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Kyosho Ultima SC-R Thread

Kyosho Ultima SC-R Thread

Old 05-02-2012, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Slotmachine View Post
I love the way this truck handles but I really hate the Diff. It loosens up half way through a run even with red lock tight. I also tried different manufacturers lock nuts! Is there another ball diff that fits into this truck?
I don't know of any aftermarket diffs. I also have never had that problem. I use the Tamiya TF201 diff nuts with a little blue locktite.
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Old 05-02-2012, 02:38 PM
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I've been using the standard Kyosho diff hardware with no issues of the diff loosening. i don't use loctite of any kind.
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Old 05-02-2012, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Jonathan Paulk View Post
Yes, it made the shock very short. Tebo runs this with hardly any droop?
Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery View Post
Did you read the note RIGHT BELOW the shock length???

He states that the length is from the bottom of the shock body to the top of the shock end.

Reading FAIL!
Read fail for you, too. I posted yes to the measuring of the bottom of shock body to the sock end. Why don't you read before you post something! Or, are you just trolling to make fun of people???
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Old 05-02-2012, 04:23 PM
  #3634  
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Originally Posted by Jonathan Paulk View Post
Looking at Tebo's setup from the '11 Reedy Race, it states the rear shock length is 33.2mm. I tired this and I had to add nearly 16mm of internal spacers. The arm wasn't even level, it was almost pointing up.....Am I doing this right?
You have to be measuring incorrectly - 16mm of internal spacers does not compute. My rear shocks, without any limiters, measures approximately 35mm of exposed shaft. So that is only 1.8mm longer than your desired length.

And it is not clear that he is setting the length via limiters. He may be adjusting length via how deeply the shock ends are screwed onto the shaft.
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Old 05-02-2012, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Jonathan Paulk View Post
Read fail for you, too. I posted yes to the measuring of the bottom of shock body to the sock end. Why don't you read before you post something! Or, are you just trolling to make fun of people???
My guess is you are measuring incorrectly. His setup sheets call for 0 limiters in front and 2.5 rear..or 2.5 turns out (different description between setup sheets).
From the bottom of the shock body to the top of the rod end should be 1.110" front and 1.307" rear by that setup. If you added 16 .03 washers then you would only have .630" travel...or 5/8"...that's probably less than a buggy.
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Old 05-02-2012, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by parallelfish View Post
You have to be measuring incorrectly - 16mm of internal spacers does not compute. My rear shocks, without any limiters, measures approximately 35mm of exposed shaft. So that is only 1.8mm longer than your desired length.

And it is not clear that he is setting the length via limiters. He may be adjusting length via how deeply the shock ends are screwed onto the shaft.
You beat me to it I was typing.
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Old 05-02-2012, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Yeti AS3 View Post
You beat me to it I was typing.
Great minds...!
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Old 05-02-2012, 05:06 PM
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I figured it out. I was measuring the from the bottom of the shock to opposite end of the shock mount that points to the ground when mounted, not the end that faces the bottom of the shock.
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Old 05-02-2012, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxxican View Post
I've been using the standard Kyosho diff hardware with no issues of the diff loosening. i don't use loctite of any kind.
+1, Kyosho diffs are the best I have ever had the pleasure of using, never had one get loose on me! Do you have it in backwards? That would cause that to happen or your thrust bearings are shot possibly?
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:02 PM
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Sitting here and looking to thinker with the scr for a bit. What's the benefit of lowering the front hubs and either spacing them front to back? What's good or bad.
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:10 PM
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selling mine if anyone wants one. Class died here because of stadium truck
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post10684446
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by bring it on View Post
selling mine if anyone wants one. Class died here because of stadium truck
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post10684446
Been looking t yours Rick, if my tc6 onroad sells soon il noodling at getting your and make it to a ultima db and run buggy. Are they big bores?
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez View Post
Been looking t yours Rick, if my tc6 onroad sells soon il noodling at getting your and make it to a ultima db and run buggy. Are they big bores?
Not big bores. I just learned about the big bores only 2 months ago. LOL I'm buying a B4.1 when this sells
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by bring it on View Post
Not big bores. I just learned about the big bores only 2 months ago. LOL I'm buying a B4.1 when this sells
Ahhh I cant get used to looking at those or the losi 22. Trying to get rid of all my losi crap and switch to Kyosho after seeing their quality in plastic and metal. Good luck with the sale!
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Old 05-02-2012, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Slotmachine View Post
I love the way this truck handles but I really hate the Diff. It loosens up half way through a run even with red lock tight. I also tried different manufacturers lock nuts! Is there another ball diff that fits into this truck?
I think your thrust bearings are bad or have dirt in there causing a binding that is backing the diff off. I have 3 2wd K cars that I run every week with zero issues of that nature. All with stock bolt/nut/holder. Check your bearings in the tranny also, a seized one of those could do that too.
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