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Old 10-31-2012, 01:12 PM
  #4111  
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Originally Posted by lbckevin
The idler is a little weak. Make sure to not land off of jumps with alot of power, it will tear up the idler gear. Try to land without full throttle.
yeah kevin i know what u mean ..im not gettin overly throttley but on certain bigger tripples (like at wc current layout) it has always seemed to get the car to fly right i have to be completley off throttle of the lip to avoid the kite factor and them i sometimes have to use the throttle in air some to keep the front end from falling too low accationaly i do have to stay in the throttle( u know a good ol panic throttle ) probably a bad habit from motocross..i find my self doin it when i know im goin to come short on a jump to hoping the forward drive will take away from the rear end goin where ever it wants to on the hop/ case..wow that prob makes no scense lol
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:55 PM
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you already explained your own problem. your way over tightening the slipper assembly. if you have it almost locked down thats your problem. dont expect a sc to do a wheelie like a buggy whaen u adjust your diff. its heavier and longer which make that way of adjusting your slipper not the best for sc.
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Old 10-31-2012, 06:23 PM
  #4113  
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Originally Posted by rb-digi
nice ill def be getting a set of these...im having some trouble with blowing idler gears on my mod sc set up,,,i have used both the black and the white colored plastic ones and have had simillar results with both..i am doin the regular slipper adjustment that i usually do wich does slip when i test in on the table or on the floor but for some reason my idlers havent been lasting more than a few days of driving..only thing i can think to do is run the slipper looser and i feel like it will be slipping to much that way,,anyone else ran into this problem,.? or have an idea of what i may be doin wrong..thnks in advance
always change the diff gear and idler at the same time. The top shaft lasts a long time but it may be worn too and would need to replaced with the others. Also make sure you put a little diff lube on the teeth of the diff gear.

Adjusting your slipper on the table is perfectly fine. But it does sound like you are setting it too tight. Back it off 1/8 turn and drive it.
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Old 10-31-2012, 06:26 PM
  #4114  
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Originally Posted by eper
dont expect a sc to do a wheelie like a buggy whaen u adjust your diff. its heavier and longer which make that way of adjusting your slipper not the best for sc.
good info there. ^

Its always good to learn to adjust it by front end pull AND sound.
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Old 10-31-2012, 07:08 PM
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What would be a good ballpark 17.5 Blinky gearing setup, indoor clay medium size
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:58 PM
  #4116  
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Originally Posted by rb-digi
the screw is def tight..i get to check it everytime i replace the idler its a new kit i built about 5 weeks ago,,im on my 4th ilder right now oh and i blew that monday night so i got to replace it,,i hit the track about 3 times a week,,i may very well have something wrong with the slipper assembly..i will double check the manual on that ..it has always seemed like the slipper bolt and spring almost have to be compressed all the way to get the slipper to hook up and to get to the "sweet spot" of the slipper adjustment i had to be cranked down pretty hard..this is my first k car so i may have bungled something apon assembly.
It is very very easy for the pads to come out of their notches on the spur when assembling the clutch section. I did that once. Don't take this the wrong way, but did you put the 2 bearings in the idler gear and 2 more for the top shaft? Again double check to see if you have that collar spacer that goes into the shaft from the outside of the clutch into the cases wall. If you don't have it that will allow the top shaft to move.
Once the cases are sealed there is another bearing that goes inside the center diff spacer that slides to the top shaft followed by that gold collar I keep asking about.

Weird that I have no issues even though I run the diff locked, locked slipper, full punch control off and a 7.5 motor. Again I even tried the castle 1410 3800kv that powered my old losi scte at 7lbs rtr and it was a wheelie beast but I never stripped a gear.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:13 AM
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maybe hes running somewhere with tons of traction. also the only time ive spun one of the idlers is landing while in a panic rev. it really puts a strain on the plastic. another part of this is what kind of forward bite he has built into the truck, he may be running a set up with lots of traction compared to you
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:13 AM
  #4118  
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Originally Posted by Pimpin
always change the diff gear and idler at the same time. The top shaft lasts a long time but it may be worn too and would need to replaced with the others. Also make sure you put a little diff lube on the teeth of the diff gear.

