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Old 08-13-2004, 04:25 PM   #76
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Is this on your Aggressor CRX? Sounds wierd..
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Old 08-14-2004, 01:08 AM   #77
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Default gearing (again)

i have to switch to a smaller spur gear (dont ask)

so now i have to run a 81 tooth, i was thinking of gearing that 16 turn at 17/81 it is a little easyer on the motor (these highs and lows are getting confusing!) so i guess it is a higher number lower gearing (14/87 is lower than 15/87) am i right?

4.764705882352941
is easyer on the motor and lower than 4.578947368421052


right?

i got all the problems fixxed but the scweak (rebuilt the whole darn truck!)

i am almost 100% it is the wheel bearings should i buy that $10 bottle of oil from the Hobby shop or can i use somthing a little cheaper?
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Old 08-24-2004, 11:47 AM   #78
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Hey all,

Getting into stock truck competitively now and trying to find the gearing to work with a monster stock on a large track (about a 85' straightaway into a long sweeper -- the track was once a 1/4 oval)

I was at 22 / 87 and the motor was probably on the verge of smoking, but that was the only gearing that had the truck toping out at the end of the straightaway, do I just not need to be concerned with straightline speed that much??? Any suggestions would be very helpful...

Also, if anyone can point to a couple of setup sheets that work that would be nice too
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Old 08-24-2004, 11:55 AM   #79
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Never gear for the straightaway; it's the infield of an off-road track that counts.
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Old 08-24-2004, 12:46 PM   #80
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So are you saying go down 1-2 teeth from where I am at now??
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Old 08-24-2004, 01:31 PM   #81
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Yup.

You should be around 16/87 to start.
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Old 08-25-2004, 09:44 AM   #82
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Thank you very much for the help, I will give that gearing a try....

One more question, battery position on the T3, what is the effect on jumping moving the batteries forward or back, my truck seems to slap down when it lands, it seems to jump properly, but lands real rough, would moving the batteries towards the rear help this any???

thanks again...
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Old 08-25-2004, 03:22 PM   #83
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If you're landing on flat ground, there really isn't much you can do to stop the chassis from bottoming out.

Moving the battery won't help the truck land any better than it already is. Try landing down the backside of the landing ramp, if there is one.
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Old 08-27-2004, 07:19 AM   #84
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I've been going thru the setups on associated's site for the T3, is there anywhere else I can find setups for the T3 at...I run on a large hard packed track, non-technical, with a few jumps but nothing huge....Just need a stable setup that corners well on power....(if one exists)
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Old 08-27-2004, 07:53 AM   #85
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to get the T3 to corner well on-power you have to:
A: amke sure the front wheels are still on the ground, not lifting and such.
B:more the batt all the way up front, this puts more weight on them and increses steering.
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Old 08-27-2004, 08:52 AM   #86
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I have the batteries up front already...

to make sure the front tires are not lifting you would want to be stiffer on the rear springs and possibly oil as well, correct? to keep weight transfer forward....unless I got it backwards, which is possible....
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Old 08-27-2004, 12:21 PM   #87
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Yes, you got it right, dial up more rear weight, this will hurt you if you have too much power, the rear end should squat beofre it wheelies, and the harder rear springs will make it easyer to wheelie. don't go to harder springs but do go to thicker oil. raising or lowering the front or rear end can also help. make the front end lower, this puts more weight on it. and from what i have seen of your track it is smooth so slowering the fron shouldn't be a bid deal.
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Old 08-27-2004, 05:36 PM   #88
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Cool, I will have to try those things the next time out at Checkboard...It is a great track, awesome for all the classes we run there, which are: 2wd truck, 2wd buggy, 2wd gas truck, monster truck, 1/8 scale and my favorite class RALLY

But I am quickly starting to like truck and buggy...
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Old 08-27-2004, 05:42 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally posted by AE Basher
honestly a T3 can kick a T4 in stock because it is not as wide and long. it turns sharper and tighter and cause stock motors are slow [honestly compared to mods] the T4's ablity to have higher corn speeds doesn't really matter! mod on the other hand the T3 can fp pretty easy in fast corners and you have to sow down more.
\

true, but the newer long AE chassis track better. not as much retro-steering (or corrective steering) after landing a jump or comming out of a sharp turn.

ive run both chassis on my RC10GT and so far im thrilled with the stability of the longer chassis.
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Old 08-30-2004, 11:13 AM   #90
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Do they make the longer chassis for the T3 as well as the RC10GT???
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