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Old 07-06-2004, 09:50 AM   #451
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Thanks for the info everyone. The kit was not put together very well.Lots of binding,Grease on the bearings which attracted lots of dirt etc.Just finished most of the rebuild,much smoother now.As for the dogbones,one thing I noticed.The shocks,at full extension,seem to create a big angle between the outdrive and the axles.Seems to create lots of binding there.Not a problem at ride height,but in the air could be a problem.Will try limiters for this weekend. Re-inferno,no bashing,just racing. The springs were just an emergency fix at the track as we had one dogbone chewed up.The old associated bones used springs so thats what came to mind.Thanks for the earplug tip,should be a much better fix.Might go with the cv's anyway tho.Will post more on the gearing after this weekend.Cain,am running the integy 19 turns.The dual magnet ones. Might try a mod too.We'll see how it does against my Cat.(Schumacher).lolThanks again for a great thred.Will post on the other sites when time permits.Mario.
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Old 07-06-2004, 01:58 PM   #452
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I thought I'll post the dimensions of the axle shaft in case someone wants to get his own ones machined till Academy has a solution.

http://www.offroad-cult.org/Forum/im...40705/axle.gif

I didn't have a chance to verify the axial dimensions yet, but the axle won't be too short, rather 0,1mm or so too long, so you just need another shim

I'll measure the overall length tomorrow and if it corresponds with the section lenghts added together, it should resemble the stock axle. Otherwise I'll revise it.

The only change i made was to decrease the inner diameter from 8,1 to 8,0mm so that should eliminate some play from the CVD coupling (which is like 7,8 or 7,9mm)

note that ">2,0mm" means that the hole should accept a 2mm shaft moving with no binding and no play, so you'll actually end up with a 2,01mm hole or so...


DA_cookie_monst

I understand your point, but I currently don't have more play in the axles than in my other cars, so I'm not worried.
The problem with the spacer is, that you might overload the small 10x5 bearing and cause premature failure.
I think it would be better to make a spacer that joins together the inner races of the 10x5 and the 15x10 which means that the spacer has to be conical from 7mm outer diameter up to 12mm.

Then you'd have a bullet proof bearing/axle combination.

Last edited by re-inferno; 07-06-2004 at 02:06 PM.
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Old 07-06-2004, 03:37 PM   #453
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The bearing only gets stressed when, tightenning down on the wheel, it tries to pull the two bearings together, the outer race hits the moulding stop, the inner race wants to carry on, thus the bearing is stressed. The spacer just means that there is no pressure on the outer race, which is just free to sit there and be in line with the inner race.
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Old 07-06-2004, 03:58 PM   #454
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Cain:

The next motor to be tested is team orion 12x2 chrome 13/14/15/ pinion -76 spur

The revolution 10x2 ran awesome on our local track-no overheating with 15p-70s
the 16p-warm-ran good
the 17p-warmer-can handle it ok
the 18p-absolutely the biggest I would run with this motor-Risk damaging motor

Other motor I've picked from ebay UK is a team orion chrome 10x1 can wait to get my mitts on it!

I talked to my friend (the master machinist) and we can get the carbon fiber sheet 10'x 20' for 58 bucks. Were going to duplicate the chassis top bottom and steering plate. I'm just waiting on the spurs I ordered to come in and we will get those going.
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Old 07-07-2004, 05:45 AM   #455
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Quote:
Originally posted by threeEwes
Cain:

The next motor to be tested is team orion 12x2 chrome 13/14/15/ pinion -76 spur

The revolution 10x2 ran awesome on our local track-no overheating with 15p-70s
the 16p-warm-ran good
the 17p-warmer-can handle it ok
the 18p-absolutely the biggest I would run with this motor-Risk damaging motor

Other motor I've picked from ebay UK is a team orion chrome 10x1 can wait to get my mitts on it!

I talked to my friend (the master machinist) and we can get the carbon fiber sheet 10'x 20' for 58 bucks. Were going to duplicate the chassis top bottom and steering plate. I'm just waiting on the spurs I ordered to come in and we will get those going.
So you were able to run a 15T pinion on the 70T Spur? I thought it would be too small. hmm. Can you post what you think a gearing chart should look like then? Have you tried drilling any holes in the body for cooling?

If I had the machining ability, I would love to get a chassis in red graphite, similar to how BMI makes TC3 colored chassis. I would love to get him to make one for the SB with his motor mounting system.
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Old 07-07-2004, 06:19 AM   #456
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funny this, I would actualy start the gearing of the 10x2 on at least a 19 tooth pinion, maybe going up to a 20 or a 21, and just stroking the throttle and keeping the corner speed up. Gear it too low and you risk over heating it anyway.