Adjusting your slipper on the table is perfectly fine. But it does sound like you are setting it too tight. Back it off 1/8 turn and drive it.
thnks matt..after the second one i blew i replaced the diff gear...the last two times i just took along time to clean out the teeth as good as i could on the top shaft and the diff gear before replacing..after messing with it at the track last night attempting to put in another idler as i am assembling the trans theres something wrong..if i spin it smooth it feels ok but if i really spin it hard with torque in my hand there starts to be a weird sort of bind like the teeth arent meshing,.hoping to find a topshaft locally and give that a shot..i sware i havent been running the slipper over board tight.(maybe the first two idlers but after that i was very aware)..i really based the slipper adjustment on how much it would pull or thrust on the table without it sliping,..i wasnt doin wheelies on the table or on the track i was actually adjusting it from too loose and working my way forward as i was tired of smoking idlers.but if i cant get drive to clear a jump on the track and the slipper is squealing for 1/4 of the straight away i have to tighten it.if the top shaft is jacked that would explain the the short life on the idler ..im hoping i damaged the top shaft by chewing up so many idlers wich lead to chewing up more idlers.
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:28 AM
  #4119  
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Originally Posted by eper
maybe hes running somewhere with tons of traction. also the only time ive spun one of the idlers is landing while in a panic rev. it really puts a strain on the plastic. another part of this is what kind of forward bite he has built into the truck, he may be running a set up with lots of traction compared to you
panic throttle'n is most likley what started my problems,,the layouts i started driving on with this car both had big tripples that are challenging for sprtsman level mod sc guys..i will work to get the truck to be a lil less nose heavy but i really do have pretty "decent" control in the air with the set up i have ..but when i do make a mistake on a big tripple as im watching my k-car endo for some reason i cant fight the wiskey throttle lol..
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Old 11-01-2012, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by rcman182006
What would be a good ballpark 17.5 Blinky gearing setup, indoor clay medium size
It all depends on the Motor you are using. We run a 75/27 now but that's becasue it is what works the best for us using Reedy Sonics with the right mechanical timing... However each track and motor can sway these numbers up or down...
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Old 11-01-2012, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by lewis4x4
It all depends on the Motor you are using. We run a 75/27 now but that's becasue it is what works the best for us using Reedy Sonics with the right mechanical timing... However each track and motor can sway these numbers up or down...
holycrap you'r geared tall! Im geared at 78/23, with maxed endbell timing on a D3.5.
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Old 11-01-2012, 12:24 PM
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for 17.5 I gear it at 26/82
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
holycrap you'r geared tall! Im geared at 78/23, with maxed endbell timing on a D3.5.
Well, for the Reedy there is a sweet spot and its not all the way up. So, you hit the sweet spot in the timing and them gear up. Works for us.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:19 PM
  #4124  
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Originally Posted by rb-digi
panic throttle'n is most likley what started my problems,,the layouts i started driving on with this car both had big tripples that are challenging for sprtsman level mod sc guys..i will work to get the truck to be a lil less nose heavy but i really do have pretty "decent" control in the air with the set up i have ..but when i do make a mistake on a big tripple as im watching my k-car endo for some reason i cant fight the wiskey throttle lol..
the kyosho sc tends to drop the nose easier then other sc trucks for some reason. i really worked hard to set up my truck so it would not jump that way. a big part of fixing that was the 6 hole pistons. my sc is plan old fun to air out
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Ultima SC-R Thread-sc-airing-out.jpg  
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Old 11-02-2012, 09:13 AM
  #4125  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
holycrap you'r geared tall! Im geared at 78/23, with maxed endbell timing on a D3.5.
and you are probably on a super small track.

i ran mine 26 or 27 with an 82. 38° endbell timing on schuur speed.
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