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Old 07-21-2004, 05:55 PM   #601
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For sure on the lighter side, but I will put the parts on an ounce scale to be exact.
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Old 07-21-2004, 06:00 PM   #602
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Thats probably the only thing I hear from some circles is the vehicle is heavy, if it can lighten up a bit will be good off of big jumps so you don't bottom out so hard and don't have to run so stiff a suspension.

But thats a minor point. Loving my SB Buggy, Sport Edition ( like that better than SB Sport )
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Old 07-21-2004, 06:18 PM   #603
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Here are some prices of the items that Ultimate hobbies has in stock, prices for the hopups seems better than others:

First number is retail, then ultimate price. These are in stock!

ST-PO6 Carbon Center Shaft $26.00 $20.95
ST-P17 Carbon Upper Deck $35.00 $27.95
ST-T23 Carbon Front Upper Plate $30.00 $23.95
SB-019 Slipper Clutch $25.50 $20.95
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Old 07-21-2004, 07:01 PM   #604
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Hey Cain

If you Don't Hear from SpeedTechRC(Steve)for Some ODD Reason(Real Busy with orders and E-mails), I'll be by there Next Week Wednesday, and Hammer Him...hehehe I'd like to get one of these but unless some Major(in My Mind)issues are dealt with I'll stay away... But with the KOSE parts, No Problems...hahaha


Great Racing!!!

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Old 07-21-2004, 07:08 PM   #605
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bgotori: If the Kose doesn't come through, the aluminum mount will do the trick and is pretty cheap. 11 retail. If you want you can also wait for the pro, it may be out by the end of the summer with some nice upgrades on it. No specifics, but from what I understand, sounds like it will be pretty trick.
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Old 07-22-2004, 03:43 AM   #606
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A little trick to do with the cam motor mount is to drill the motor screw holes 90's out, this then pulls the motor tabs out into the open rather than either hidden under the top deck or under the motor.

The Kose motor mount is out of stock at the moment, but you can order them direct from Tokoyo hobbies.

As for the weight of the car, it doesn't feel heavy on the track, nd if there was ANYWHERE it could lose weight, it is from the rear, to try to unstick the backend, as it is so well planted....
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Old 07-22-2004, 05:25 AM   #607
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Considering the weight of the vehicle and how it performs, I can't wait to see what they come up with in the pro model!

my LHS got some parts in and a few of the kits that I believe were already prepaid for. So who knows, may see some more academy's out there next week!
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Old 07-22-2004, 06:36 PM   #608
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How do you figure the gear ratio on this thing?
I am looking for about a 9:1 or lower gearing.
I am running the 70 spur what pinion would I need?
I am currently running a 20 and it still thermals.

Thanks,

Chris.
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Old 07-22-2004, 07:50 PM   #609
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You can figure this gear ratio like any other.

'Driven Teeth' divided by 'Drive Teeth' is the rule.

You need to do this for each pair of gears, however. Then you multiply the results of the pairs to determine the overall ratio.

So in the case of the SB:

(Diff Gear Teeth / Drive Pinion Teeth) * [multiplied by] (Spur Gear Teeth / Motor Pinion Teeth)

NOTE: because the spur and drive pinion are on the same shaft, they have a 1:1 ratio and therefore do not need to be 'paired'.

Since I don't know what the tooth counts are, I can't tell you the ratio ... but as you see they are not hard to figure out.

'nuff said,
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Quote:
Originally posted by tmqdoc
How do you figure the gear ratio on this thing?
I am looking for about a 9:1 or lower gearing.
I am running the 70 spur what pinion would I need?
I am currently running a 20 and it still thermals.

Thanks,

Chris.
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Old 07-23-2004, 12:11 AM   #610
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Default Just look at the back page of your manual...

... you'll find a gear chart there

If you want to have 9:1 with a 70t spur, you'll have to use a 21t pinion (which is the one that comes stock I think)

the inner gear ratio of a stock (say ball diff equipped) SB Sport is 2,75:1

So to figure out any gearing:

Driven teeth/drive teeth * 2,75

in your case:
70/21 * 2,75 = 9,17 ( :1 )
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Old 07-23-2004, 06:04 AM   #611
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reinferno is on the money.

Hey guys, I got my slipper installed ( Thanks Tim!! ) . It feels pretty light, and the spurs that come with the kit from academy look to be made for the slipper pads as there are little grooves on the pads that hook into the spur.

Assembly of the slipper went well, without a hitch other than the normal alignment of the slipper pads to the spur. You will want another of those big bearings for the slipper as it comes with a metal bushing.

One thing I noticed at first was that the slipper when installed seemed to have alittle wobble to it. Not sure really why but you could see the shaft not moving uniform. Also, the slipper cup seems to not extend quite as far as the original drive cup. A tad shorter. You do however get another of those drive springs to use, so if you still got the one for original setup, pop it in on one side and the new one on the other and it locks up pretty well.

I plan to measure the length of the carbon fiber shaft compared to the stock unit , if it is slightly longer I may just buy it.

I also rebuilt the rear diff as it was very gritty compared to the front. That went well, flipping the diff and thrust rings went without a hitch though the rings other side was deeply groved, I think it was because of my tightening, so I took it easy this time.

I didn't replace my front diff cup yet, If they have it in stock, I will replace it and take a picture of the worn one. Those little units aren't cheap though. I think a pair is like $20 . The drive pin mod I have to look into trying though I will have to find someone who can do the machining.

Other than that the vehicle was in great shape. I went in spring size all around to test. So will see how that goes around the track.
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Last edited by Cain; 07-23-2004 at 09:07 AM.
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Old 07-23-2004, 08:00 AM   #612
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a note to the carbon shaft:

If im correct, it's basically a carbon tube with two aluminium cups glued to it that hold the drive pins.
So if you want to make your own longer driveshaft, there would be nothing easier to do than to start with the carbon shaft and replace the tube with a longer one and reglue it with CA/Epoxy etc.

Just a question concerning the gears: (ball diffs)
How long do they hold up? I don't only mean the time between diff rebuilds but also the lifespan of the crown/pinion.
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Old 07-23-2004, 08:31 AM   #613
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Mine have lasted a good few meetings with no sign of wear as yet, so I am guessing, built right, they should last ages.

Tip for when rebuilding the carbon prop, make sure that you refit the drive cups properly otherwise they wont rotate true and will make the shaft oscillate badly, ask any Tenth Technology owner when the cars first came out and you had to glue your own shafts.
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Old 07-23-2004, 08:39 AM   #614
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I just learned about this cool business (located in Midland Park, New Jersey, USA) that does custom small-run and one-off machining jobs. Check out their site at: http://www.emachineshop.com/

They have a custom CAD software that you can download for free and design your own components. The software is the most easy to use CAD program I have ever seen. Granted, it doesn't have the full power of AutoCAD but it is good enough. It is certainly fun to play with the software and see what you can create.

The idea is sooo very cool I just have to give 'em a plug. Enjoy.

'nuff said,
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Old 07-23-2004, 09:10 AM   #615
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Thanks for the info Yokomo-MX4. I am all set for tickets back to ND. so I may see you guys out there as I will try and swing by the shop. Not sure if I will bring the vehicle as the wife may be kind of taking up all the baggage room but I will give it a go if I can.

Can't wait to run my vehicle with this Vantage motor and the slipper. Will try and get there early and do some practice runs and see if the LHS has the diff cups so I can rebuild on Saturday or sunday.
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