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Old 07-29-2004, 01:02 AM   #646
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You want to set them so they do not slip anytime. This means, whenever you hear a barking noise under acceleration or braking, your diffs are probably too loose.

My front diff is a bit more thight than the rear diff, which makes the car handle very good. (More acceleration out of a corner)
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Old 07-29-2004, 06:20 AM   #647
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I have mine set the same. You will usually need to reset your diff alittle after you first rebuild and your first run or two.

Don't' get too crazy how tight you make it as you can notch the rings pretty good.

If you do get the SB, look into the slipper. It will make you VERY HAPPY
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Old 07-29-2004, 06:55 AM   #648
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When you build the dif, take the SB out for a bash to help SETTLE in the diff parts and you need to set it just tight enough so it don't slip.

If you find that the diff slips during a race, and you continue, be carefull when you tighten up, do it very gently.
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Old 07-29-2004, 11:32 AM   #649
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Tim at MRC gave me a couple links to these forums to look at what types of things people have been doing with the SB Sport. I am working with MRC here doing some testing of the buggy. I will be racing the 4-wheel at many of the major events in the west coast area. I have been looking at some of the setups and this is what I ran the other night. The car felt very good, but I needed to instal an extra post in the center to help stiffin up the chassis. I also used two turnbuckles from the top deck to the screws that mount the back of the front shock to add additional stiffness to the chassis.

Here is the setup that I ran and the test conditions:

Track: So Cal R/C Raceway
Date: 7/28/04
Time: Night, about 70-75 degrees
Conditions: Damp/drying clay surface - medium/high bite

Front:
Kickup: 12 degrees
Castor: Stock
Camber: Tower on the upper inside hole, -1 degree
Toe in/out: Toe out, -1 degree
Shocks: Losi
Piston: #57 (black losi)
Spring: Green Buggy
Shock Oil: 30 wt Losi
Limiting: 0.090"
Tower: Middle hole
Arm: Inside Hole
Sway Bar: none
Ride Height: Bones just above level

Rear:
Pivot Support: 2 degrees
Camber: Lower middle on Tower, Inside on Hub
Hub Position: Center
Shocks: Losi
Piston: #56 (pink losi)
Spring: Pink
Shock Oil: 27.5
Limiting: 0.190"
Tower: Middle hole
Arm: Inside Hole
Swaybar: Middle size (0.067")
Ride Height: Arms level

Motor: Team Orion Revolution Modified 14x2
Gearing: 23/70 with slipper
Front tires: Stock
Rear Tires: Stock
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Old 07-29-2004, 12:41 PM   #650
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Welcome to the forums!

Have you tried any of the graphite parts such as the upper deck?

I need to find out the conversion between losi pistons to AE pistons so i can get an idea of what they equate to .

On your orion motor what configuration are you using? ( ie- springs, etc ).

Tim's a great guy, having him there for customer service helps you know that you got a guy trying to do good for the consumer.

Anyone who spoke with Tim recently, any news on when the axles for the UJs will be available?
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Old 07-29-2004, 12:46 PM   #651
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The Associated pistons would convert to a losi piston something like this.

Associated #1 = Losi #55

Associated #2 = Losi #56

Associated #3 = Losi #57

They are actually a bit inbetween because associated used a 2-hole piston vs. Losi pistons which have 3 holes. I hope this helps.
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Old 07-30-2004, 06:25 AM   #652
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Thanks for the piston info.

I got cleaned up for tonite's racing. Went ahead with the #1 pistons in the rear and it feels better this time so we will see how it goes.

Got the V2 cleaned up, i think I did get some hung brush action I went ahead and rebuilt the motor, the comm though was in excellent shape, no skimming required.

I hope that orion makes a tool for cleaning the brushhoods on the V2 style motors. I managed to get a comm stick in there but it was a pain.

I went ahead and also did the cotton trick behind the brushes. I hope this keeps out the dust. I could sure tell there was a hung brush issue, ran it alittle on 4 cells before cleaning and was ok, after cleaning it was a beast!
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Old 07-30-2004, 09:27 PM   #653
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Well I received all my parts from MRC and proceeded to tear down the buggy and replace the needed items and redo the diffs.

The new outdrive shaft I received for the front was too long on the inner portion and I had to dremel it down to the correct length. I hope it works. It did go together ok.

I have the Duratrax (losi knock offs) shocks and replaced the oil with 45 and 40. Feels much better. Will have to see at the track. Stabilizer bars went on ok also.

Still waiting to put in the slipper. I have to send my novak in to get repaired.

I will let you all know how everything works once it is all back together.

In the meantime I ordered an 1/8 scale buggy for a little nitro fun. I am not going to the dark side. Just thought I would try it. Nothing beats indoor racing with high quality batteries and brushless power.

BTW. Check your lower kingpin bolts in front after each run. Those falling out is what I believe let to bending 2 front axles.

Chris.
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Old 07-30-2004, 09:44 PM   #654
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Hey Cain

I saw Steve(SpeedTechRC)about the KOSE Parts.

You can read what I said in the SpeedTechRC Thread you started.



Great Racing!!!

Brad Gotori
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Old 07-31-2004, 08:23 AM   #655
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yeah that sucks.

Not sure what you mean tmpdoc. do you mean you had to dremel the UJ shaft? I did have to dremel the UJ inner hole for the pin.

I got word that I can mention this, Academy is looking to make carbon parts for the Pro model! They are also in testing right now as we speak. I am hoping to get word on durability and weight difference of the vehicle.

Will post later my race report.
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Old 07-31-2004, 09:44 AM   #656
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Here are some pics of some graphite parts a MRC team driver manufactured.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg picture 552.jpg (100.1 KB, 101 views)
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Old 08-01-2004, 09:12 AM   #657
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Anyone tried Schumacher rims on the Academy Hexes?
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Old 08-01-2004, 09:31 AM   #658
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cain
Here are some pics of some graphite parts a MRC team driver manufactured.
look good now get the bottom on there and it would look like a killer.
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Old 08-01-2004, 10:13 AM   #659
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Academy do all Carbon Fibre parts for the SB/STR, so you can get a chassis, long topdeck, short topdeck, battery brace.

This person has made the longer topdeck designed by, I think, Inferno on here, which stiffens things up a bit.

I will take a picture later on this evening of the topdeck I have made, the mod isn't fully complete as I am waiting for the nitro car longer steering posts to fully fit the nitro trucl/VXB steering on it to try to remove the flex in the arms and give more positive steering through ALL the steering range. It also allows you to then ditch the mini front deck, and lose a little more flex, I have it fitted, and by crikey it makes it stiff. This IS a handmade item, and something that myself and AcademyUK agreed upon to run alongside his machined steering arms to test.
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Old 08-01-2004, 10:30 AM   #660
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I think the main issue with the Academy based decks is the cost. They really are expensive.
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