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Old 07-16-2004, 01:04 PM   #556
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The Hop Up CVD won't come with a drive blade i believe.
I would be interested too if the conical CVD is relieable as far as driving the wheel goes (or if you have to retighten the wheel nuts every run etc..)
All I can say is it works great on the nitro engines.
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Old 07-17-2004, 11:55 AM   #557
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Hey Guys, just thought I would give you a race report here:

Info: There was a good turnout for 4wd buggy, all the vehicles running were 4wd buggy with everyone running from brushless to 13 x 1 vantage motors being the slowest ( assuming the novak brushless is equivalent to a 12 turn ) . Good drivers all around and all XXX-4s. Me putting around with the 19T power.

Practice: My setup was the same as last weeks initially. The track conditions however on the back straight were alittle dicey as there was loose soil on top but it was hard as a rock underneath. With no slipper and the current setup the rear would want to come around under hard acceleration. Slipper is on my list

Heat 1: I started in the last staggard start position but the acceleration of this vehicle is so amazing that I was quickly shot right up there with the leaders. I decided to take it conservative and towards the mid of the race several racers had to drop out to due to various issues, some brakages I think with there XXX-4s. After it was all said and done I managed to finish first .

Pre-heat work: The rear did come around on me twice, so I went to move the inner shock position in the rear bottom in one and I also went to slightly stiffer rear spring, so I was now running silver all around so I could get alittle fast suspension action.

Heat 2: I started this time in the first position and had another great holeshot. The vehicle this time felt a bit better on the slick sections, with the whoops being the tough spot. I did have some errors but still kept it in the race and managed to finish 3rd.

Pre-main: I managed to qualify in the second position. I decided to change the antisquat at this time and also go back to my green ( softer ) springs in the rear.

Main: All drivers were ready for this one. The leader is a very good driver with a brushless power plant. I bobbled in the first turn so I ended up in the back of the pack coming up to the first table top jump. I managed however to squeeze through and take a small lead, throughout the race it was a battle for second as I didn't have the power to really keep up with the leader and his driving skills are very good too. The vehicle however with its current setup turned very well in the tight sections and was great over the jumps. It was still slightly loose on the rear straight but much better than before. Definitely a slipper here would do the trick. I managed to fight through and finish 2nd in the race even though after the massive table top jump I thought I broke an arm, pulled off, but it was fine, so I lost some time there. All around great racing by the 4wd class!

No breakage this time around. The vehicle held together quite well. One thing I did notice is one side of my front wheels I could crank it down more than the other with no binding. I am going to look and see why that is.

I have also noticed that on one side of my front diff drive cups I am getting excessive wear and will probably pickup a set of diff cups soon. I also have some wear on the drive shaft front rear cup.

Other than this and having to re adjust the motor mount after every race ( it moved slightly ) the vehicle performed marvelously. I am quite happy with it performance.

Few questions here:

I am thinking of getting the slipper and front oneway. What will I notice when I drive my 4 Wheeler when I run the front one way?

Whats a good gearing point for a 12 x 2 Vantage / Revolution motor?

Anyone know of a tire that is in between an IFMAR pin and a IFMAR Stud? It almost seems like bowties all around on the track would hookup great.

I tell you guys, To sum it all up though, the buggy is for real, plain and simple.
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Last edited by Cain; 07-17-2004 at 12:07 PM.
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Old 07-17-2004, 12:05 PM   #558
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Hey ThreeEwes!

From what I understand you can or know someone who can do some machining? Do you think you may be able to machine some steering cranks / arms for the Academy? I went ahead and went to the longer ballstud mount position on the arms for more steering and it really did the trick but the flex in the arms is alittle bit noticeable now. Some stiffer material would be great.
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Old 07-17-2004, 12:13 PM   #559
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OK, that sounds like a good result there Cain, although, by what you say of the track, and that you are not struggling for steering, a one-way isn't needed, maybe the rear roll bar kit with the softest bar. And yes the slipper will help it punch out the corners a lot better.

As for the Diff outdrive wear, we have been having this issue in he UK for the past 6 weeks, I have fitted, as you know, stainless steel drive pins in he axle to go into the diff outdrive, they are easy to do, just cut some 2mm round bar up into 12mm lengths (1/2" inch), grind one side of the old pin out, the tap it through, then fit the new one. if it is a little loose, hit the driveshaft end up and it is sorted.
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Old 07-17-2004, 12:15 PM   #560
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Great idea with the machining but I am not inclined on that, computer programmer here!

With my driving style I kind of like to left of the power and roll through the turns, I heard the front oneway would help me do this? Maybe someone can post a rundown on how a front one way works on a 4wd buggy.

