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Old 10-24-2012, 12:49 PM
  #4096  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Built it.
http://youtu.be/7QT7bhJTkAs
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Old 10-25-2012, 05:44 AM
  #4097  
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Has anyone tried the sc10 4x4 shocks on the scr? Is it even possible? How do they compare to the kyosho big bores for performance if they do work? thx
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Old 10-25-2012, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by headbasher
I never thought of that till you mentioned it before. I noticed that the Tebo set up shows a 18/82 gearing. I will probably try a 20/84 till I can get to the LHS and get a smaller spur.

Thanks
headbasher, how did you gearing change go, did it fix your problem?
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Old 10-25-2012, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Kraig
I am wondering if the Associated kit would work with some minor modification.
Talked to AE team driver last night about the AE kit (because he just spent hours and hours building his custom sways for his SC10) and he says that the kit for $10 is garbage... better to build.

Last edited by Cpt.America; 10-25-2012 at 12:35 PM.
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Old 10-25-2012, 07:54 AM
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I love it: An AE team driver saying that AE stuff is junk... Go Team Kyosho!!!
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by J-RO
Has anyone tried the sc10 4x4 shocks on the scr? Is it even possible? How do they compare to the kyosho big bores for performance if they do work? thx
I didn't try them on the scr but I did on the scte. Pure junk!!!! Always leaked and needed rebuild every 2 weeks. I just rebuild my scr that I bought new 8 months ago and the shocks were full, slight black tint and never leaked a drop. Even some people locally are putting them on the losi scbs
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:08 PM
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Quick q, when following tebo a set up it calls for -1 camber and toe. The manual says to keep the front buckles at 31mm and the rear at 38mm. They are positive camber as if now but do I really have to keep them at 31/38? Or whatever they end up after they are set at the -1 camber?
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez
Quick q, when following tebo a set up it calls for -1 camber and toe. The manual says to keep the front buckles at 31mm and the rear at 38mm. They are positive camber as if now but do I really have to keep them at 31/38? Or whatever they end up after they are set at the -1 camber?
The manual just provides an initial setup. They are meant to be adjusted to whatever setup you are attempting to achieve.
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:03 PM
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I know that alot of people talk about rear axles and them bending and/or breaking on them. Well since running the MIP cvd's i havent had a single issue and times when i would have thought it would be bent after landing on it wrong but nope, they are still straight! Highly recommended!!

http://miponline.com/store/mip12153.html
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:49 AM
  #4105  
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Originally Posted by Pimpin
I know that alot of people talk about rear axles and them bending and/or breaking on them. Well since running the MIP cvd's i havent had a single issue and times when i would have thought it would be bent after landing on it wrong but nope, they are still straight! Highly recommended!!

http://miponline.com/store/mip12153.html
nice ill def be getting a set of these...im having some trouble with blowing idler gears on my mod sc set up,,,i have used both the black and the white colored plastic ones and have had simillar results with both..i am doin the regular slipper adjustment that i usually do wich does slip when i test in on the table or on the floor but for some reason my idlers havent been lasting more than a few days of driving..only thing i can think to do is run the slipper looser and i feel like it will be slipping to much that way,,anyone else ran into this problem,.? or have an idea of what i may be doin wrong..thnks in advance
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:01 AM
  #4106  
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The idler is a little weak. Make sure to not land off of jumps with alot of power, it will tear up the idler gear. Try to land without full throttle.
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:07 AM
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That's crazy the idlers not lasting. Is your bottom screw tight that holds the transmission cases? (Its just one screw thats hiding way in the rear bottomof the case) Are your bearings good inside the transmission? When you mess with the clutch do you know for a fact that the gold looking spacer/collar that slides into the top shaft and transmission cases is there? I have not have any issues with my black one since new 8 months ago and I'm running a x-12 7.5 with full punch control, locked diff and a pretty tight slipper. I do wheelies at time when landing off of a jump and wot it
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:55 AM
  #4108  
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how old is your scr? check and make sure the top shaft hasn't shark toothed and maybe thats what is tearing up the idlers.
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Old 10-31-2012, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rb-digi
nice ill def be getting a set of these...im having some trouble with blowing idler gears on my mod sc set up,,,i have used both the black and the white colored plastic ones and have had simillar results with both..i am doin the regular slipper adjustment that i usually do wich does slip when i test in on the table or on the floor but for some reason my idlers havent been lasting more than a few days of driving..only thing i can think to do is run the slipper looser and i feel like it will be slipping to much that way,,anyone else ran into this problem,.? or have an idea of what i may be doin wrong..thnks in advance
How much traction do you think holding the tires on the table has compared to what is actually on the track?
Adjust on the track (not holding tires) and I bet your problem goes away.
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Old 10-31-2012, 12:40 PM
  #4110  
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez
That's crazy the idlers not lasting. Is your bottom screw tight that holds the transmission cases? (Its just one screw thats hiding way in the rear bottomof the case) Are your bearings good inside the transmission? When you mess with the clutch do you know for a fact that the gold looking spacer/collar that slides into the top shaft and transmission cases is there? I have not have any issues with my black one since new 8 months ago and I'm running a x-12 7.5 with full punch control, locked diff and a pretty tight slipper. I do wheelies at time when landing off of a jump and wot it
the screw is def tight..i get to check it everytime i replace the idler its a new kit i built about 5 weeks ago,,im on my 4th ilder right now oh and i blew that monday night so i got to replace it,,i hit the track about 3 times a week,,i may very well have something wrong with the slipper assembly..i will double check the manual on that ..it has always seemed like the slipper bolt and spring almost have to be compressed all the way to get the slipper to hook up and to get to the "sweet spot" of the slipper adjustment i had to be cranked down pretty hard..this is my first k car so i may have bungled something apon assembly.
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