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Old 05-29-2004, 08:54 PM   #106
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Hey fabolousRC

Thanks for the info!!!

But is this Shaft drive??? Can't see getting a belt drive car... Been running 1/8 buggies for so long, didn't see the reason anybody would go belt...


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Old 05-29-2004, 08:58 PM   #107
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Hey fabolousRC

Never mine, just google'd it... Wish they had a pic without the body...

Nice feature""Features gear cover and spur gear cover""

Hope they make the wheels something standard... Looks good though!!!


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Old 05-30-2004, 01:29 AM   #108
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hey guys,

just to give you a quick update.

the assemble went pretty well overall. Decent fit for the parts, make sure you have a dremel handy just in case. I was really suprised to see how beefy the parts are compared to so a TC3 hub vs an Academy Hub. The parts do have alittle flex in them, but nothing rediculous.

I did change a few things during assembly, I went ahead for the phillips screws that are on the shock tower to diff case assembly I used allens as they seem to be easier to turn in that area.

I also removed the battery tray they provide as with my GP3300s in side x side configuration they just don't fit the tray. I am going to rebuild the packs as the current build leaves something to be desired but they won't fit the mounts. My 3000s and 2400s fit great though. Anyone sporting around will love the mounting system.

As for the shocks, I will be definitely looking into some B4 shocks, but I think they will get the job done ok. If you plan to run the kit shocks with the AE springs, you will need to use different bottom cups, RPM ones will fit the shocks fine. AE springs also don't bind on the kit shocks.

Also, I noticed when installing the front diff with the recommended spacers / shims, it seemed to bind with the bevel gear for the drive cup, but when I fully assembled it it when away. I had to learn this the hard way as I tried to be cute and during initial install fiddled with the shims, had to tear it down to get back there and reset them. I will say though getting to the diff wasn't that hard, easier I think than my TC3.

as for the driveshaft, I thought it could have been alittle longer or MRC / Academy should have included two sets of those springs as this would have captured the driveshaft better. I used some rubber O-Rings ( 2 ) in the cup and that took up the slop there, alittle play still there just in case but I think it will work well.

THe only major issue I had and the reason I said make sure you have access to a dremel is that my drive pins for the axles were too long for the wheel hexes. they hexes were dead on 10mm, but the pins were like 10.10mm using my caliper. I filed them down till they cleared.

A minor issue was looking at the current travel in the front shocks ( I took care of that rear dogbone slop with a spacer in the diff drive cup ) is that the CVAs seem to be hanging out to there limits. similar to how the B3 had that issue in the rear. I may look into adding a spacer or two to the inside of the shock to limit down travel a bit.

All in all, I am happy with how the build went. I just need to finish some more mounting tommorrow and I will be all set.

Anyone know what some good starting points are for a 19T motor and a 10 turn motor?

Oh, I also got a little bonus from Academy in the kit, included was 5 of the bigger wheel sized bearings. Not sure why but they were there. Should make good spares.
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Old 05-30-2004, 11:18 AM   #109
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What exactly did you file to make the wheels fit on the frong without binding ? If I crank it down, it binds, not sure what it is binding on. I think they should include some sort of spacer so you can crank it down better. The wheels however feel really great, I like the material how stiff it is.
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Old 05-30-2004, 11:29 AM   #110
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Also, what did you do to get your GP3300s to fit? Will they fit with the tray still in the buggy or did you just mount it direct to the chassis?
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Old 05-30-2004, 01:06 PM   #111
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Hey Cain

The GP3300's you tried, were they the Newer shorter cells or the older GP3300's???


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Old 05-30-2004, 02:11 PM   #112
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These were the new shorty cells. From what I understand and can tell they look to be slightly larger than the Sanyo 3000HV. I think it could be do however to the way they are assembled ( not very good ), I am going to dissasemble them and redo it with a Deans Speed Jig, This should get the cells as tight as possible together. The Sanyos fit perfectly though.

Just finished up the body, its a beater so I am not too worried about how it came out, the lexan is thick though, so it should last. If you destroy the wing I would be suprised.
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Old 05-30-2004, 10:23 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally posted by bgotori
Hey fabolousRC

Never mine, just google'd it... Wish they had a pic without the body...

