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Old 07-03-2004, 02:01 PM   #421
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Yeah, the axles are going to be a sore spot.

Is there a reason why you run UJs up front on 4wd vehicles even when they are sport vehicles?

As for the cam, I don't run the shim in there, but I also don't crank it down anything rediculous either. I may try putting a smaller shim in and give it a go to see how I like it.
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Old 07-03-2004, 04:08 PM   #422
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The reason being, in the front, a lot more pressure is put on the drive joint, with the suspension moving up and down and also with the steering, it can put the angle of drive through quite a bit, with dog bones, there is for more drag and wear involved.
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Old 07-03-2004, 11:00 PM   #423
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I Just tried it; dogbones don't work in the front of the car.
While steering to the max. the dogbone of the inner tyre will fall out or at least bind a lot, so no solution there.
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Old 07-03-2004, 11:18 PM   #424
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Re inferno-

Thats interesting that You said the dogbones in the front didnt work because I was set up that way my car runs fine-
Did you put the small piece of fuel tubing in the outdrive hub where your regular black dog bones are going?
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Old 07-04-2004, 12:11 AM   #425
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Yes.
It just doesn't work for me.

Either the dogbone falls out (no fuel tubing) or it binds very heavy (although the dogbone still has some axial play)
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Old 07-04-2004, 07:50 AM   #426
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Well mine is done.
I haven't had it at the track because of all the rain here. I am sure they will be working on it though as the Kyosho Challenge starts Wednesday.

I thought I would pass on some of my experience building this and some modifications I did.

Concerning the body. I did drill three holes in the front on the slanted portion and cut
out the top 1cm of the windshield as well as the back portion behind the battery and the motor. Hopefully this will help with cooling. My T4 thermalled several times the other day in the heat. I would think this thing would be worse the way the stock body did not have much air flow.

Couple other tips:

The motor mount really worked well for my Novak SS5800. You just have to play with it a little.

A word to new builders. When assembling shocks, place tape over the threaded portion of the shaft when slipping on the O-rings. This way you will be less likely to cut one and have a leak.

I found the battery holder works great for hand assembled gp3300 side by side packs. I put a little velvet sticky on the bottom of the holder (from my emaxx) and it works well.

I tried to dye the wing. I know it's plastic but I scuffed it with steel wool and tried to dye it black with the wheels with Rit dye. It came out a nice medium to light blue. So I bought a Pro-Line 1/8 scale wing and it fit and looks great (it is still narrower than mid point of the tires).

This thing really puts the power to the ground. With that in mind I recommend Losi thin tire glue to avoid problems later.

My kit was short 4 turnbuckle ends. I used rpm ones for my T4 and they worked great. This means you can buy the dyeable ones and customize yourself.

I did purchase the B4 turnbuckle kit and they work well.

For those that don't like the idea of the body attachment, I may have a fix. I think there is room to attach a flat composite piece on the sides, at least from the back to the position of the servo (it is too tight with the servo I have to go forward here) to velcro and mount the body too with out the bottom piece. The bottom piece setup just seems home-made and not well done. Just a little running in front of the house (admittedly without the upper body on) and it was full of debris.

The front universals bind alot on mine when fully tight so I just used thread lock and loosened them a little. If this doesn't keep them together I will try a very small drop of CA and see if that works. I will check here for others input.

My kit came with not only a spring but a plastic spacer for the center shaft. I found this worked well if I pressed the shaft away from the corresponing diff as I was tightening it.

When assembling the steering mechanism make sure the servo screw is tight. Otherwise you will be dissamssembling it to tighten it. I did.

Also, on anything that swivelled or spun around something, I used dry lube. This seemed to help on the steering and the c-hubs.

The Hexes: I love these hexes. I filed them down just enough so they would barely fit. This is great. Now they won't fall off like the stampede. Would be a better setup if they were like the rears on the T4. But then again I have to drive those in and out everytime I remove them. That is a pain also. So I like them just the way they are.

Some of these things may seem simple to the advanced builder but this was my first build and I wanted to help anyone else doing the same.

Couple questions?

I don't have the inner axle bearings. Is it worth it just to replace the outers? I hate to order just the inners and pay shipping. I was going to wait until I need some other things.

Anyone else running the Novak and if so what pinion and spur are you using?

I hope this will turn out to be a great buggy at the track.

Thanks for all the great info on this thread everyone.

Chris.
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Old 07-04-2004, 08:03 AM   #427
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If you are bashing, then the bearings are up to you, if you are going to stick it on the track, then I suggest you purchase the 15x10x4 and the 10x5x4 bearings for each hub.

The binding issue of the driveshaft, I have resolves, click HERE, later, when I have dismantled the hub assembly, I will post the dimensions for you to make your own.
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Old 07-04-2004, 08:56 AM   #428
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With the dimensions we may be able to find something that will do the job that is already out there. If you get pics please post as well.

I got an initial gearing chart up a few pages back based on some gearing feedback . I think it may be a decent starting point, you will still have to check for yourself though.

can't wait to run mine this coming friday when my axles and all comes in. I may even go up tuesday if they come in and practice.
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Old 07-04-2004, 09:01 AM   #429
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I will try to take a pic, but I got an old digi cam, and it strugles to focus on small items, due to it having an autofocus......

All it is realy is a sleeve to stop the bearings being able to be put into shear.
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Old 07-04-2004, 11:19 AM   #430
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Here is a pic of my front right hub...I havent had any binding. You have to trim the tubing back just enough to fill the space but dont leave it so long to force the dogbone back the other way...
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Old 07-04-2004, 11:45 AM   #431
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Heres another pic-
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Last edited by threeEwes; 07-04-2004 at 05:21 PM.
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Old 07-04-2004, 05:24 PM   #432
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Another view
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Old 07-04-2004, 05:25 PM   #433
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78 tooth B4 prototype
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Old 07-04-2004, 05:27 PM   #434
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The top is a 70t sport spur
the bottom is 76 spur for XX4

Its gonna work!
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Old 07-06-2004, 05:16 AM   #435
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Nice Job ThreeEwes. Looking forward to seeing what gearing you use for your motors.

What motors do you plan to run and test?

I got another person also looking to see if anywhere in the US can get your Kose parts. If I can't get it though, I may look into the machined cam as some have recommended.
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