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Old 06-21-2004, 12:11 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally posted by kufman
In atleast one of those vids, I think both that were in the grass, I was running pro-line Dirt Paw's, part number 1043-00. They work very well in the grass and descently on loose dirt. They will wear very quickly on a hard surface. Other tires that may work well are the Trac-ta-gator PN# 1045-00, or the Speed Paws pn# 1047-00. I haven't owned those two, but they seem to have descent studs on them. One more link

http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline.html

Good luck, and have fun.
Yeah, Speed paws work great in the grass, as well as the Trac-ta-gators! The Tractagators IMO work the best in long grass
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Old 06-24-2004, 01:17 PM   #32
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Oh great T3 guru's, i bow to thee. Any way, i got a 98', and it's been sit'n fer two years. I'm look'n to revamp and see iif it's competitive, any suggestions on parts? Tracks in the central WI area that would be able see if it is?
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Old 06-24-2004, 05:29 PM   #33
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Default anyone have suggestions for parts for me?

Like I've posted b4, i got a Team Assosiated 1998 RC10T3. Everything is stock, i got the sport kit, not the team kick, so i don't have the CVD dog bones, other wise, everything is the same. The only mods i got is a Novak Rooster speed controle (with reverse...i need it, i kinda hit stuff ). I'm look'n at better servo's, CVD dog bones, some spare odds and ends for parts (controle arms, lock nuts, body pins etc.). If any of you have any suggestions on parts for the T3 so it's competitive, i'm open. If you could, could you also list a place or link where i can pick that stuff up? Thanks.
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Old 06-24-2004, 06:11 PM   #34
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Heres my speed control
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Old 06-24-2004, 06:16 PM   #35
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Here's the motor i was thinking of. It's a 12T motor (i'm guessing thats 12 turns. The speed control can handle up to a 15T turn? motor).
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Old 06-24-2004, 06:37 PM   #36
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The team assosiated book here says i got a 2.40:1, Stealth bushings, and a 23 turn motor (is that good or bad?). I got 3-piece wheels, gold anodized shocks, got rid of the mechanical speed control (burnt out too fast for my taste). Says here i need to get the stealth bearings, hard anodized shocks, and the CVD dog bones for it to be a factory team truck. Any suggestions here?
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Old 06-24-2004, 06:39 PM   #37
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The lower the number of turns on a motor, the "hotter" (faster) it is, so really the Rooster is good for "down to" a 15T motor (15+ turns). What motor are you using now? If you're hitting stuff now, with a 12T, you'd just be breaking more parts. I'd say stick with a 27T competition stock motor like a Trinity P2k, Reedy MVP, or Orion Core Stock. Modern competition stock motors are plenty fast. If you've got the sport T3 kit, I'd recommend first picking up a full set of ball bearings. That's possibly the single most important hopup for any radio controlled car made, if it doesn't already come with them (only the Team and Factory Team versions of the T3 had bearings, your sport kit should only have brass bushings).
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Old 06-24-2004, 07:13 PM   #38
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Yeah, I was thinking of keeping the stock motor in there, but if was also thinking of building a "bolt-in" setup with that other motor, everything thats atatched to the stock motor so i can just hook up the wires and away i go. Also with the hitting stuff coment, that was from when i was younger and still learning the truck, it might be different now...might. But thanks for the suggestion, if you or anyone else had more, keep'm coming, i need all the information i can get.
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Old 06-24-2004, 08:59 PM   #39
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98 T3, one word... Graphite
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Old 06-25-2004, 10:12 AM   #40
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Get some real wheels from Pro-Line since you have the 3-piece wheels still. Get come MIP CVD's, good battery packs, stock motor. It all depends on what you wanna do, if you're gonna race, then get what I listed. If not and just gonna bash what you have now should be fine. Remember it's all about driving not who has the best looking truck!
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Old 06-25-2004, 01:48 PM   #41
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Before you spend a lot of money of T3 hopups, add it up. Bearings, and CVD's get expensive. At a certain point it might be more worth while to get a T4 especially if you are going to do any racing.
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Old 06-25-2004, 02:08 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally posted by 98_T3
Yeah, I was thinking of keeping the stock motor in there, but if was also thinking of building a "bolt-in" setup with that other motor, everything thats atatched to the stock motor so i can just hook up the wires and away i go. Also with the hitting stuff coment, that was from when i was younger and still learning the truck, it might be different now...might. But thanks for the suggestion, if you or anyone else had more, keep'm coming, i need all the information i can get.
You can't run a 12T with that speed control. More turns equals milder motor. The stock 27 turn P2k has good torque and speed for that truck. I would seriously consider a T4 before spending all that coin to update a T3.
Good luck!
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Old 06-25-2004, 05:26 PM   #43
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Ok, so the motor won't work, got it. Now, how about servo's? I'm gonna buy that Futaba 3pk radio (one, becuase of the good reputaion that futaba has, and two, my old one is broke). Any good servo's i should use? How about shocks? Better running stock motors or compadible mod'd motors? Any aluminum or carbon parts for this thing either? How bought price comparision between making a RC10T3 Sport kit to the Team kit, and that price list compared to a new T4 team kit?
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Old 06-26-2004, 09:36 AM   #44
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Overall the T4 is a better truck, so if you're gonna be racing. Sell the T3 & buy a T4.
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Old 06-26-2004, 10:04 AM   #45
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K then, how bout parts for the T4? I'm still gonna keep the T3 (mainly practice truck, just to get the rust out and see if i'm skilled enough to continue and buy a T4). That and any good tracks around my area i can race the T4 at (i live in central WI...suck, nothing but farm fields and cows...yeahaw).
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