Nice feature""Features gear cover and spur gear cover""

Hope they make the wheels something standard... Looks good though!!!


Thanks Again!!!

Brad Gotori
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Actually the wheels are pretty much standard Touring hexes type so you can swap 'em with Kyosho TR15s or even the Super Touring ones (Kyosho make em in standard and wide size wheels...all are 2.2 of course).

Another thing that Tamiya put is they use a tunnel type stiffener to further sealed the center shaft and stiffened the chassis instead of using a seperate carbon plate.

Check this page for closer look at the chassis although it is the XB version not the kit version:

http://www.hobby.co.jp/hobby_show/rc/02.htm

The kit version comes with 8 ball bearings and ESC. Unfortunately the camber links are fix but they do include Tamiya (painstakingly to adjust) turnbuckles. The arms material are fortunately composite but the chassis is standard issue shiny molded FRP just like TT01. According to TT01 owners the chassis is quite robust and pretty much almost all TT01 options will be able to be use in Gravel Hound. I can't wait to get one although the Sb sport looked interesting as well...
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Old 05-31-2004, 07:39 AM   #114
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I hope to get the buggy outside and do some running today, basically around here with the 10T Double in it.

The suspension could use alittle stiffening up as the kit springs are kind of soft, especially in the front. Probably good if you running on a really broken up surface and you need straight line stability, good for a basher I would think.

One thing I also noticed, make sure that if you plan to mount electronics, pay attention to there height as the body sits extremely low. First time I mounted electronics I forgot to do this and put the receiver on the servo, big no no. You probably could mount all the electronics on the chassis and if you have a ESC with a power capacitor put it on the upper deck. Since I need to use the receiver in more than one application I have that on the upper deck but the velcro makes it sit kind of high and rubs the body. But the velcro setup I think will hold great and the undertray feels durable.

If you get the gravel hound let us know what you think, another 4wd thread would be good too, generate more interest overall. I think though if you go with the SB, even the sport version, you will be happy.
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Old 05-31-2004, 07:52 AM   #115
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Shawn,

Do you know when ultimate hobbies will start carrying parts? I figure they will have them priced less that what MRC will sell direct. If tower would pick this buggy up this thing could fly off the shelves!
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Old 05-31-2004, 09:33 AM   #116
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Hey Cain

Thanks for the info on the batteries!!!


Great Racing!!!

Brad Gotori
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Old 05-31-2004, 09:43 AM   #117
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Hey fabolousRC

Thanks for the info!!! Looks Great, another 4X4 buggy!!! When this becomes available I'll be getting one!!! When this becomes available we should start another thread for it(Tamiya buggy).

I hope MRC gets there Act together and gets the SB out in force.

WOW with both these out, I can get both and still be under a Yok or Losi buggy price wise...HAHAHA


Great Racing!!!

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Old 05-31-2004, 10:31 AM   #118
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I got a chance to run the vehicle, nothing fancy just some of the things a basher would do, did this on a 10T double. Will have to gear lower, I was running 17T pinion and 72 spur, felt hot, went up a tooth and it felt alittle hotter but will have to see, running the undertray probably heats its up. I wonder if the BJ4x4 guys will run one? If not, I may take it off of my buggy and rig a mounting system .

It ran great, the flat out punch was something to see. I am really impressed. It has alot of built in steering as far as it speed, I had to turn it down quite a bit and I am using all terrain tires. ( dirt hawgs ), I will say though you probably will want to play with the suspension as I feel it is too soft when coming off a jump. Maybe start with the AE B4 stock springs and go from there. Will look into setting it up this way and getting some RPM ball cups for the bottom. Make sure that you threadlock the screw that clamps the motor mount down as I didn't do this and I think it backed out alittle on my first run and when I hit hard the curb it knocked the motor free. After I did this it worked great!
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Old 05-31-2004, 11:30 AM   #119
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Here are some pics:

Pic #1
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File Type: jpg copy of dsc01387.jpg (64.5 KB, 271 views)
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Old 05-31-2004, 11:30 AM   #120
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Pic #2
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