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Old 08-18-2004, 02:28 PM   #721
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That Pro on ebay you are after, I see he has taken the buy it now button off, and he never responded to my email either.
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Old 08-18-2004, 02:39 PM   #722
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Hey Cain:

Depending on how smooth your track surface is, I would try the 9 degree kickup in the front. I have been playing around with the setup on my SB and found that the 9 degrees of kickup felt much more planted. I also moved the camber link on the Front Shock tower to the inner most hole on the bottom row. Without a front one-way, this helps to increase corner speed by changing the roll center.
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Old 08-18-2004, 07:26 PM   #723
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Thanks for the info guys. I think the link is set there but I will check. I will also look into the lower kickup setting when I get back.

I managed to get in touch with him and it looks like we have something worked out. Will let you know if I get it.
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Old 08-18-2004, 09:41 PM   #724
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Chris, you run at SoCal in Huntington Beach right? How does that track compare (size/surface) with Titus in Riverside? That is where I am running my SB, and am looking for set up tips for there.
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Old 08-19-2004, 09:51 AM   #725
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JK Racing:

Titus and So Cal are pretty similar. The dirt at Titus has a much higher clay contact, and when run dry is more abbrasive to the tires. The setups that I run do not differ from Titus to So Cal as they are both relatively smooth surfaces. Here is what I run at So Cal.

SB Setup for So Cal

Front:
Shocks: Losi
Piston: 57 (Black Losi)
Spring: Green
Oil: 35 wt
Limiting: .050
Tower: Middle Hole
Arm: Inside Hole
Ride Height: Arms just above level
Kick-up: 9 Degrees
Camber Link: Bottom Row Inner most hole
Camber: -1 degree
Toe In/Out: -0.5 degree doe in

Rear:
Shocks: Losi
Piston: 56 (Pink Losi)
Spring: Pink
Oil: 35 wt
Limiting: none
Tower: Middle Hole
Arm: Inside Hole
Ride Height: Arms Level
Camber Link: Inside Hole on tower
Inside Hole on Hub
Anti-Squat: 2 degree
Toe In: 3 Degrees

Tires:
Front: M3 LP Fwd Front Holeshot, full size stock rear foam
Rear: M3 LP Holeshot. Trinity Bomb 1 (grey)

Motor: Orion V2 10X2
Gearing: 18/70

Notes: I am running the Carbon front plate and Top Deck with an extra chassis post on the top deck to add stiffness to the chassis. I am also running the slipper, but am running a modified drive shaft that is a little longer than the stock one.
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Old 08-19-2004, 04:02 PM   #726
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hey guys.....i just went to academy....and im gonna order lots of stuff......can u guys list all the things u can think that i need to get in terms of bearings and any stuff that mrc makes that helps the car
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Old 08-19-2004, 04:38 PM   #727
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The bearings you will want are listed in the thread, look around pages 10 and up. would post but I don't have it on me right now.

I would get the slipper clutch and maybe some spare arms , fronts primarily is what I broke. You can also get the aluminum motor cam or do the waffle trick to the stock cam.

would post more but I have to get going. sorry I couldn't list more.
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Old 08-19-2004, 05:48 PM   #728
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For bearings you will need:

10 X 15 = 4 ea, for inner hubs front & rear
5 X 10 = 4 ea, for outer hubs front & rear
5 X 8 = 4 ea, 2 for each differential
4 X 8 flanged = 4ea, for steering mounts

I would get a set of adjustable turnbuckles, I personally ordered metric ones made by Lundsford, but it has been posted that some b3/b4 combinations work.

Depending on what you are doing with the car, I would look into replacing/upgrading the shocks that come with the car. At the very least, replace the springs.

The slipper is a must in my book.

I set of u-joints for the rear couldnt hurt.

Extra rims are always a must in my book also.

(my book is getting heavy to carry, lol)

Hope that helps out some. Good luck with the car, it is a great platform.
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Old 08-19-2004, 06:03 PM   #729
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thanks a bunch man....im new to this car so im very excited to get my order.
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Old 08-19-2004, 06:12 PM   #730
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Hey, sorry I couldn't post more at the time.

everything listed sounds right.

You can use the B3 turnbuckle kit completely . Just put the shorter links on the steering arms.

Picking up a spare set of diff gears isn't a bad idea either.

Just took a look at all I have to bring to ND and I won't beable to take my vehicle
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Old 08-19-2004, 06:19 PM   #731
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why would u need extra diff gears? do they get chewed up under acceleration or are they just crappy
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Old 08-19-2004, 06:37 PM   #732
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They actually are pretty durable. But they are cheap and if for some reason don't set your gear mesh right you will be happy to have a set in your pit box. I learned the hard way, but luckily my LHS had them.
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Old 08-19-2004, 06:57 PM   #733
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ok that sounds good...thanks for the help guys.....i guess i will have to get this on my second order
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Old 08-19-2004, 07:08 PM   #734
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JK Racing:

SB Setup for Discount Hobbies in Texas:

Front:
Shocks: Losi
Piston: 57 (Black Losi)
Spring: Green
Oil: 30 wt
Limiting: none
Tower: Outside Hole
Arm: Outside Hole
Ride Height: Arms just above level
Kick-up: 12 Degrees
Camber Link: Bottom Row Outer most hole
Camber: -1 degree
Toe In/Out: 1 degree toe in

Rear:
Shocks: Losi
Piston: 56 (Pink Losi)
Spring: Pink
Oil: 30 wt
Limiting: none
Tower: Middle Hole
Arm: Outer Hole
Ride Height: Arms Level
Camber Link: Bottom Outer Hole on tower
Inside Hole on Hub
Anti-Squat: 2 degree
Toe In: 2 Degrees

Tires:
Front: Stock Fusion, full size stock rear foam
Rear: Stock Fusion, full size stock rear foam

Motor: Novak Brushless 5800
Gearing: 18/70
Slipper: yes

Notes: Temp 90 Degrees, Track is bummpy and hard. The track dries out fast making dusty and slick. Water for the main made it tacky that the tires hooked up very well.

Layout attached.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg gtown layout.jpg (44.2 KB, 117 views)
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Old 08-19-2004, 11:05 PM   #735
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Thank you guys for the set ups, for anyone interested, here is a shot of my car...http://pak01.pictures.aol.com/NASApp...event=ViewFilm
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