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What do u use 2 make ur 1/8 electric QUIET on the track?

What do u use 2 make ur 1/8 electric QUIET on the track?

Old 06-17-2010, 10:18 PM
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Default What do u use 2 make ur 1/8 electric QUIET on the track?

At the track some 1/8's are quieter than others...I wanted to see what everyone's using to lube the ring and pinion gears and to see if they've noticed their buggy is any quieter? I've used AE black grease and Losi white lube that seems to work fairly well...what do you guys use if any?
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Old 06-17-2010, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by BLbound
At the track some 1/8's are quieter than others...I wanted to see what everyone's using to lube the ring and pinion gears and to see if they've noticed their buggy is any quieter? I've used AE black grease and Losi white lube that seems to work fairly well...what do you guys use if any?
i use losi plastic gears and losi pinnions. i dont mix an match my gears
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Old 06-18-2010, 03:05 AM
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well for "Me" when it starts to get a bit "Noisy" and if the drive lines are not bent, i'll replace the "Drive Pins" and outdrive "Cups" if there "Worn"......after that it's real Quiet again
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Old 06-18-2010, 03:40 AM
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Default Hudy "Drive Pin Replacement Tool" to replace those 3mm Drive pins.

And if you're going to keep those drive pins in near new condition, without changing the entire shaft, be sure to pick up a "Drive Pin Replacement Tool", The only one I know the part number to is the one Hudy makes. It's Part Number 106000. The link to the part is just bellow:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...placement-Tool

And I Believe most 1/8th scale buggies use the 3mm x 14mm Drive Pins. Hudy sells them in a pack of ten for around 5 dollars. Keeping these drive pins in like new condition, or replaceing them once they show signs of wear, will help keep your drive train tight and slop/play free. What we really need in 1/8th scale is an entirely new beefed up drivetrain. These little drive pins under the constant on/off pressure of these high powered Electric Motors just wears the drive pins out fairly fast.

PS. The Drive Pin Tool works very easy. And as for running a plastic Spur gear, I would like to run one in my Hyper 9e; but have yet to find one that will fit. The Hyper 9e uses a 40 tooth Spur gear. I know losi makes a 43tooth plastic spur gear, but do not know if it will hit the chassis. If anyone knows, please let me know. Actually, I'll ask this question on the Hyper 9e thread. Hope the aforementioned information helps.

Originally Posted by 1BLADE1
well for "Me" when it starts to get a bit "Noisy" and if the drive lines are not bent, i'll replace the "Drive Pins" and outdrive "Cups" if there "Worn"......after that it's real Quiet again
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Old 06-18-2010, 04:18 AM
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I've been thinking Ball Drive for these would be good, like the FG's have.

Basicly miniature versions of 1/1 driveshafts.

Spur's and pinions are usually better when using same brand.
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Old 06-18-2010, 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by MindThoughts
And if you're going to keep those drive pins in near new condition, without changing the entire shaft, be sure to pick up a "Drive Pin Replacement Tool", The only one I know the part number to is the one Hudy makes. It's Part Number 106000. The link to the part is just bellow:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...placement-Tool

And I Believe most 1/8th scale buggies use the 3mm x 14mm Drive Pins. Hudy sells them in a pack of ten for around 5 dollars. Keeping these drive pins in like new condition, or replaceing them once they show signs of wear, will help keep your drive train tight and slop/play free. What we really need in 1/8th scale is an entirely new beefed up drivetrain. These little drive pins under the constant on/off pressure of these high powered Electric Motors just wears the drive pins out fairly fast.

PS. The Drive Pin Tool works very easy. And as for running a plastic Spur gear, I would like to run one in my Hyper 9e; but have yet to find one that will fit. The Hyper 9e uses a 40 tooth Spur gear. I know losi makes a 43tooth plastic spur gear, but do not know if it will hit the chassis. If anyone knows, please let me know. Actually, I'll ask this question on the Hyper 9e thread. Hope the aforementioned information helps.
We need to replace the center drive shafts with a CV shaft with a splined slip yoke.

Not alot we can do about the front and rear dogbones. A poorly greased splined shaft would bind the suspension up.
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Old 06-18-2010, 04:51 AM
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I am surprised nobody has mentions gear mesh between the motor pinion and spur . I see this almost every time at the track , guys can`t figure out why there`s is so much louder . Once i show them the mesh is extremely to tight or to loose and adjust it they are much better .
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Old 06-18-2010, 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Briguy
I am surprised nobody has mentions gear mesh between the motor pinion and spur . I see this almost every time at the track , guys can`t figure out why there`s is so much louder . Once i show them the mesh is extremely to tight or to loose and adjust it they are much better .
+1, & If the pinion gear is worn out It will be louder, same with the spur!.
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Old 06-18-2010, 04:59 AM
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The Elite Rc mount locks your mesh in really good and deosn't shift at all. It'll prevent wear to the gears by your mesh getting bumped off weird in a main.

I've noticed that the cars equipped with the elite mounta and fresh gears stay quiet much longer. The Techno Kit cars are screwed, thier mesh change evertime the chassis flexes.

