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Old 06-26-2010, 02:18 AM
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Default Castle 2200kv issue...please help

Ok guys here is the deal...and just to clarify I'm not new to RC. This is what I have...

AE RC8 RC Monster Brushless Conversion
Mamba Monster 2200KV
Hyperion 5000mah 4S 35C
Diffs 5 7 3
16T Pinion
48T Spur

and the issue...

My temps are topping 220 degrees

I had this exact set up in my SC8 brushless conversion and was temping around 170.

I had an 18T on the RC8 and dropped it to 16 to find the sweet spot and still really no change, tonight i hit 230!

I've dropped the timing on the ESC to 0 degrees and still hitting 200-210.

WTF is going on? I'm seriously confused, i have a buddy running a Vorza with the same damn setup and he is temping around 160's, the diffs were recently rebuilt, bearings are good, everything is smooth.

I'm running a AE RC8e body with a Upgrade wrap, i do have some air vents but not the front window cut out, could that really make that big of a difference?

Thanks for taking the time to read this...i just dont want to end up with a $300.00 paper weight

Bobby
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Old 06-26-2010, 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by HPI Havoc
Ok guys here is the deal...and just to clarify I'm not new to RC. This is what I have...

AE RC8 RC Monster Brushless Conversion
Mamba Monster 2200KV
Hyperion 5000mah 4S 35C
Diffs 5 7 3
16T Pinion
48T Spur

and the issue...

My temps are topping 220 degrees

I had this exact set up in my SC8 brushless conversion and was temping around 170.

I had an 18T on the RC8 and dropped it to 16 to find the sweet spot and still really no change, tonight i hit 230!

I've dropped the timing on the ESC to 0 degrees and still hitting 200-210.

WTF is going on? I'm seriously confused, i have a buddy running a Vorza with the same damn setup and he is temping around 160's, the diffs were recently rebuilt, bearings are good, everything is smooth.

I'm running a AE RC8e body with a Upgrade wrap, i do have some air vents but not the front window cut out, could that really make that big of a difference?

Thanks for taking the time to read this...i just dont want to end up with a $300.00 paper weight

Bobby

Is your mesh too tight?
have you tried 17T pinion?
Does it feel like there is drag brake on?
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Old 06-26-2010, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by bohdi
Is your mesh too tight?
have you tried 17T pinion?
Does it feel like there is drag brake on?
Thanks for the reply bro.

Mesh is perfect, I've only tried the 18T and 16T neither one really had any change, no drag brake at all, rolls real smooth.

When i had this in my SC8 I had a metal spur but i can't remember the number of teeth, i'll have to check with AE, but i'm wondering if thats my issue.

Granted I'm running in AZ were its 100 degree's at night, but like I said I've got buddies running the same set up and they are between 140F-170F
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Old 06-26-2010, 07:53 AM
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In my losi 8 I run a 16 48 with a 2200. The AE diff gears are set for more punch then the losi. I would try like a 18 to get the the same final drive gear ratio.
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Old 06-26-2010, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason Haas
In my losi 8 I run a 16 48 with a 2200. The AE diff gears are set for more punch then the losi. I would try like a 18 to get the the same final drive gear ratio.
i had an 18T in it and still had the same issue last night i went to the 16T and really saw no change in temps, just lost a little on top end.
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Old 06-26-2010, 08:01 AM
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Try a 15t pinion. Now that it's hot outside (I live in 'Vegas) I've had to gear my rigs down a tooth or two. As long as the drive train has no binding issues, the only other thing I can think of is maybe there is a bad bearing in the motor itself creating drag.
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Old 06-26-2010, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Arigato
Try a 15t pinion. Now that it's hot outside (I live in 'Vegas) I've had to gear my rigs down a tooth or two. As long as the drive train has no binding issues, the only other thing I can think of is maybe there is a bad bearing in the motor itself creating drag.

I'll try the 15T, mod 1 pinions are so damn expensive it sucks! lol.... i never thought about the motor itself being the issue. I wonder if castle can data log it to see how hot it has gotten and tell me to pound salt and no warranty i'll email them and see what they say... that a very good point thanks for the info!
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Old 06-26-2010, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by HPI Havoc
I'll try the 15T, mod 1 pinions are so damn expensive it sucks! lol.... i never thought about the motor itself being the issue. I wonder if castle can data log it to see how hot it has gotten and tell me to pound salt and no warranty i'll email them and see what they say... that a very good point thanks for the info!
How's your battery? As the voltage goes down, the temps go up...
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Old 06-26-2010, 10:26 AM
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Have you ever checked the motor bearings? contrary to popular belief brushless motors are not maintenance free, you have to pull the motor apart every few runs and check the bearings and clean out the can. A gritty or tight bearing can generate a ton of heat very quickly. Sorry to say that if your motor has hit 200+ deg it's done, The magnets on the rotor are starting to demagnetize, and will continue to run hotter than normal.
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Old 06-26-2010, 10:51 AM
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Does your shaft has any play? Do the bearings roll smooth? Open your can and spin them in your hand to check if they are still in shape.

What diff ratio has the RC8? Standaard buggy or truggy? How fast are you geared?
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Old 06-26-2010, 11:02 AM
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after running that hot, your rotor is most likely toast.

what you need is a castle motor repair kit. they are only $25 and include the rotor, bearings, front endbell, and the little spacers that go on the shaft.
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Old 06-26-2010, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by morgoth
Does your shaft has any play? Do the bearings roll smooth? Open your can and spin them in your hand to check if they are still in shape.

What diff ratio has the RC8? Standaard buggy or truggy? How fast are you geared?

shaft has minimal play, i have disassembled the can as its still under warranty. It was a Factory Team RC8 buggy, it now has the rc monster brushless conversion. the gearing is 4.3:1
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Old 06-26-2010, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by R40Victim
How's your battery? As the voltage goes down, the temps go up...

my lipo cut off is set at 3.2v per cell rather then the standard 3.0v per cell so it doesnt ever slow down it just hits the cut off and i'm done, easier on the esc and motor and will save my lipo's
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Old 06-26-2010, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by scarletboa
after running that hot, your rotor is most likely toast.

what you need is a castle motor repair kit. they are only $25 and include the rotor, bearings, front endbell, and the little spacers that go on the shaft.
thanks bro, ill pick it up asap
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Old 06-26-2010, 05:21 PM
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i had the same prob, running 2050 tekin though, geared 16- 46 rc8e. Everyone said i was undergeared, went to 18, then 20. Your right, hard to spend $13 on a pinion especially when you dont know if it will work. Mine was running anywhere from 165-195, fellow racer with same setup was hitting around 140 if my memory serves me correctly, dunno, all my bearings on car and motor where checked oiled nothing bound. Had esc programmed the same as well, me or him couldnt figure out why it was running so much hotter....everthing was the same??!!
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