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Old 08-01-2004, 12:26 PM   #661
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Originally posted by Cain
I think the main issue with the Academy based decks is the cost. They really are expensive.
I guess it is down to exchange rates and all that business as over here, ALL Academy parts a silly cheap, I mean, it makes you REALY wonder where the other makers money goes to be honest, lol.
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Old 08-01-2004, 04:47 PM   #662
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We get pretty killed over here. Here is an example:

Carbon Upper deck: $35 ( for the long one! )
Carbon Battery Strap: $20
Carbon Front Upper Plate: $30

Honestly at those prices you probably are better to get someone to machine the parts, buy the Pro Sedan and take it from there if it fits ( the sedan only retails for $199 ) or wait for the Pro buggy.
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Old 08-01-2004, 04:58 PM   #663
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Cain, those prices are pretty good realy if you go compare them to a Team Schumacher or Yokomo parts. Over here in blighty (UK, lol) an STR4 Pro is 179, which equates at an exchange rate of say $1.70 per British pound is $304, so it aint bad mate.

Until Associated dropped the price of the B4, it worked out cheaper after paying import duty, and tax on a kit from the states than ANY retailer could ship them out over here....

The Academy pricing has been like a breath of fresh air.

As for Carbon parts, if you CAN get a sheet of Carbon Fibre, drilling the holes is the easy part, cutting it out and making it look sweet is hard. I am tempted at the moment to make a chassis but to move the cells as far forward as I can, or even have seven slots so I end up with three battery positions.
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Old 08-01-2004, 05:50 PM   #664
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I guess to me that seems a bit high but who knows I could be wrong.
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Old 08-03-2004, 09:35 AM   #665
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Hey guys here is my quick race report:

I did the mod that Rickster on the www.rc10b4.com site recommended for the motor cam. my dremel sure sucks but what can you expect for $10 ? I managed to do something that barely resembles a waffle pattern and the cuts weren't deep so the track would tell if the motor mount falling out would be cured.

I changed pistons in the rear to #1 . the suspension action felt better.

I did about 2 battery packs of practicing. some hard jumps taken and some serious nose in the dirt action. I figured what the hell and gave it a hard drive. I decided to go up in spring rates all around so I was using greens in the rear and silvers up front. That really made a difference in the jumping department as the vehicle just flat out launches off the jumps. The vehicle felt good enough to race.

Conditions: Night racing, very loose, especially after the 1/8 scales run.

Opposition: 3-4 XXX-4s, 1-XX4, 1 B4 buggy. ( may have been another 2wd buggy, not sure ). Brushless to mod motor systems.

First Heat:

got a great holeshot after starting in last position making sure to not get involved in the pileup on the table top. shot in second place. Managed to battle up to first and drove consistent. The vehicle felt pretty good but could be alittle more planted in the rear. But suspension action was great, good balance between track handling and big jump handling. I was going good then all of a sudden it just stopped. I managed to pop my negative wire off the motor.

The connection just wasn't that good so I spent a good while in the pits working on getting it soldered down correctly.

Second Heat: As I have cheapo packs, I ran my Sanyo 3000HVs in the first race. Next race I ran my second best GP3300 ( 1.15+ ) and the power was noticeably different. The vehicle was so punchy that I wasn't able to be as consistent as before ( mental note: buy all GP packs! ). I ended up coming down funny off a jump and the vehicle wouldn't turn. I took it off expecting the worse. something was binding up and after looking hard and long ( diffs, etc ) I found that the pin in the UJ axle had backed out alittle. put it back in and the vehicle was brought back to life.

Main:

I really wish I had some step-pins for the rear right now. Racing at night the conditions after 1/8 scale gets a hold of the track warrant it. I think that would solve some of my traction issues in the rear.

I went ahead and loaded in my best GP3300 ( another 1.15+ ) and as I was repeaking it I realized that I forgot to put it to charge. so I did a fast 6.5 Amp charge ( not recommended ) to get it up as much as possible before the race and I think I only got about 2400mah into the pack.