If heat is a problem, fit a small fan and force cool the motor.
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Old 07-07-2004, 07:17 AM   #457
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Anyone planning on going to the US Stock Nationals?

I would like to see some reports of the academy against the competition. Since there are no team drivers in the US for the Academy as far as I know of, should ge a good feel of how it performs in the hands of the common person.

Anyone know who Academy's top driver is right now? Is he or she on the level of say a Greg Hodapp and those guys?
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Old 07-07-2004, 11:04 AM   #458
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Da Cookie monster-

To run a 20-21 pinion on the track where I go it too much-way....too hot for the revolution-one of the techs at orion was explaining to me that I can gear this down 2 teeth safely. So for me 18-19 would work too...I prefer to be running 16, 17...The whole heat thing is overblown sometimes too because all the motors heat up any way!

I like the idea of the fan.

Cain :

15, 16 is with the 76, 78 spurs (modified spurs)
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Last edited by threeEwes; 07-07-2004 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 07-07-2004, 11:12 AM   #459
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How large is the track? Depending on the size I can see this making a difference.

What I noticed when running a small ( micro sized basically ) track with a 19T motor is that gearing makes the world of difference.

I usually gear so I top out at the end of the longest straight, which I was used to about 50 ft for bashing. on this track I don't think the straight was greater than 20 ft. I had to drop down about 5 pinion sizes to have the motor perform properly.

So I can see when thinking about it more how you could be running the gearing sizes you are in the UK vs what ThreeEwes is finding. I actually thought my vehicle was undergeared slightly at my local track when running a 21 tooth pinion and 67 tooth spur.
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Old 07-07-2004, 11:20 AM   #460
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Chris Mills will testify, some of the tracks, even gearing low, you run out of room before the motor tops out, but to gear it down burns the comm, gear it up, it gets warm, yes, but far less comm wear.

Remember, you got to have some heat there to let the lube in the brush flow.
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Old 07-07-2004, 11:21 AM   #461
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Our local dirt track is small, tight and technical. The straight must be under 40' .Its actually more like a washboard all the way down. To open up the car here one would lose a lot of power because of the washboard. You know -I'll take some photos of the track and post them here!
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Old 07-07-2004, 11:26 AM   #462
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Sounds like a track worth running a 19t super stock motor.
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Old 07-07-2004, 12:08 PM   #463
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a good torquey 19T sounds like it could do well there. Maybe the Orion Element / Peak Dynasty or the Reedy Quad Mag 19T Spec Motor?

I run at this track:

www.wolcotthobby.com

Its pretty big and lots of fun. Nice guys there all around. I just have to get used to people running full mod alot there. I run my 19T as I feel comfortable with it, but when I get serious into 4wd buggy, full mod or novak brushless setup is pretty much it right now.

I think that will be the one thing that would take me out of running 4wd is not feeling competitive against the mod guys. that 2wd buggy 19T class looks pretty fun and I know I can handle that fine.
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Old 07-07-2004, 06:42 PM   #464
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I run the kit pinion and the biggest kit spur.
Motor - Novak SS 5800
GP 3300 6 cells (plan to take off the tray and strap tape 7 cell packs in)

I cooled mine first by drilling holes but eventually cutting away the smaller portion of the body in front of the steering servo. I also carefully did the wiring as to leave the heat sinks over the ESC unobstructed to air flow. I also run a small computer fan just between the ESC and the drive shaft (I wanted to mount it in front of the ESC to cool it better but then to remove the motor I would have to undo everything; nevertheless, if it overheats on warm days I may go with that). I power the fan with a 9V battery mounted on the upper portion of the top chassis. I would like to wire it directly if it wouldn't hurt performance. Does anyone know how to do this?

BTW, I also cut out the top 1-2cm of the windshield.

Still gets warm in this humid weather but much better. I'll check back to see if anyone has any other ideas or knows of a better way to wire the fan.

Thanks,

Chris.
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Old 07-07-2004, 07:35 PM   #465
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Running up and down the sidewalk and through the grass the above setup thermals the motor and shuts down. However, the ESC stays much cooler. I may just need to do a velcro setup with the esc in front of the motor closer so the fan can fit in front and then easily move it when removing the motor. I'll update when I test again.

Also, two of the stock shocks are leaking badly. I have the Evader kit shocks coming. I will see how they do.

Also, what are you guys running for tires on the outdoor track, loose dirt?
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