I think our track may be a bit bumpy to run a sway bar, I will check though as I think another XXX-4 driver was running one.
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Old 07-17-2004, 02:14 PM   #561
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you should be able to by the bar in 2mm diameter size anyway Cain.

The sway bar should h=let you run the car a little softer on the rear to help it put the power down coming out of the tight corners.
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Old 07-17-2004, 03:47 PM   #562
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I'll look into the steering...I'm just waiting on the template motor mount to arrive before we start that

Good job racing Cain!
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Old 07-17-2004, 03:55 PM   #563
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Can I Ask you, before you put a lot of effort into machining some alloy steering arms, there are a couple of things we are going to try here in the UK, as the grass tracks realy load up the steering.

Hopefully, it will use some stock steering parts from the Academy catalogue, which are mucho stiff, I got them in my hand right now. Steering posts for them are to come, and I got to knock a new top deck up to hold them, and that should also make things a lot stiffer too.
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Old 07-17-2004, 06:46 PM   #564
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Default Some info about '1 ways' in a 4WD ...

First let it be known that there are generally two different 'types' of 1-way systems. Let's call them 'Driveline One-Way' and 'Front Diff One-Way' ... I do not know if there are more official names. It seems the names vary by car & manufacturer.

A 'Driveline One-Way' is always located between the spur and front diff. These are generally just a 1-way bearing that allows the drivetrain to the front wheels to 'free wheel' when off power. The usual front (ball or gear) diff is retained.

A 'Front Diff One-Way' is (as the name implies) located at (or 'inside') the front diff. These generally consist of two 1-way bearings, one for each drive cup. This type of 1-way does not provide any 'diff action' and is somewhat like a spool (front solid axle) when on-power.

Basically what any 1-way will provide to a 4WD is smoother 'low speed' cornering. Of course there are disadvantages too. Most notably, you only have a 2WD car (rear only) when under breaking. This can make the car more susceptible to spin outs when under breaking. This is one primary reason that 1-ways are generally not a good idea on lose or slippery tracks. A 1-way on a high-bite track will definitely improve cornering ability.

Additionally, a 1-way system will affect any offroad car's mid-air control. It can take some time to get the feel of not having full throttle/break control of the front wheels when in the air.

Some 4WD on-road cars (and potentially off-road) can run 'double one-way' setups. This is of course a combo of a 'front diff one-way' and 'driveline one-way'. I've never seen the need for such a setup, but it is possible and has been done.

'nuff said,
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Old 07-17-2004, 08:12 PM   #565
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Funny thing is I don't use brakes and I am used to 2wd offroad more so than 4wd offroad, so I think a one-way may work out for me. Thanks for the info though as I was really confused about this and I get alot of info more so on the diff side of the one-way option.

How is racing in ND working out, you doing any 4 wheeling? Got another interview with Noridian in Fargo, so will see what happens.
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Old 07-18-2004, 03:26 AM   #566
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The one-way for the shaft is bullet proof, I can vouch for that. As for braking, in 2wd I very rarely use brakes, and when I do, it is just to scrub off a little speed, not a lot, but in 4wd, you can realy slam on the anchors, on the grass tracks, as long as you are pointing straight, braking doesn't reaky affect the car with one way raollers in.
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Old 07-18-2004, 05:39 AM   #567
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DA_cookie_monst, can you give further information about the new steering arms?
Will they be available to the public soon or just for team drivers?

I too race a lot on grass tracks and would like to see a stiffer steering.

My ideas so far
- Steering rack of the RT4GP together with a new top deck that holds the bushings for the posts just a 10-12mm higher.
- Direct fit alloy steering rack.

Both mean some serious effort which won't be worth it, when there's already a steering upgrade on its way or so...
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Old 07-18-2004, 06:49 AM   #568
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The steering upgrade we are trying is using the steering arms of the VXB nitro buggy, they are quite a bit stiffer, but it would need the new top deck, I am in the process of mapping out the sizes so I can make at least two top decks. The parts are far stiffer than the SB items, but there may be an option to make them stiffer again with the use of some araldite and carbon fibre dust, lol.
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Old 07-18-2004, 07:18 AM   #569
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Well looks like you need something like my extended top deck with the shape of the stock upper front plate in the front section then.

If you want to, I can do a little drawing. (or you can just use mine for the drill holes and add the 8mm holes where they belong to)

Does the VXB use the same steering arms like the RT-4GP or are there again some differences in geometry?
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Old 07-18-2004, 07:32 AM   #570
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The geometry appears to be the same as the SB, but they have added bracing on them and seem to be out of a different material.
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