Once your gears get chewed up a little from a mesh slip they'll allways be noisey.
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Old 06-18-2010, 05:48 AM
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Another thing to try is CVD maintenance. I have found that I need to oil my Losi CVD's just about every run to keep them from squeaking or otherwise make noise. This is true of my RC8 front CVD's as well. The rear CVD's are booted and they stay greased really well. I replaced the center CVD's with O'Donnell dog bones and Ofna cups on the gear boxes. With a little bit of shimming using some foam, I was able to make them run very quietly and they are less prone to dirt clogging. When they wear out, it is only $10 to get new ones. Lots cheaper than using CVD's. I also use plastic spurs mostly from Losi since their design is the best I have seen. They use the metal pressure plate which allows for a good seal with the diff case. I built a Losi center diff for my AE car. Fits perfectly, you just have to use the correct bearings for the AE bulkheads.
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Old 06-18-2010, 09:48 AM
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Default All 1/8th scale RC's need a beefed up, improved, redisigned, more efficient driveline

Great idea, but I'm having trouble visualizing exactly what you mean. Can you please post some close up pictures of these parts you mention all RC's need to shift their drivetrains to, in order to run quieter, smoother, and less wear/slop/play in our electric overpowered drivetrains. When I say overpowered, I mean that all of our 1/8th scale Electricity powered buggies are still using the vastly inaproprieate nitro power intended, 3mm drive pins, drive cups/outdrives, and unreliable and wear excessive cvd's. These parts may have been sufficient for the much softer power a nitro motor with a clutch puts a drivetrain through. But nothing compares to the 100% instant torque and massive power of the clutchless electric motor. It's definitly high time for a completely beefed up drivetrain upgrade. This would minimize wear, thus eliminate drivetrain slop and play and therfore also reduce drivetrain noise. And all friction areas of this all new beefed up drivetrain will need to be sealed with reliable and Functional, dust boots allowing all friction areas of the drivetrain to be kept oiled/greased with Mobil 1 grease, or your own personal preferance.

PS. What is an FG?



Originally Posted by UK.hardcore
I've been thinking Ball Drive for these would be good, like the FG's have.

Basicly miniature versions of 1/1 driveshafts.

Spur's and pinions are usually better when using same brand.
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Old 06-18-2010, 10:05 AM
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If the RC companies wanted to, thee could easily make dog bones work. Just some boots with grease would make a huge difference. Durango did it! Why couldn't we do it on a 1/8th scale?
Attached Thumbnails What do u use 2 make ur 1/8 electric QUIET on the track?-durango_boots.jpg  
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Old 06-18-2010, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by MindThoughts
Great idea, but I'm having trouble visualizing exactly what you mean. Can you please post some close up pictures of these parts you mention all RC's need to shift their drivetrains to, in order to run quieter, smoother, and less wear/slop/play in our electric overpowered drivetrains. When I say overpowered, I mean that all of our 1/8th scale Electricity powered buggies are still using the vastly inaproprieate nitro power intended, 3mm drive pins, drive cups/outdrives, and unreliable and wear excessive cvd's. These parts may have been sufficient for the much softer power a nitro motor with a clutch puts a drivetrain through. But nothing compares to the 100% instant torque and massive power of the clutchless electric motor. It's definitly high time for a completely beefed up drivetrain upgrade. This would minimize wear, thus eliminate drivetrain slop and play and therfore also reduce drivetrain noise. And all friction areas of this all new beefed up drivetrain will need to be sealed with reliable and Functional, dust boots allowing all friction areas of the drivetrain to be kept oiled/greased with Mobil 1 grease, or your own personal preferance.

PS. What is an FG?
If they did that we wouldnt be buying their replacement parts all the time...
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Old 06-18-2010, 05:44 PM
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Great suggestions guys...it's kinda weird how we kinda got "off topic" and started redesigning transmissions! I'm running a kyosho 46T plastic spur with losi pinions...my car is pretty quiet, but I'm glad someone mentioned looking at the cvd joints or drive pins in the universals...mine are pretty worn out and need replacing...that could cut down on drivetrain noise too...thanks!
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Old 06-18-2010, 06:17 PM
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Default Maybe a 4 or 5 or even a six mm drive pin/dog bone rather than the dinky little 3mm.

Hi Kufman,
good to see you on this thread, You are so right that the good old Dogbone Style Drive Pin could continue to work if properly sealed up with dust boots that actually worked and didn't rip and tear right away because they rub against the Sway Bars like on the Hyper 9e(needs sway bars that go ever so slightly Around the front and rear outdrive dust boots). Just makes no sense to make a design only half complete. Or the sense it makes is disheartening to realize. Manufacturers cutting design corners to try and save money. But the problem witht that is, every single person that buys the Buggy, quickly learns about certain design neglecks that should have been worked out before release. But don't get me wronge, I still think the Hyper 9e is the finnest and most simplistic and well balanced 1/8th scale buggy released to date. And it's the first Buggy ever to finally step away from the two seperate center drive shafts, and to use one simple aluminum Dogbone. Yes, this is a ground up Electric Design.

Topic:

Yes, a tight drivetrain can reduce noise because you're not going to hear the rattle of Drive pins loose in their outdrive's/drive cups. a tight greesed fit is definitly going to be quieter and smoother than a worn out loose, sloppy drive line/Drive Train.

If we're going to be using the dog bone/drive pin design, for one, I like that it cost so much less than the cvd, and also, the cvd design wears out the shaft as well, and those are allot more expensive than a bag of drive pins that only cost about 5 dollars. But it would be nice if the drive Pin was a little bit bigger, or even allot bigger. Bigger/thicker would also increase the service life of the drive pins. Though Hudy would have to make a New Drive Pin Replacement tool, from what I understand, it only pops out the 3mm drive pin variety. Though, we could always use a chain breaker. I heard there is one that works quite well. I just don't know the part number.


Originally Posted by kufman
If the RC companies wanted to, thee could easily make dog bones work. Just some boots with grease would make a huge difference. Durango did it! Why couldn't we do it on a 1/8th scale?
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