I went out and magically had qualified last, no suprise here! In a way i was glad as it would put in me in the back and have a chance to work on fighting to the front and avoid the first turn pileup.

I managed to get flipped over in a crash after the first turn before the massive up and over jump ( not sure how to describe it really ). I was pushing the vehicle a bit hard so tumbling was part of the race for me but it kept coming back for more.

About 2 minutes in I managed to get into second place with the pack close behind. 1st place was really out there as usual but everyone was competitive. As the last lap was being made my vehicle decided that it was time to dump, and I died right on the weird non-name jump and ended up completed stopped about 10-15feet from the finish line. So I ended up taking 4th which would have been 2nd if I didn't dump.

in summary, no broken parts again! vehicle handled pretty well and I plan to work on it some more to get alittle more rear bite, especially side bite. I think that the front oneway will help though in two sections were you would be better off if you could turn sharp off power like a 2wd. The motor cam mod does work. The motor did not move at all once I had it installed properly.
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Old 08-03-2004, 10:36 AM   #666
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Cain, have you got a direct link to the Rickster mod you are talking about?
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Old 08-03-2004, 11:29 AM   #667
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I will do you one better, here is what he posted on www.rc10b4.com :

the motor cam part.. (the piece that attaches to the motor)
i take it off the end of the motor where it attaches with the 2 screws... if you look at it sideways.. the smaller round part that fits into the motor mount (that holds the engine in the car).
on that round part i grind in a row of grooves going all the way around the round area.. about 1mm apart.. then i grind around it the other way about 1mm apart.. this makes a waffle looking pattern in the outter part going around it... so instead of the smaller round area being smooth like stock mine now has a kind of a waffle pattern... make sence?
and on the other part the mount that attaches to the chassis... where the screw is for tightening the motor and holding it in place.. i take it out and remove the washer in the little thin space.. then i take a thin flat dremel cuttoff wheel and go in that slot.. i just smooth it and make it the same width as the cutoff wheel... then i put in a tiny bit thinner washer and put everything back together... and no more moving motor... piece of cake.!!!!
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Old 08-04-2004, 05:23 AM   #668
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hey guys!

If you want a really heavy duty camber gauge and good part boxes ( Thanks Tim! ) give MRC a call . The camber gauge feels like quality, must better than the RPM guage and the boxes are really nice too!

On www.raceacademy.net the aluminum steering arms are going to be sold worldwide. So I am going to look into picking up a set in the US unless someone local is planning to make some.
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Old 08-04-2004, 11:36 AM   #669
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hey guys, who all would be interested in a full graphite conversion for the sb? (chassis, upper decks, shock towers, batt. strap) I think I can put together a kit for less that 100 bucks. all cut in a cnc machining center. lemme know
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Old 08-04-2004, 11:40 AM   #670
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If you can do a first run and post the detailed pics I think you will see a good amount of interest.
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Old 08-04-2004, 11:49 PM   #671
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I couldn't get Kose-RC to respond to me. So I made my own motor mount.
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Old 08-04-2004, 11:51 PM   #672
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Another pic
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Old 08-05-2004, 12:06 AM   #673
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Here is a pic of the car.
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Old 08-05-2004, 12:07 AM   #674
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Another pic
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Old 08-05-2004, 05:29 AM   #675
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Nice Paint job! I would run a black too but since I run at night that would work out too well.

So how is the mount that you machined working out for you? There probably are alot of people who are interested in purchasing one if you decide to sell.

Can you take some pictures of the mount on the vehicle, as well as close ups of the mount with a motor in it? I want to see where the solder tabs now will sit compared to how it is now.

From what I understand this mount will probably help in cooling as well as it doesn't cover up as much of the bottom of the motor so hot air can pass through easier.

Evolution Product guys, so whats the final word on the motor mount ( assuming its the Kose one ) and steering arms. Can you quote us some prices in Dollars as well as shipping cost?

Thanks!
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Last edited by Cain; 08-05-2004 at 05:35 AM.
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