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Old 07-15-2004, 05:16 PM   #541
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Some are running B4 shocks, others are running XXX4 G+ shocks, some are running B4 shocks with longer rear shafts.

Me personaly are running the stock shocks, got the alloy ones to build up, just waiting on some shock seals at the moment. Also, I will be running the Teflon pistons, modified with three holes in four different sizes.

From what I have seen of the XXX4 G+, and any yokomo with Graphite wishbones, it tends to make the front end VERY prone to breakages, as the Graphite, although making the plastic stiffer, has a trade of in making the wishbone more brittle. There is always some trade off somewhere along the line.

I think the price WILL reflect the 'not having' graphite parts, and I think for the club/regional and on a budget national driver, will make a lot of sense, and I think it will also prove that you DON'T actualy need all these graphite parts to be competitive.
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Old 07-15-2004, 05:18 PM   #542
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DaCookieMonsta: Who would you say is Academy's best driver right now? Anyone on the level of say a Billy Easton or around the ball park?
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Old 07-15-2004, 05:41 PM   #543
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Tim sent me the PDF of the slipper clutch they have in stock now.

If anyone wants it just send me your email address.
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Old 07-16-2004, 01:17 AM   #544
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The best UK driver at the moment is David Snee, I think more would run it, but stand to loose a lot of tied in sponsorship I guess, as for the States, I don't know who is running it.

The longer the car runs over here, the more people are being swayed.
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Old 07-16-2004, 02:17 AM   #545
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Perhaps you might know about the new Velox XB buggy which is basically an SB-Sport gas engine version.

Nothing special, Academy did that to the RT4-GP too to a certain amount.

BUT:

I found the assembly manual at the korean website:
Code:
http://www.academy.co.kr/kr2/admin/pds/upload/04-07-14-07-07-43_1.pdf
please take your time, look carefully through the assembly and note

- the Schumacher "blade" style thing, that is attached to the dogbone to minimize wear and make the dogbone run as true as a CVD.
- the way, the wheel hex is attached to the axle and the (positive!) consequences which go far beyond hex shaft elimination
- the rear hub setup

I think (and hope!) that we can expect MUCH more from the SB-Pro instead of just a graphite & alloy package, that is already available as seperate tuning options
Academy could just go with the RT-4 parts (which are the same as the STR-4 and SB-Sport ones) for the gas buggy. Instead, they rather changed a lot in the suspension department ... prototype parts for the pro to see how they hold up to nitro power?

BTW: does somebody know what's up with raceacademy.net?
Got a strange email a few days ago and the sites responds with a "400 bad request error"
Or is it just my computer?

Last edited by re-inferno; 07-16-2004 at 04:05 AM.
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Old 07-16-2004, 03:04 AM   #546
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Code:
http://www.academy.co.kr/kr2/admin/pds/upload/04-07-13-09-57-52_1.pdf
Even more to come - scroll down to the tuning parts.

Tough a 10mm wheel axle seems overkill, it could be made from light alloy (the protective "blade" on the dogbone suggests that)

The wheel hex is attached via conical surface (like you mount the flywheel to the crankshaft of a gas engine) which could provide perfect true spinning and zero play.

I think Academy is really getting serious to create the most innovative racing buggy seen in recent years when the parts will also be included with the PRO Version.

As soon as the parts become available, I might do some upgrading on my SB-Sport.
Can't resist using axles where I can never loose a hex pin again

Last edited by re-inferno; 07-16-2004 at 04:04 AM.
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Old 07-16-2004, 05:27 AM   #547
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OK, I have had a look at what you have said, and there are some possibilities going on in there.

The one thing that is a try it and see would be the blades for the driveshafts, as the stock VXB comes with dogbones all round and the blade is designed to go into the stub axle and not the diff outdrive, which is where we would like to try it.
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Old 07-16-2004, 05:57 AM   #548
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rc10t3--Go with losi shocks for the car.They are easier to build and are proven to handle rough stuff and bigger jumps better.The car doesnt BOUNCE as much.
I ran the B4,T4 for a long time(Liking losi better) but I tried them with losi shocks like I use to run on my OLD RC10GT.
The B4,T4 jumped better and the shocks are easier to build for better consistancy.
You need to make sure the length of the shocks are the same as the stock units making sure you have the right DROOP.
Nobody from academy at this time is close to the level of the top american driver's.
Being Associated doesnt have a true deal with Yoke about running 4wd maybe one of them will run it.
Guess we will see later this year and next.
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Old 07-16-2004, 06:25 AM   #549
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I got a message on another board that there is a sponsored US driver for MRC / Academy who ran for associated for 7 years. So if its true then we may see more sponsored guys running Academy.

As for Losi vs AE Shocks, I prefer AE shocks. Never had an issue with them and were easier to assemble. Losi's just seem to leak all the time for me but its personal preference. Either will do the job.

I am glad that there are innovations that could be used on the buggy. Considering how well it performs now, can't wait to see what they come up with for the pro. Even if the Pro has graphite and alloy, with it current performance now in its sport form, I can image how it will be in a pro form.
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Old 07-16-2004, 06:30 AM   #550
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Graphite isn't all it is cracked up to be, it is brittle and can in a lot of cases, detract from the handling of the car, if the part is deisgned correctly ion the first place, there should be no issue.

As for things like shock towers, a little give in them is needed otherwise the stress forces caused on landing will be transferred to more vital components causing possible breakages.
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Old 07-16-2004, 06:41 AM   #551
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I have used graphite parts before, full graphite kits as a matter of fact so I am no stranger to its ups and downs.

The thing is that people who purchase a pro level kit in the US depending on the price may expect to have stiffer suspension parts. I am not saying this is a good thing, but it is something to consider.
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Old 07-16-2004, 07:06 AM   #552
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Due to this car being a radical departure to the current trends, and being a mass produced shaft drive, that otherwise you would have to have a bits and pieces car, like the BJ 4x4, people will either buy it and love it, or not buy it.

There is the same issue over here, but as the car is making the top 20 comfortably at National level in the Sport form, then the car is on the right tracks. It could do with a little weight loss, and a slightly stiffer chassis (Carbon Fibre) but the wishbones are just as stiff as those on my B4.

They would be far better getting titanium hinge pins and lighter screws in the kit than graphite suspension parts. The weight would make a greater difference to the cars abillity to drive than stiffer arms.
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Old 07-16-2004, 10:07 AM   #553
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I took a look at the damage I did to my 19T motor from last weeks running. The think looked new. Like I just broke it in. no overheating or anything.

Didn't get a chance to do a full tear down. But I did notice alittle wear on the rear drive shaft cup. I put some more spacers to put the shaft more into that side. Strange. Does anyone know if the shafts are a bit longer in the carbon version?
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Old 07-16-2004, 10:19 AM   #554
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the new universals (SB-16) are a bit bigger at the dog bone style end.
(in a 0,1-0,05mm range)

Less slop and almost no play may perhaps solve the wearing issues.

I use the RG-039 Diff Outdrives, they are much harder than the stock outdrives and don't show any sign of wear yet - sadly, the< cannot be used with the ball diff.

But perhaps the pin cover, the VXB uses, can also be used on the diff side? Would be nice!
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Old 07-16-2004, 10:40 AM   #555
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We wil have to wait and see as to whether or not the Drive Blade can be used, I have a set of the VXB CVD's on order so I shall let you know. The ones that come in the kit are different to the hop ups by the looks. The only issue I can see is maybe the axle spinning and not driving the wheel if it uses a conical way of drive, whereas the dog bone axle actualy has a physical drive.
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