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Old 12-03-2011, 07:29 AM
  #2461  
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Originally Posted by Chuck 21
That is a loaded question IMO because it depends alot on:

What size track?

How tight the track is?

How close all the jumps are to corners?

How big the jumps are?

How much grip the track has?

What tires you use?

What your driving style is??

How much motor timing your running??

How much weight you've added to your truck.

In my SC-R I run 82/25 to 29 depending on everything above. But that is
for my driving style and tracks I race at. Other guys I race with are geared
76/26 to 32 go figure" with the same truck.
I run the 26/78 on a small track with no boost and very little timing, the truck is fast in the straight and comes of very cool so that might be a good starting point
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Old 12-03-2011, 11:34 AM
  #2462  
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FYI Y'all theres a really nice SC/R for sale in the for sale section!
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Old 12-03-2011, 11:44 AM
  #2463  
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hey fellas, got my sc-r put together and an appropriate lid painted

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Old 12-03-2011, 11:59 AM
  #2464  
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^^^^^^^ SWEET BODY!!!!!!!
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Old 12-03-2011, 03:08 PM
  #2465  
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Does anyone know of a softer rear big bore spring then the RED/Med/Hard
part# GS031?????

I can find stiffer, but not softer rear big bore SC springs. Theres lots of
shorter buggy springs softer,but not the longer SC springs that I can find...

Thanks for any help guys...
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Old 12-03-2011, 03:40 PM
  #2466  
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I thought there were only 3 colors for the SC big bores. Red, yellow and orange (softer to stiffer).
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Old 12-03-2011, 06:12 PM
  #2467  
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Originally Posted by klaymon
I thought there were only 3 colors for the SC big bores. Red, yellow and orange (softer to stiffer).


Yes I understand the red,yellow,orange softer to stiffer. I'm looking for
softer then red in a long spring because my set up with stock shocks is
AE green rear because I run on slick tracks.

I need softer then red to get more rear bite..
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Old 12-03-2011, 06:42 PM
  #2468  
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Originally Posted by Chuck 21
Yes I understand the red,yellow,orange softer to stiffer. I'm looking for
softer then red in a long spring because my set up with stock shocks is
AE green rear because I run on slick tracks.

I need softer then red to get more rear bite..
It must be REALLY slick if your fighting rear grip on one of these trucks.
Have you tried more rear toe? Is your tire selection spot on?
I actually fight too much rear grip most of the time with mine, but I have the 1* rear hubs on it.
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Old 12-03-2011, 08:29 PM
  #2469  
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Originally Posted by thecman26
It must be REALLY slick if your fighting rear grip on one of these trucks.
Have you tried more rear toe? Is your tire selection spot on?
I actually fight too much rear grip most of the time with mine, but I have the 1* rear hubs on it.
I too run 1 degree hubs. tires are fine. I've been at this 30 years also
raced full size cars and motorcycles.

I have an injury to my throttle hand that does not allow me to have throttle
control any more. I have full throttle and no throttle so my set ups are way
different then everyone elses.

I must have a hooked up truck like it's on velcro to go fast any more. I
probably should quit, but I have way to much fun with all my buddies
and thats what this is all about...
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Old 12-03-2011, 08:41 PM
  #2470  
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Hey Guys, I need a few pointers recently started running at a much longer track, then am used to..... I run a Tekin RS w/ 10.5 Ballistic with 23/78 gearing and a B-Fast Diff ( awesome) I don't want give up my gearing. I was hoping to put some boost into but my temps came up to 150. Any one with any tips would really help.....
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Old 12-03-2011, 08:46 PM
  #2471  
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Originally Posted by Chuck 21
I too run 1 degree hubs. tires are fine. I've been at this 30 years also
raced full size cars and motorcycles.

I have an injury to my throttle hand that does not allow me to have throttle
control any more. I have full throttle and no throttle so my set ups are way
different then everyone elses.

I must have a hooked up truck like it's on velcro to go fast any more. I
probably should quit, but I have way to much fun with all my buddies
and thats what this is all about...
you can try using some of the current/torque limits in the esc, or if your controler has a 'servo speed' function you can adjust that...
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Old 12-03-2011, 08:55 PM
  #2472  
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Originally Posted by whitrzac
you can try using some of the current/torque limits in the esc, or if your controler has a 'servo speed' function you can adjust that...

I know all this, like I said I've been rc racing 30 years I know all the tricks.

What I need know is part numbers for big bore springs, if no one has any
I'll find another brand like I did for the standard shocks. If that fails I'll go
back to standard shocks.

I appreciate all the suggestions guys, but if you don't have my problem
you could never understand how hard it is to over come it. I really need
part numbers or part numbers of other brands of springs that are softer
then Kyosho red.

Thanks alot for trying guys...
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Old 12-03-2011, 08:58 PM
  #2473  
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Originally Posted by gottabaja
Hey Guys, I need a few pointers recently started running at a much longer track, then am used to..... I run a Tekin RS w/ 10.5 Ballistic with 23/78 gearing and a B-Fast Diff ( awesome) I don't want give up my gearing. I was hoping to put some boost into but my temps came up to 150. Any one with any tips would really help.....

Theres nothing wrong with 150 degree temps at the end of a main at all..

160+ is where to start worrying...
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:01 PM
  #2474  
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^ 160+ so drop a tooth or 2 in pinion? Im currently running 17.5 with some boost @ 26/75 and ive temped at 170..
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:04 PM
  #2475  
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I plan on getting some TLR springs for the 22T when they are released to try out. Thought about maybe trying out the 22 buggy springs.
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