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Kyosho Ultima SC-R Thread

Kyosho Ultima SC-R Thread

Old 08-23-2012, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by huh View Post
How's it going guys?



The LHS suggested I use a 25t pinion gear which I tried to put with the stock main gear and it would not fit as it was super tight. I bought a 69t main gear and that was too small. I had a brilliant idea to try the stock 78 gear that came with my RB5 SP2 WC buggy since I switched that out to a different gear. SCORE! Matched up nicely and allowed me to drive around for the first time. My question, would this be an okay combo to run 78/25 on a 17.5 motor for my truck?


Jon
I had a 29t on mine, with the 78 spur and it was about 140 after six hard minutes on carpet tracks. with 17.5 of course
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:37 PM
  #3962  
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Well, I went to Nor-Cal Hobbies to try things out tonight.

I built my truck according to the manual, not any particular setup and it just required a little bit of adjustments and I thought I did pretty good considering how long I've been away from RC.

I didn't have the slipper clutch tight enough and that was soon remedied along with some adjustment of the steering servo (was turning too much) and a little bit of adjustment on the shocks and I think my truck will be pretty good.

I know it probably isn't very fast, but when I get the handling part down and become more consistent, then I can worry about adding some more speed.

After building this, I know I will feel more confident about building my RB5 WC buggy.

Thanks for your help 8-)

Jon
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Old 08-24-2012, 07:17 AM
  #3963  
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Originally Posted by huh View Post

The LHS suggested I use a 25t pinion gear which I tried to put with the stock main gear and it would not fit as it was super tight. I bought a 69t main gear and that was too small. I had a brilliant idea to try the stock 78 gear that came with my RB5 SP2 WC buggy since I switched that out to a different gear. SCORE! Matched up nicely and allowed me to drive around for the first time. My question, would this be an okay combo to run 78/25 on a 17.5 motor for my truck?

Jon
I just spent last last weekend playing with 17.5 gearing in my SCR on a fairly good sized indoor dirt track. I am using a Novak 17.5 and I had timing at 40 degrees (on motor) and gearing was 25/76. I was coming off the track around 161 degrees after 10 minutes. I tried 24/76 and then came off in the 140's but I noticed in the straight I had lost speed and did not gain much in the inside. I decided to go back to 25/76 and I turned down the timing on the can to 35 degrees. This should put me just under 160 degrees. This is running 'blinky' on the ESC.

Dean
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Old 08-24-2012, 08:25 AM
  #3964  
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Originally Posted by DeanV View Post
I just spent last last weekend playing with 17.5 gearing in my SCR on a fairly good sized indoor dirt track. I am using a Novak 17.5 and I had timing at 40 degrees (on motor) and gearing was 25/76. I was coming off the track around 161 degrees after 10 minutes. I tried 24/76 and then came off in the 140's but I noticed in the straight I had lost speed and did not gain much in the inside. I decided to go back to 25/76 and I turned down the timing on the can to 35

Dean
If I recall correctly, do Novak motors come set at 30* from the factory? Just want to clarify in case somebody new with brand Y motor doesn't crank theirs up to 35. Every motor has different timing marks and settings.
.
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Old 08-24-2012, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Yeti AS3 View Post
If I recall correctly, do Novak motors come set at 30* from the factory? Just want to clarify in case somebody new with brand Y motor doesn't crank theirs up to 35. Every motor has different timing marks and settings.
.
Yes you are correct, they have them set at 30 degrees, but the motor actually can be set between 15-45. I was told recently from Novak that 35-45 is preferred for the 17.5

Dean
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Old 08-24-2012, 10:07 AM
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I am about to completley redu my scr-sp, I haven't drove it in about 3 months and went ahead and ordered springs and -1 hubs, put them on and redid the shock oil and when I went to drive it the thing felt horrible. It wasn't planted at all didn't feel connected to the track and it made me want to throw it in the garbage to be honest. Now I have been driving the crap out of my 2 and 4 whell buggy alot so maybe thats why but it shouldn't feel that diffrent. So I'm going to start from scratch again. Unless someone has some tips on what it could be.
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Old 08-24-2012, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by kevink123 View Post
I am about to completley redu my scr-sp, I haven't drove it in about 3 months and went ahead and ordered springs and -1 hubs, put them on and redid the shock oil and when I went to drive it the thing felt horrible. It wasn't planted at all didn't feel connected to the track and it made me want to throw it in the garbage to be honest. Now I have been driving the crap out of my 2 and 4 whell buggy alot so maybe thats why but it shouldn't feel that diffrent. So I'm going to start from scratch again. Unless someone has some tips on what it could be.
Being that I only have a few hours of driving time on my truck, I don't think you can go wrong with the setup suggested by the manual to start with. I know I like my setup. The only thing I changed was Yellow/Red springs 40/35 Losi Oil, gun metal battery posts, titanium superduty turnbuckles, and the carbon fiber battery strap. Also running AKA Grid Line tires.

Jon
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Old 08-26-2012, 12:03 PM
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Does anybody have a dirt oval set up???
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Old 08-27-2012, 02:42 PM
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Default Diggity Designs Carbon Fibre Parts

Just a reminder that Diggity Designs offers some nice carbon fibre upgrade parts for the SC-R.









Check them out here:

http://www.diggitydesigns.com/D3_Off...yosho_RT5.html
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Old 08-27-2012, 04:29 PM
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Anybody else having problems with breaking rear arms? I have broken 4 of them in the last few months, at the inner hinge pin. Its not that bad since when they break they stay on the car so I don't get DNF, but it gets annoying having to change them out allot. Anybody know if there are any upgraded arms or anything?
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Old 08-27-2012, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by RC demon View Post
Anybody else having problems with breaking rear arms? I have broken 4 of them in the last few months, at the inner hinge pin. Its not that bad since when they break they stay on the car so I don't get DNF, but it gets annoying having to change them out allot. Anybody know if there are any upgraded arms or anything?
Never had a problem with them under normal racing conditions. K cars have some of, it not the strongest, arms of any car out there. What are you whacking to crack them?
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Old 08-27-2012, 07:11 PM
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Nothing! That's why its so weird. The only place I crash sometimes is on a big single, which is really hard to clear with a 2wd and not flip onto your roof, since its big and going straight into the wind. So I guess they are breaking when I land it on its bumper but off to the side, so that one of the rear tires takes the impact first...Hard to tell since I don't actually notice when I break one since it stays on.
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Old 08-28-2012, 02:35 AM
  #3973  
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Originally Posted by kevink123 View Post
I am about to completley redu my scr-sp, I haven't drove it in about 3 months and went ahead and ordered springs and -1 hubs, put them on and redid the shock oil and when I went to drive it the thing felt horrible. It wasn't planted at all didn't feel connected to the track and it made me want to throw it in the garbage to be honest. Now I have been driving the crap out of my 2 and 4 whell buggy alot so maybe thats why but it shouldn't feel that diffrent. So I'm going to start from scratch again. Unless someone has some tips on what it could be.
Well you say you use -1 hubs. Check you didn't mount them backwards (left on right etc) by mistake.
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Old 08-29-2012, 07:46 AM
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is it the same shock rebuild kit for the velvet shocks as it is the plastic stock kits? or are they different?
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Old 08-29-2012, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by J-RO View Post
is it the same shock rebuild kit for the velvet shocks as it is the plastic stock kits? or are they different?
Are you talking about the plastic shocks that come on the rtr? If so, while the o-rings are similar how it is held together is completely different. The plastic shocks have what appears to be a star washer holding the o-rings in place.
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