hobbyten

iTrader: (38)

Just as a side note Avid is making springs for these shocks as well. I just wanted to use what I have without having to buy more springs.

Kbmoss

iTrader: (14)

I recently bought a SC-R, it is coming with a ton of upgrades and spare parts. I was wondering if there is any parts that can be swapped in from other kits. I know Kyosho parts are hard to find in the local shops. I have found online stores that sell parts, but waiting a week to get them in the mail isnt fun when you want to race. When I had a Blitz, I know that the diffs and shocks were interchange able with the sc10. Having a list of parts that can be swapped in a pinch is nice to have, and some of the other kits may have the same part at a lower price.

I was wondering if there was any parts that come from other kits that are a fit to the SC-R. I have found that some are using the SC10 spur setup, and the Blitz/Slash wheels fit.

asc6000

iTrader: (15)

the only thing commonly swapped from other brands is asc spurs and slippers, some wheels, and generic stuff of course. Some of the parts from the RB5 fit and a few from the ZX5 and RT5. Like most cars you find you need to have on hand stuff you break, doesn't matter the brand, and relying on having parts on the LHS is a ridiculous idea. For parts a couple good kyosho specialists are speedtech and infernosonly , lots of sellers carry some K parts like Amain and Stormer, either one is typically for me 2-3 days away.

kyosho117

REALLY need some help guys!!! I strip out the black sp idler gear on my truck at least once or twice a week.. I am running the 3800kv 4 pole i know it has crazy torque but i see guys running it in 2wd buggies trucks all the time, I don't really know what i am doing wrong...

mrsinister

iTrader: (24)

I just picked up an scr-sp just wondering also what u guys stock up on as in spares and what other upgrades do u guys recommend

Mr.juarez

iTrader: (37)

This is what I think is a must have spares.

Front and rear arms, broke a rear trying to clear a big triple with headwind.

Spurs

Front knuckles and c hubs. Get the strc as I broke a front c hub in half.

Some rod ends and the rear inner hinges with the steal bushings as if you snap an arm most likely the hinge will come out and you loose the bushings inserts.

big chris

iTrader: (51)

13-14 race nights and the only broken part was front bumper. Pretty happy with that. But I did put aluminum rear arm mounts on right from the start. I have seen a few Kyosho SC's with those breaking. I also put aluminum rear hubs on from the start. I think those are the weak spots.

Solid platform. The SCR-SP has let me be so consistent.

I did commit a sin to the SCR though. I am using 22T rear turnbuckles and ballcups as the stock stuff is poo. I have had zero issues with this setup on my RT5 and the SCR. Just the rear though, front is great.

JayL

assuming everything is built correct and the tranny bearings are all good, I would guess your slipper is too tight.

And really you see guys running 2wd with 4 pole motors all the time? are they bashers or racers? I have never seen a 4 pole motor on a 2wd race vehicle

Maxxican

iTrader: (67)

WOW that's allot of motor for a 2WD. Not sure what it equates to in Turns but a 4 pole is very torqy. i would not go over a 6.5T on any off road truck there's no need for it. I run a 8.5 at my local track its plenty fast and punchy. In over 3 months since i built the truck i have not stripped a idler gear or spur.

as suggested above try loosening your slipper a bit also try adjusting the "punch" on your ESC if you have that setting i would set it to the mildest setting.

Yeti AS3

iTrader: (77)

You also have to realize that you have the same tranny as a buggy, but a buggy its a lot lighter.

cnelson3

iTrader: (66)

really... i think you know your problem.

ChrisAttebery

iTrader: (121)

Right, like 5 lbs vs. 3.5 and you're running a motor that has ~2-3x more torque than that tranny was designed for.

I stripped my first idler last weekend with a 10.5. It managed to take out the diff gear at the same time. I had to tear apart the tranny 2-3 times before I got it all working again.

hobbyten

iTrader: (38)

If someone would please measure the length of a stock big bore spring for a sc i would greatly appreciate it.

big chris

iTrader: (51)

Like all the guys said way too much. BUT, if you are set on using it, when you replace the idler gear you will also need to replace the shaft and the diff gear. They will wear unevenly when the idler blows up and then they will instantly bust into the new gear.

I know this because I blew up a clear idler gear last year and before it went out it wore my shaft (the metal one) very oddly and it then in turn shredded the new idler shortly after before I saw how messed up it got. I never thought to check it because I thought Metal Vs. Plastic had only one loser but both were messed up. Sorry for the long explanation.

Mr.juarez

iTrader: (37)

I have a friend that also uses the 3800 1410 with no issues. He's geared to Jupiter though to take away from some of the low end. I also have another friend that has a none ballistic slowvak 8.5 and destroyed his idler in a pack after we put a ball diff in it. I don't think the diff was tight at all, but who knows where the slipper might of been.

Ps... I'm running a x-12 7.5 with the diff on the tight side and the slipper as well just so I can clear a triple and so far do good after about 30 packs ran.