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Old 07-23-2004, 10:56 AM   #616
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I filled in the chart for gearing in the back of the manual. I run a Novak Brushless and have it geared at 70/19 and the temp was at ~170 degrees which is the recommended temp.
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Old 07-23-2004, 05:30 PM   #617
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Hey guys. I got rained out My LHS did however have the vehicle in stock and some parts on the wall. Some part prices I hope MRC looks into lowering as they were a bit on the high side, others were pretty good. I noticed that the drive cups look to be a different material and color, similar to the look of the diffs. I didn't buy any but I may look into getting a set if I still have wear issues. I also picked up an extra diff hub set, about 20 bucks.

I may be able to race sunday so I may get some testing in then.
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Old 07-23-2004, 09:06 PM   #618
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Well my sport is still overheating. The novak esc sometimes makes a beeping noise. It's wierd sometimes it will work just fine next to me but studder when it gets further away. And other times just studder and barely move. I don't know if it just gets so hot so quick or what. I am going to try out a new radio and receiver. I'll probably get the Airtronics MX-3 synthesized radio.

Anyone else have any suggestions?

C:\DUH! you ever have this problem with yours? What radio are you running and how did you mount your esc and receiver?

Thanks,

Chris.
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Old 07-24-2004, 12:19 AM   #619
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There may be an issue with your SS5800 itself.
The controller should thermal at about 220F, the motor around 170F

If yours thermals earlier, there may be something wrong (since you're within Novak's gearing recommendations for buggies)

in the brushless-area of radiocontrolzone.com, there some threads about pre-thermalling of the novak, perhaps you read them and try to figure out wheter its still the thight body or the BL.
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Old 07-24-2004, 12:51 AM   #620
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C:\DUH! you ever have this problem with yours? What radio are you running and how did you mount your esc and receiver?

I mounted the JR RS300 receiver on the top brace and the speed control between the motor and servo. I have not had any of those problems. I geared it below novak's recomended gearing.

Transmitter JR XS3

I did cut extra off the body on front and back of the body for more air flow.
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Old 07-24-2004, 06:29 AM   #621
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I would say try running the vehicle without the body around and see if you still thermal.
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Old 07-24-2004, 01:31 PM   #622
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I just bought the JR XS3 pro this morning. I will install when I get off work tonight. 12m.n.

I cut out the entire front windshield. I was thinking of putting the esc up there and the receiver just behind the steering servo (the one that comes with the pro is the really small one and there should be plenty of room between it and the motor. This will also eliminate any power wires near the antenna. Then I was going to put the ESC on the upper frame to get more cooling air.

Anyone have any other suggestions? Any anticipated problems with the above setup?
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Old 07-24-2004, 01:32 PM   #623
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BTW, yeah it thermalled and shuttered with the body off also.
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Old 07-24-2004, 02:18 PM   #624
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What size pinion and spur are you running?

Novak recommends the following:
9.00 : 1 for Off-Road Buggies

I went to a little over 10.00 : 1.

19 pinion and 70 Spur.

If it is very hot where you live, you may have to gear even lower maybe and 18 or 17 pinion.

Hope this helps.
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Old 07-24-2004, 06:05 PM   #625
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I am not sure if this can apply to brushless motors but you can overheat a vehicle by being undergeared. Make sure you vehicle doesn't feel like you are pretty much running full throttle all the time to get anywhere.

You can also try rigging a fan to blow air onto the unit.
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Old 07-24-2004, 10:43 PM   #626
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This info came from the Brushless manual.

I attached the new manual.
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File Type: pdf updated_motor_specgearing.pdf (84.4 KB, 91 views)
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Old 07-25-2004, 01:28 AM   #627
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Yesterday, I changed from the gear diffs over to the ball diffs.

Though I'm not a fan of ball diffs, I've to admit that I'm really impressed.
I used the recommended 3 spacers crown gear side and multi purpose lube.
The gears felt very stiff in the beginning, but they broke in immediately creating a very smooth and nice feel of the drivetrain.

Performance of the ball diffs is still remarkably better than the oil-filled gear diffs, but they're a little on the tight side right now because they're just breaking in.

Though the teeth are much smaller than the teeth of the gear diffs, I'm sure they will hold up to the Basic 4200 since the gearbox allows for absolutely no flex

BTW: not locking the diff rings to the outdrives by pins, D-shape etc. seems a good idea - my diff rings will slide on the outdrives before the balls begin to slide on the diff rings under severe force and saving my diffs.

The only drawback is that a complete ball diff costs around 50US$$ here in Austria, where I could get away with 17US$ for the RT-4GP gear diff

And that's what you get on 8 cells BL ...





I've run through about 40-50packs and the SB-Sport didn't need any maintainance yet and there isn't even anything that seems to go soon - we'll see how the ball diffs do their job

Last edited by re-inferno; 07-25-2004 at 01:36 AM.
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Old 07-25-2004, 02:28 AM   #628
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Re-inferno,

How are you holding down the 8 cells and how did you make your pack? Any pics of your setup would be great.

Thanks,

Chris.
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Old 07-25-2004, 02:51 AM   #629
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These are Sanyo's CP 1700, 2/3 SubC size, so an 8cell pack has the same size as a 6cell SC pack.

The cells are good for 45-50A continous current and they can deliver 5min runtime with BL.
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Old 07-25-2004, 05:05 AM   #630
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Default SB Upgrades

By the 31st July, we will be selling upgrades for the SB. This will include the Kose style motor mount and Aluminium steering arms.

We will be selling these parts in the UK, but if there is intrest we will also sell ti the USA.

All the new parts will be tested at the Euros and they will then be available.

I will post the prices later this tomorrow.

Many thanks

Nick

Please dont hesitate to contact me with any further question.

[email protected]
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