack/servo saver. I put one on my RT5 and it fix nearly all the steering wobble; on full lock the inside tire would wobble bad! But, for some reason the hard servo saver fixed it on my SC.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

I've been running these trucks for some time. Steering should not be an issue. I may be late on this but there are a couple of things that I would check such as the offset of the wheels that you are using and tires. Tire selection, just compound, can make a huge difference in how your truck steers. A couple of summers ago I was running wheels with Slash front offset, by accident, and my truck was so stable....but it didn't turn well. I took the damn truck apart a bunch of times before I noticed it. Before that I was turning with the brake like you.

If everything checks out and the truck is still not turning try a +3 rim like a lot of guys use on their 4 wheelers. That will narrow your truck some. You shouldn't have to glue the servo saver.

What position are you running your battery? I run mine close to all the way forward. Last, do you run any weight in your truck? I tuck 1/2 oz in the nose of my truck....that's it, however, I've seen guys run several ozs and as much as entire oz up front. It seems like you have a lot of options still. I didn't see anything about your track surface either. The SC-R is very sensitive to rear camber link adustment. Try lengthening the rear links to allow the truck to rotate more....

dirtman71

iTrader: (4)

thanks for the interest.
This is the setup I was told that was used
http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/assets/...o-nats2012.pdf
The springs are different and maybe the oil I dont have big bores and the springs are the black kyosho with no marks so I am not 100% sure what they are 65,70 or 75

I run mostly on a sandy bluegroove that has gotten rough from the winter rains but have been spending a lot of time at the indoor clay track that I am going tonight. I have an crap load of tires for it. I think they are all Slash rears. not much of an off set but some. have one pair of enduros that are like an SC10 with almost no off set. I have everything from barcodes to rebars to enduros to gridirons to cityblocks to caliibers and a few different compounds

I was running barcodes all the way around on the clay. was going to put some supersoft enduros up front..should I run the narrow wheels I have?
There is no weight on the car now there was some up front before I had it and had some in the rear about 3/4oz when I got it
I put 1-2 degrees of toe out and was going to try that first tonight, then start adding weight to the front and see what happends. Maybe I will lenghten the rear links first too.
Thanks for all the help. never had to mess to much with the steering before. all my other trucks never had any issues like this. I know its all in the set up and maybe its just a weight thing or too much steering

Jonathan Paulk

iTrader: (36)

Get the SC10 4x4 3mm offset JConcepts Hazards. The make the truck way more stable. I used to run Slash rears on front and rear. The 3mm offsets are way better.

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

Help me understrand gearing. I just purchased a team orion r10 and 17.5 T Motor. Will be running with zero timing. If I want to slow the truck down for my son which gear should I change and also what size. Also If I slow the truck down will it hurt the motor or ESC? THanks for the help.

Honu

iTrader: (22)

You can go with a bigger spur or smaller pinion. That will bring down the road speed. Or just slip the slipper a little, this will make it more controllable when he punches it.

JayL

slow the truck down with Radio EPA, don't change gearing or slipper as you would just have to change these back once he gets used to it and wants full speed. Plus he could overheat the motor or slipper if you do it that way

Posvar

iTrader: (470)

What are any of you guys running for a mod 10.5? 82 spur and 23 or 24 pinion?

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

I have read that by changing the EPA it will hurt the motor?

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

That sounds pretty close. 82? Is that an AE spur? I think I was running 78/21 with my 8.5 last series with 0 timing of any kind but that might have been a little aggressive. When its freezong out you can push gearing a little more than usual.

JayL

No.

I have SEEN motors get hurt by gearing....

I have SEEN slippers get fried by loosening them.....

I have never seen or had a motor go bad by EPA limit. I do it all the time as I often have too fast a motor for the track and can't stop myself from going to full throttle

If you are worried put a 25.5 in it

Posvar

iTrader: (470)

My bad. I have a 76 in it currently.

Posvar

iTrader: (470)

Btw, Kyosho makes an 82.

wfoster34

iTrader: (31)

@Posvar if your running a 10.5... the sweat spot gearing wise is 21/82.if will fly and not blow the tires off which will give you both the speed and control your looking for, it also settles the truck on those low traction tracks.. 76&78 spurs are for 17.5 stock setups...